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I assume we are talking about a Defender. Mine has behaved fine with a 2" RTE lift and the RTE cranked trailing and radius arms. Others have had to install dc drive shafts to manage drive line vibration due to drive line and diff angle (which I had to do in the Classic with a 3 inch lift)...

They do indeed! I didn't need to radius my front fenders, but did trim the lip on the inside of the fender to prevent it from rubbing. Externally it looks normal with the exception of the trimming for the RTE bumper.

I've got a 3 inch RTE spring lift. I get a little rub on 255/85 16s on extreme articulation. I did trim a bit of the fender interior sheet metal and I do have RTE bumpers, so there has been some additional trimming to fit those.

I had the same problem and it ended up being the Ignition Module.

It runs great! You are probably right about the ECU. I am not certain what the previous owner put in it. I am going to go ahead and replace the fuel pump to eliminate that as a possible cause. Seems unlikely, but, better safe than sorry considering how much time I spend in remote areas solo.

I hope a Classic question in this forum won't be a faux pas. I've got a code popping up intermittently that I can't figure out. 26 is supposed to be a Jaguar 14CUX only code. I found this on a UK site, but, I don't know how or if it applies. "26 - Very lean mixture This indicates a very lean...

Nothing wrong with going with what consistently works. I haven't had any of my poly bushings fail. That said, friends of mine have. I suspect the range of articulation and other stressors impact longevity, at least on the radius and trailing arm bushings.

I vote poly. I've got Polybush on both my Defender and Classic. The performance based on the butt-o-meter is definitely superior to rubber. Replacement, as mentioned, is easier and carrying a few spares for trail replacement (which hasn't been necessary in many years of hard wheeling) would be...

I like the Rud chains.