Finally, after too long a time, I have finally actually connected my fog lights to power.
What made this one "special":
I found a "waterproof" relay box, so I was able to power the lights through a relay instead of directly through the switch. The box has six relays, so I have one relay for each fog light, and then one each for headlights. The headlights are a "separate" project, because I thought it best to order new sockets for the headlights. They should be here shortly.
The switch I found was the steering wheel mounted switch that was originally used (I think '97 and earlier) for the rear fog light. Mine is a '98, and the rear light is powered by a switch on the dash, next to the hazard switch and the rear defogger. This one goes on the column, and because it in NOS, looks like it's supposed to be there.
Wire from power through the switch to the relays is 18 gauge marine (tinned) wire. Wire from battery through the relay to the lights is 10 gauge. The lights are WIPAC. They came with 55 watt H3 bulbs, but with the 10 gauge I think I can go to 80 watt, and possibly 100. I thought about LED, but not sure that will "look right" on the old girl. I had a similar concern with the headlights. The "good WIPACs" are expensive, and the bulb only usually do not heat the glass, which may be an issue in the winter. Not 100% sure what I'll do there yet, but the big wire gives me an option either way. In the mean time, I should be good.
Also continued trouble shooting the rear wiper. I really think it's the switch. Here's what I saw today:
Measured volts at the green "input" wire on top and ground, 12V.
Measured volts at the red/brown wire and pressed the "wash" button. 12V. Added bonus: Heard the pump motor run. Did not see water coming out the rear washer... but felt a drip on my leg. Noticed a slight leak in the headliner, along the door opening. I bet that's where the tube is, and there's a break or a leak. Did not want to tear the headliner out today, but know where to look when the time comes.
Measured volts at the red/green wire, and turned the switch on. 0V. Did not think to place a jumper between the green wire and the red/green, which would have bypassed the switch. Maybe tomorrow. But I really think the switch is bad.
Did not pull apart the column to check the voltage at the ignition switch, but I am getting a serious drop (about 1V) between the battery direct and switched accessories like the radio, lighter, and rear wiper switch. Separate project, juggling a bit right now but it's on the list.
Sadly, in my crawling around, I'm starting to see rust on the bulkhead and on the right outrigger. The outrigger concerns me: isn't that where a roll bar would mount? Not sure that can be fixed without doing the entire frame, so that's a way future project. A bit depressing, but that's rust, isn't it?