Aftermarket Wheel Options for 110/130?
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MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
For those that are unaware of the importance of centering the wheel (or proper torque of studs) there are two important reasons. The first being balance/vibrations. Tiny bit off, you’ll notice when driving. The WAY more important thing is slipping even the small amount on things like hard breaking can literally shear all the studs off as happened to Bob here in Moab. That’s a difficult field fix. I actually built my off road pop up trailer using a DOM axle tube that I welded LR ends on so I have hubs, discs bearings…all LR axle components (including lr hydraulic disc brakes) as spares if needed. I can always leave the trailer and drive out to get help.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
What I'm noticing here is that the wheel does not have tapered seats over the studs. Which means it requires it to be hub centric located. Even if you had tapered lugs It wouldn't matter.
All great info for people looking at this wheel. It's kind of a privilege even that they're making this thing for how low volume it is
Also a great looking wheel. I am leaning on these for the Tith(including the spare), just to save some weight and these will also bring the tires out a bit more, but not much.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I have always loved that wheel if I was to ever go back to Aluminum.... which I won't do.
dkemm
Well-known member
If you question was to me....
I ended up purchasing a single wheel to measure / test.
I ended up purchasing another 4 of the Black Rhino Ravine
they are 17x8.5 - and are hub centric wheels as the alloy nuts dont center the wheel to the hub.
roadworn
New member
While I applaud the posting "aftermarket Wheels for 110/130" Its totally misleading if your using wheel spacers/adaptors, as you can put 100s of different wheels on using adaptors and spacers. It would be great if we could come up with a difinitive list of Aftermarket wheels that bolt right up to a pre 2006 defender with 4 wheel disc's. I know lots of people use the adaptors succesfully and they do give you many options, but their not for everyone for a number of reasons. The balck Rhinos are cool if they bolted right up to the axles unless im missing something here you are using spacers correct.
dkemm
Well-known member
Roadworn, you are correct about the spacers. I believe most aftermarket wheel offsets are designed for spacer...but not positive.
The Black Rhinos that I have are Rover bolt pattern - so theoretically could bolt right up....I dont know about clearance / offset issues (also dictated by the width of tire you want to run).
I believe the OP was looking for custom "adapters" to be able to run jeep wheels (greater selection / options) on a rover pattern.
I am using the TF301's - as I have drum rears (1988 Ninety).
I did also upgrade axle shafts to 24spline to match the ATB diffs and changed to HD members to eliminate the rubber grease seals.
PS.. I am in ABQ
rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
Love these wheels. They’d look pretty awesome on a 130. https://www.defendersource.com/threads/4-new-zu-rims.154572/
One consideration may be if a replacement wheel can be found in the future. Designer wheels may be a perfect expression of one's individuality, but road hazards are indiscriminate.
I've been looking for a spare O.Z. Rally Race. Current production is different style and not available in 16". These wheels were common on rally cars and rally reps at one time. Been looking but Idk how long it'll take to find one used.
Blindo WMIK gets my vote for alloy and Wolf for steel.
If wheels require spacers, then any weight savings from going with alloy are lost.
I've been looking for a spare O.Z. Rally Race. Current production is different style and not available in 16". These wheels were common on rally cars and rally reps at one time. Been looking but Idk how long it'll take to find one used.
Blindo WMIK gets my vote for alloy and Wolf for steel.
If wheels require spacers, then any weight savings from going with alloy are lost.