Detailing a Defender

Looking for input on best practices to bring paint back closest to original. I have always admired the pale Portifino Red on my 97nas but a rear panel that was resprayed after a friend backed into it many years ago just won't fade to match the rest of the truck.

Tools, products, methods, especially what not to do, etc. are all welcome. Thanks!
 
 

evilfij

Well-known member
A simple orbital buffer (I think I bought the porter cable) and the polish of your choice will work wonders. And then two years later it will faded out again unless it is garaged.
 

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A simple orbital buffer (I think I bought the porter cable) and the polish of your choice will work wonders...

Wow. what paint process did Rover use..single stage, non clear coat on Portifino Red? Maybe that'd help with what to polish with. I also hear no wax.
 
I thought all Defenders were single stage paint..


ECR, "Before and nearly After on this 1995 NAS Defender 90 Wagon we have been working on. The roof and hood were repainted, the rest is old paint that we corrected, saving the customer the cost of a paint job."
 

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evilfij

Well-known member
Beluga Black is clear coated. I believe British Racing Green is clean coated too, and I think Willow Green is clear, but I am not 100% on those. Portofino is not clear coated, ares, conniston, alpine white, AA Yellow are not clear coated. I am 100% on all of those as they are single stage. You can see on my truck the doors I swapped with repainted clear coated ones and the fenders were repainted with clear. This is why I detest body work, it may look ok when you get it back from a body shop, but it becomes obvious over time. Just like the ECR truck pictured above.

I see no reason not to wax single stage paint, but to say I know anything about detailing would be wrong. I posted only to show it is easy to make it look much better with a simple polish. I think I did a two stage with chemical guys, but honestly one step will be fine. It’s not a Ferrari.

One thing I can recommend in addition to very high quality carnival wax (the expensive stuff) is

Turtle Wax 53409 Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating​

It is $16 on Amazon. It works and lasts quite a long time and it’s easy to use. Just don’t use too much of it. A little goes a LONG way. If I ever wash and detail a car again, I will use it again. I was very happy with it, it was much easier than carnunba (I forget what I got but it was the super expensive stuff the Porsche people like).

So to summarize, get an orbital buffer (not a rotary), use a medium ish foam pad, use a good polish, and coat with the cheap turtle wax and she will be Ron Good (R).

This is what I used. I am sure there are better, cheaper, more expensive things that do the same thing, but avoid a rotary you will burn the paint. Haha.

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evilfij

Well-known member
I have confirmed British Racing Green and Willow Green are clear coat like Beluga Black.
 
First you’ll need to clean it very well. There’s lots of info out there on pre-polish cleaning. Basically, you don’t want to be rubbing contaminants into the paint.

I recommend this buffer for its precise rpm control, low rpm ability (for buffing newbs and general control), multiple pad sizes/extension for the many difficult to buff areas, and the variety of included pads.

You have a lot of oxidation to remove, so I’d start with wool pads and 3D ACA 510. It’ll cut fast so keep the rpm low and watch your edges. Then I’d move on to a finishing polish like ACA520 on foam pads. I like the 3D products because they cut fast, give a great finish, and have no fillers that hide what you’re trying to remove.

Afterward I’d wash the truck again and apply a synthetic wax or ceramic coating.
 
Thanks all for the input. It'll surely help those of us who rarely touched their paint with anything other than a garden hose.

Great info to get going on this.
 
A common issue when polishing is pad load up. Cleaning the pads often keeps them working efficiently. They load up fast when cutting fast. I like to keep a garden sprayer and compressed air line handy. When a pad is dirty, I run it at low RPM while spraying it with water at point blank. Then I run up the RPM to max and blow air into it. There are also special tools such as this:

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Received my compound and polish (& ceramic wash). Hand buffed a test patch..very excited to see how this turns out. The truck was detailed only once in 2015 but other than that, it's only known a garden hose in the last 25 years.

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Original paint (99MY)… hand wash, clay blocked, orbital polish, hand buffed, ceramic coat two years ago. Took about eight hours in total. Done nothing since other than wash it. And yes I drive it daily all year. If you want a nice looking paint job ya gotta take care of it! 👌🏻

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If I spent two hours that was a lot. But doing it by hand would be karate kid level hard. Enjoy.
Ha, ya that'd be overkill here. I'm at the bottom of a rabbit hole researching buffers..somehow I always find myself upstream on my tools. I know others here can relate.😄
 
Moving slow as usual but finally started detailing the NAS90 today after amassing all the necessary gear. So far I washed with 3D Ultimate glw series and clay barred.

I then buffed with 3D's ACA 500 x-tra cut compound with a foam pad for the first pass. I may go with a more aggressive pad as there are still scratches and water marks but first impressions are that this is going to work out well. Can't wait for the end result.


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