Let's talk suspensions

[Solarguy]

So I am gonna get geared up to do bushings , shocks and springs. I already have a set of 2" lifted springs and would like to hear what is gonna be the best set up to achieve some more articulation and still have decent road manners.
Do I need cranked trailing arms? How about cranked radius arms or are corrected bushings enough? Dislocation cones or spring retainers?
On a lifted truck what bushing should I use?

Any insight will help as I really know nothing about this subject.

 

[Abel Villesca]

I assume we are talking about a Defender. Mine has behaved fine with a 2" RTE lift and the RTE cranked trailing and radius arms. Others have had to install dc drive shafts to manage drive line vibration due to drive line and diff angle (which I had to do in the Classic with a 3 inch lift). You'll want longer travel shocks to increase articulation perhaps. Cones or retaining or a mix of both is a matter of preference, I think, and a matter of how much you can tolerate the sounds of springs moving around and resetting. It can be alarming if you aren't used to it.

 

[nas90tdi]

X2 on the Rovertym. I haver had their stuff on multiple vehicles. Never had any real issues with it. Pretty much the same as Abel on DS issues. It's hit and miss. One will lift and have no vibration and the next with the same setup will rattle your teeth out.


Road manners are somewhat subjective. Just know it's not going to handle the same after you lift it. If you get it set up wrong with your front end rotated to far forward, it can be terrifying to say the least. I really learned my lesson about that trying to dial in my SG 3-link on a D90. Scariest bit of kit I ever owned.

My personal preference on shocks is Fox. I have had pretty good luck with them.

 

[Dan kemper]

I have come full circle on this topic. The lift will allow you to fit bigger tires. That is about it. In order to keep the manners civil most springs are stiffer rate and do not articulate as well. Also many aftermarket parts have been created return the geometry closer to stock. In stock trim your articulation may actually be better and driving manners better. With that being said 2 inch lift should not be an issue and likely does not need arms etc. 3+ inches will.

Here is where the slippery slope begins. My go to set up has been 3ish lift, rovertym front and rear arms. Then you will have to go DC front shaft, spacers to rear links to correct pinion and lengthened standard driveshaft in rear. The rovertym shock mounts are nice to be able to get a longer shocks in to try and keep some of the articulation. The argument for the "cranked" arms is really to get the bushings closer to stock geometry to prevent premature wear.

Keeping it at 2 inches avoids many of the above. Peter recently did the rubicon in a relatively stock disco, 1.5 inch lift, trutrac rear, 7.5 xzls. impressive.

 

[nas90tdi]

Agree with Dan here. I to have laid off the lifts as much. I was a 3" lift 35" tires minimum guy for a long time. It's just too much hassle for too little return in my mind. Lockers are more valuable than the lift I think.

But, they do look cool on 35" and 37" tires dammit.

 

[RBBailey]

I'm not sure about the Defender. I think they might be LR HD springs, and since they don't seem to be sagging, I'm leaving it that way for now.

On my other Rovers I've always run OME MD and have been happy. The few times when I've needed the HD springs have merely been an annoyance when the tail end sags a bit with a heavy load. They have always performed well on the road, giving some more stiffness, but not a jarring discomfort.

I've never really understood going above 3" max. Too much to fix because you 'fixed it' by going over 3". And I think the look is out of proportion to the Rover. Dedicated off roader? Sure.

 

[rocky]

Let’s not forget to add longer flexible brake lines to you shopping list.

 

[Jeff B]

I've never liked the feeling of cones coming out and then theres the whole debate about how much traction a tire can have with so little weight on it....

Now, I just opt for lockers.

My current truck is running stock D90 springs with a 1" spacer and rubber isolators top/bottom(for close to another 1/2").

The ride is great. I'm running 285/75 ATs but pretty sure I can also fit my 255/85 MTs.


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[1of40]

I've been running med-duty OME springs/bilstein shocks, RTE cranked/adjust'd rear arms, extended brake lines, GBR DC front shaft and lowered shock mounts for 15+ years. I tend to go through tie rod ends quickly but all other bushings and such behave well. My springs are retained at the top and bottoms and they sit on disco rubber isolators at the top and bottom as well.

 

[Solarguy]

Great info guys. Thanks.
So is it necessary to have the corrected radius arms or is this something that is sufficient with stock ones? Or just bushings?

I know this horse has been beaten to death, but what bushings do you guys like? Poly or Land Rover bushings?

 

[Uncle Douglas]

Abe you just stirring the pot or actually going to change your truck ?

 

[Jeff B]

Abe you just stirring the pot or actually going to change your truck ?

haha

IMO, I would just do the lift first and see how it drives.
Yes, you will notice a difference but you might adjust to it pretty quickly.
I think it'll be less noticeable in a long wheelbase truck.

Later, if you really feel like correcting all the angles back to stock you can do radius arms, etc....


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[Napalm00]

I've got about 2.5in lift on a 110. Ome HD diesel springs up front and tf medium duty in the rear.

Top and bottom spring disco rubber isolators up front.

With this is have a about a 1in front downward rake due to the spare on the hood, HD bumper winch and 200tdi up front.

No sway bars front or rear

Adjustable panhard

I Have yellow medium britpart/tf polybush everywhere and love them... Easy to install and have been holding up great.

I get minimal front driveshaft vibration when coasting due to the lift and no castor corrections.

I am moving to Rte 4in front springs, castor corrected balls, castor corrected arms , cranked rear arms and a 1in spring lift block in the rear. Also will have new double cardan front shaft and a high angle rear shaft. Taller towers and 12in shortbody fox or bilstien shocks.

I'll be using http://www.adrenalin4x4.co.uk front and rear arms as they make corrected fron t narrow bushing arms that are really robust.



I rebuilt my suspension a few times. And frankly I noticed the best stability change in all of my suspensions didn't come from component changing. When I fully rebuilt my front swivel balls with new Cvs new balls new bushings and bearings and properly preloaded them the truck steered and acted like brand new. Something to consider

 

[Solarguy]

Abe you just stirring the pot or actually going to change your truck ?

No Doug I am gonna do it. I have the springs , the cash for tires and shocks now. It's been a long time coming and am looking forward to it. I have been hoarding small parts here and there and it's time for those too. You know me I am a brain picker before I move on things like this.

Thanks for the info guys. Sounds like I got a plan now.

 

[Uncle Douglas]

what tires are you going to

 

[Solarguy]

what tires are you going to

I am going old school. Buckshot Mudders P78-16.

 

[Uncle Douglas]

I am going old school. Buckshot Mudders P78-16.

I can picture that. You do realize those are right up there with the Co-op Grip Spur (also made by Gateway Tire out of Louisiana) for the noisiest tires ever made ? Although nothing makes noise on those sand roads through the groves...

 

[Solarguy]

I can picture that. You do realize those are right up there with the Co-op Grip Spur (also made by Gateway Tire out of Louisiana) for the noisiest tires ever made ? Although nothing makes noise on those sand roads through the groves...

Owe yeah I know. The truck in the picture was a series 3 109 ex mod I imported from Canada many years ago. We towed it down from RN to here.

 

[Solarguy]

New rubber has arrived.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I still perform castor correction on swivel balls. $150 a pair.