Torque (wrench) Talk

[WreckITFrank]

I have some old craftsmen torque wrenches and was considering a better 3/8. Mostly out of curiosity, what is recommended? I almost pulled the trigger on some good deal digital Gearwrench models, but ended up just waiting. I went down the rabbit hole of used CDI or Snap On, but there are so many out there I have no clue which to run with. I assume a used, but high value digital model would put me better off in the long run, even if needing to calibrate. I'm not building rocket engines, so what I have is likely enough but what's the fun in that. What say you?

I used bar style forever in my military days, so am familiar and know some people will continue to swear by them...but not needing one of those.

 

[evilfij]

Bar type

 

[lcdck]

I bought a 1/2 inch CDI a few years ago. I think it's 30-250 ft lbs. Works for 95% of what I do. I'd buy CDI again. I picked up a 3/8" 10-100 ft lbs (I think) used on ebay for about half price to pair with the 1/2 inch. Neither is digital but those two with an old craftsman needle type are all I'll ever need. Nothing I'm doing would be affected by .5-1% error so I just assume calibration is correct and take care of them.

I was just given a HF 3/8 torque wrench that is free for anyone who would use it.

 

[blueboy]

My primary use is torquing wheel nuts so went with a very basic 1/2” Click type 10-150 ft/lb range. Lexivon purchased from Prime.

 

[MountainD]

My big 1/2" is a Mac that is really nice. I have 2 x 3/8", and I use a connector between the two every now and then to check accuracy (both craftsman) and they still click at the same exact place. I was told years ago to always store them with the handle loose (minimum torque setting) so the spring isn't always in compression. I don't know if that helps, but anecdotally, it sure hasn't hurt.

 

[blueboy]

always store them with the handle loose (minimum torque setting) so the spring isn't always in compression.

That was in the printed material with mine when storing it.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

I've got the bar type Craftsman that I bought in ~1977 and a click-type that I inherited from Dad.

Both are mostly used mostly for wheel lugs though they've also done Chevy, Ford, VW, RV8 rebuilds, diff work, etc.

Both still give the same indications and nothing they've been used on has either stripped or fallen off

Yes, the clicker is stored at "zero"

 

[javelinadave]

I have TEKTON in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in my garage and in my hanger. My buddy checked them for accuracy on the SnapOn truck and they were all accurate. YMMV

 

[supertreeman]

I have TEKTON in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in my garage and in my hanger. My buddy checked them for accuracy on the SnapOn truck and they were all accurate. YMMV

I have the same. Not super expensive and have served me well for many years.

 

[mitherial]

For what it is worth, split-beam torque wrenches have gotten nicer in recent years.
Here is Tekton's but there is also a Harbor Freight clone:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Torque-Wrench-ft-lb-TRQ62203AMZ/dp/B0BFG89TZ8

 

[jymmiejamz]

It kind of depends on what you’re using it for. I have a Snap On digital 1/2” primarily for measuring angle. I also have a standard snap on click type for general use. I prefer that over the digital. Lastly, I use a Snap On Torqometer for things like timing belt tension and pinion bearing preload

 

[WreckITFrank]

This is all mostly just curiosity. 90% of my torquing is wheel nuts. Will be doing some engine work for my old man, in which my craftsmen will be fine, but was always curious about a proper current digital version. Snap-On/CDI still seems to be king. So many second hand, so was curious as to what people are using.

 

[uc4me]

I have TEKTON in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in my garage and in my hanger. My buddy checked them for accuracy on the SnapOn truck and they were all accurate. YMMV

I have the same. Not super expensive and have served me well for many years.

Well, I'm also in this camp for my needs. Pretty happy with them.

 

[brdhmltn]

I have a full set of Eastwood click wrenches I got probably 7 years ago. I don't think they sell the models I have anymore. They came with calibration sheets and I had my work metrology lab check them and all were fine.

I have a digital, but every time I go to use it the battery is dead. I never use it anymore because replacing the battery or removing between use takes too much time. I think for hobbyist use, click mechanical is still the way to go. If I were using it every day or maybe even every week, digital would be ok.

 

[mitherial]

If I wrenched professionally, I would be very tempted by the Milwaukee M12 torque wrench set (link) that combines a power ratchet with precise torque measurements--and because it uses the standard M12 batteries, you don't have to fiddle with figuring out which tiny lithium cell battery is the correct one each time as described above
(drawbacks are price and size). I did recently get the Milwaukee M12 "Insider" low-profile power ratchet, which is fun though not strictly necessary.

 

[expanse]

I've got a big boy CDI 3/4 drive that goes up to 250-500 or 600ft/lbs. Recent addition to the box was a 150?-300ft/lbs snapon that beeps, blinks and does other fun stuff. few other CDI units for the smaller stuff.

 

[WreckITFrank]

If I wrenched professionally, I would be very tempted by the Milwaukee M12 torque wrench set (link) that combines a power ratchet with precise torque measurements--and because it uses the standard M12 batteries, you don't have to fiddle with figuring out which tiny lithium cell battery is the correct one each time as described above
(drawbacks are price and size). I did recently get the Milwaukee M12 "Insider" low-profile power ratchet, which is fun though not strictly necessary.

I've seen it used by lineman on some high voltage stuff. That thing is awesome.

 

[jymmiejamz]

This is all mostly just curiosity. 90% of my torquing is wheel nuts. Will be doing some engine work for my old man, in which my craftsmen will be fine, but was always curious about a proper current digital version. Snap-On/CDI still seems to be king. So many second hand, so was curious as to what people are using.

If you're just doing wheel nuts, any torque wrench will work. Even if the number isn't exact, a cheap torque wrench will be even enough torque for wheel nuts. I have a Craftsman 1/2" drive one that I leave set at wheel nut torque in the apprentice box. I really don't like the digital one I have, but its way easier for doing 3.0/5.0 head bolts that you can't mark with a paint pen because they are so far recessed into the cylinder head. It's nice for a Tdi as well since the increments aren't 90*.

 

[MountainD]

If I wrenched professionally, I would be very tempted by the Milwaukee M12 torque wrench set (link) that combines a power ratchet with precise torque measurements--and because it uses the standard M12 batteries, you don't have to fiddle with figuring out which tiny lithium cell battery is the correct one each time as described above
(drawbacks are price and size). I did recently get the Milwaukee M12 "Insider" low-profile power ratchet, which is fun though not strictly necessary.

I'd need to find one on Facebook Marketplace to even consider it--even then it would have to be a steal!

I never torque my wheel lugs anymore. I use (don't shoot me) a 1/2" gun. TWO THINGS---one, I know exactly what I am doing with my gun. I used to double check the torque and it was always fairly close. I also have NEVER ripped out a stud (mainly because I have done this for so long with checking torque to dial it in) and two: I know how to replace studs and it isn't too hard. I originally did it with my Wolfs because aesthetically, I didn't like having the recessed stud on those rims. But many of you will roll your eyes that I would even do this... But I take my wheels off a lot....and I mean a lot as I am always tinkering...

 

[jymmiejamz]

I use a torque stick with my impact. We run our shop air at 150psi so the tools have a ton of power (Snap On 1/2” impact). I think is is the one I have.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com