Wire harness for LED light bar

[Bunyan]

Hi,

I'm looking to install an LED light bar and picked up a LED rocker switch panel and am wondering if I need to still use relay's or if I can simply wire in some fuses and go direct. I'm looking to making my own harnesses rather than buying them ready made.

I found this diagram on a forum and found it quite helpful. Not sure if I need the relays though.

http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/128155-led-light-bar-relay-wire-up.html

Where do you typically run the wires from the LED light bar on top of the roof rack down to the cabin?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Factoid]

The simple answer is that the current drawn by the light bar should not exceed the current capacity of the switch. In fact I usually look a 20% safety factor. For example, if the switch can handle 20 amps, the light bar should draw no more than 16 amps. Definitely use a fuse.

 

[Roverman2010]

Fuse, switch,relay. relay switching powered by a +supply from the high beam circuit. So that led bar only can come on with the high beams.

 

[broke1g]

There is a neat fob controlled relay on Amazon for 20bucks I have used before. No wires into the cabin. Just a remote this is just an example there is a bunch of diff ones

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-U...8&qid=1512598668&sr=8-8&keywords=remote+relay

 

[Bunyan]

Thanks for the input. I’ll have to see if I can’t find a wire diagram for pulling power from the high beam circuit.

 

[The Dro]

Buyan... The wiring on these truck is... how can I say this... a POS.

But before I go off trying to "splain" this...

Do you own the LED light bar? Do you know the ratings?

 

[Napalm00]

Thanks for the input. I?ll have to see if I can?t find a wire diagram for pulling power from the high beam circuit.

No, you misunderstood his point. You need to run a seperate circuit for power with a relay and a switch. Do not run this off the high beam.

You can set the really so it only comes on when the high beam is on, but its not required and I don't suggest it, just complicates the issue

 

[Red90]

...but its not required and I don't suggest it, just complicates the issue

That may depend where you live. It is the law here.

 

[The Dro]

taping the existing wiring harness is playing with fire... literally.

Running a separate and COMPLETE (that means a relay) circuit is the only way IMO.

 

[AdamSanta85]

You don't need a relay if the new independent switch can handle the load, and you are running an independent circuit. This is likely since it is LED. You need to find out how many amps the light bar draws, and how many amps the switch can handle. I would try to use a switch that is rated for double what the light bar draws if you are not going to use a relay.

If you are using an existing Land Rover switch (high beams) to turn them on then you need a relay.

If it was my truck I would be using a relay regardless because it doesn't really take much more effort. I would also be powering this off a new independent fuse box (BlueSea) that has a fusable link between the battery.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Hi,

I'm looking to install an LED light bar and picked up a LED rocker switch panel and am wondering if I need to still use relay's or if I can simply wire in some fuses and go direct. I'm looking to making my own harnesses rather than buying them ready made.

I found this diagram on a forum and found it quite helpful. Not sure if I need the relays though.

http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/128155-led-light-bar-relay-wire-up.html

Where do you typically run the wires from the LED light bar on top of the roof rack down to the cabin?

Thanks for any advice.

In the first schematic it shows the relay's 85 fed by the battery via a switch. Instead, I'd tie the 85 to the high beam side of the headlight wiring so it only gets 12v when the highbeams are on. A dash switch would tie the relay's 86 to ground to energize that relay. The advantage is the relay pulls so little current as to not effect the highbeam circuit (should be blue/orange or blue/grey depending on which headlamp will feed the relay as either will work fine) and the switch is a ground circuit so no short is possible through bulkhead (if it did short the led light would just turn on). You could tie the relay's 85 directly to the battery (fused, of course) so the light comes on independently but as someone else stated that might affect passing inspection (such as here in Va).

 

[Bunyan]

Thanks guys, I'm learning a lot with this info.

Here's the specs of the light (I picked up a cheap china light for time being).
Somehow I can't imagine it's drawing 1200Watts?!?

SPECIFICATIONS

Size: 52inch
Power: 1200W
Bracket Material: Diecast aluminum
Lumen: 180000lm
Housing Material: Aluminum
Lens material: PC
Waterproof rate: IP 68
50000 hours above life time
Certificates: CE & RoHs
100pcs * 12W high intensity LEDs

Pardon my ignorance, if I wire a new dedicated line with a relay how do you supply power to the switch without it drawing constantly even when the Rover is turned off. The LED switches would glow blue...and would constantly draw from the battery.
Is this where I would tap into the high beam light? Or does one install a separate switch that would power up the entire switch board?

Sorry, for the newbie questions. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty but obviously need some coaching.

 

[javelinadave]

Power the switch from a wire that is hot when the ignition is on.

 

[Bunyan]

Cool, that's what I figured. If I'm looking at the first diagram in the link it looks like I would draw power from somewhere that is powered up (like the high beam) and splice it to the bottom power line (in the diagram) to the switch.

Thx!

 

[Napalm00]

Cool, that's what I figured. If I'm looking at the first diagram in the link it looks like I would draw power from somewhere that is powered up (like the high beam) and splice it to the bottom power line (in the diagram) to the switch.

Thx!

Hold on. You do NOT draw power for the lights from the high beam. You only use it to deenergize the relay if the high beams are on.

Main power is its own separate circuit.

First thing I bought for my truck was a fire extinguisher due to the crap wiring In these trucks dont rely on it for anything lol

 

[Bunyan]

Haha, that's funny! That's the first thing I did too.

 

[The Dro]

Holy shit.... 1200W? What are you lighting? a stadium?

You need #2 wire and 100A fuse. That's shit for a winch.

Post a picture of the sticker...

 

[Bunyan]

Yup, they only make those kind of lights on ebay. Must be some new tech. ;-)

I'll post up a pic tonight. If the LED bar even has a sticker. Probably should have spent more money on it...

 

[The Dro]

I think the Chinaman who made these confused Joules with Watts... LOL

 

[Red90]

You really would not want 1200 W of LEDs. Beyond the electrical system not being able to keep up, the amount of light would be much too high. Relays would not be suitable. You would need a contactor or a solenoid rated for that level of continuous draw.