Advice on removing windscreen NAS 110-replacing foam seals!

El Pinchi

Well-known member
I need to remove the front windscreen to replace the upper/lower foam seals plus do some rust repairs on the outside of the bulkhead. So my question since I have the SD external roll cage, do I have to remove the top of the roll cage from the inside of the 110 and unbolt the roof and the bulkhead to windscreen brackets to remove the windscreen?
Or can it be removed by just removing the bulkhead to windscreen brackets?
There isn’t much room maybe about 3/4 between the roof and roll cage.

See pics
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Ed

ps I don't know why some pics post sideways?
 

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JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
So bad news, it’s gotta come off. good news is that it’s not as bad as you think pending rusted fasteners.

You’ll never get the roof to lift up at all without removing the crossbar on the roof that bolts through to the interior hoop situated behind the front seats. You’ll have to take out the front headliner section to do this. No big deal really, plus it has to come out to remove the bolts that secure the windshield frame to the roof. Then cut the sealing caulk at the top.

At the the very least you’ll need to remove all the cage parts forward of the c-pillar. I’ve never tried to remove a windshield with the top still in place, I assume it’s possible with finesse.
 

MountainD

Well-known member
I just purchased the windscreen to bulkhead seal. What a pos. I’m gonna source my own better material seal material. Does anyone have suggestions?
 

El Pinchi

Well-known member
I just purchased the windscreen to bulkhead seal. What a pos. I’m gonna source my own better material seal material. Does anyone have suggestions?
Where did you buy yours so we know not to get that one? Thats the same one I need to replace.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
3M 5200 sealant is for permanent bonding (and is not particularly UV resistant).
3M 4000 is UV resistant and removable its equally waterproof so likely a better choice if you want to use a sealant.
Exactly,5200 is meant for things you never intend to separate. 4200 for things you might separate, Antibond 2015 works way better on 4200 than 5200. These are polyurethane marine adhesive/sealants, meant for the worst possible environments, intended for underwater fittings and through hulls on boats. 4000 has the best UV properties and we use it more as a caulk than an adhesive. 5200 and 4200 can both be painted over and when encapsulated in paint are fine-uv wise.
We use the hell out of these products.

Trey recently replaced both quarter panels on his NAS 90 tub. He used 5200 as his panel bonding adhesive.
 
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SimonDewing

Well-known member
Used 4000 to seal the gutters on the 110 when we were still in UK, still the only place it doesn't leak (just need to chase down those that do!)
 
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