Tire Carrier Build - WWYD

acheck

Well-known member
anyone can build a tire carrier that holds stuff and with a nice strong pivot point. but no one has figured out a good latching system. i'd start there.
 

sgo70

Member
AEV makes a single action tire carrier for the JK, I run a 35" tire, high lift and pull pal on mine with no movement at all. I copied their design for one I built on another Jeep and I'm going to do it again for my Defender, similar to the video above but much beefier.

There's a lot of info about guys using the trailer spindles that shear off at the weld, it seems like a good idea otherwise. I think it's because it's made to hold the stress around 5" not 36" but I'm not an engineer or metallurgist haha.

Sean
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I like the Mantec style (bent DOM round tube) carriers, not the kind made from square tubing with lots of hard angles. That--to me--is the Defender style.

For my needs, the ideal, trail-focused carrier is built like the Mantec but made much heavy duty and able to hold a 8.25R16 Michelin XZL tire on a heavy steel wheel. I want the rack to have a solid mount that puts most of the weight on the rear cross member but also ties into the tub of the truck on both sides of the tailgate. In other words, when the tailgate is closed, I want part of the weight to be distributed to the tub (or crossmember) on the opposite side. This would need some sort of hard rubber block for it to rest on so that things don't vibrate.

I don't want any fuel can carriers and I wouldn't mount my Hi-Lift there because I want to be able to retrieve the jack in the event that the truck slides back into a rock face and pins the rear carrier.
 

Robert

Well-known member
anyone can build a tire carrier that holds stuff and with a nice strong pivot point. but no one has figured out a good latching system. i'd start there.

I hate the screen door type tire racks. I built the one on my disco to preload the arm up with a roller and linked it to the door to compress a bump stop. Its held up pretty well with a 35” and is adjustable for when the bump stop starts to age. Its also tucked up as close as I could get it to the body

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2.JPG
 

acheck

Well-known member
i really dont understand that. whats the benefit over just keeping the tire on the door? a discovery door and hinges is substantial compared to a defender. the door latch still carries the full force and weight of the tire (now plus 100 pound shopping cart wheel carrier?)
 

Robert

Well-known member
i really dont understand that. whats the benefit over just keeping the tire on the door? a discovery door and hinges is substantial compared to a defender. the door latch still carries the full force and weight of the tire (now plus 100 pound shopping cart wheel carrier?)

The benefit is the door latch doesnt carry any if the weight of the tire or the 100 pound shopping cart wheel
 

Robert

Well-known member
the door latch still carries all of the fore/aft load

The tire is approximately half the distance from the spindle to the latch so its about 50% of whatever steep grade acceleration scenario that you can think of. Not that it matters. The problem with a heavy tire is when the door is open, not closed. Thats when the hinges bend
 

pfshoen

Well-known member
Wolf/TUM/Pulse model hardtops mount spare high up on side of composite roof. They use a sling arrangement to lower/raise. Does that make it any easier to get it up and down?
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Did anything come out of this?

E
we sketched a few things out, and made some adjustments to the one made by Clay D that was sold some time ago. I since sold the 110 and now have been working through adapting to the 130, but may swing back to it. Sealed bearing is still the way to go, as that's where my buddy's wheelhouse is making specific rigs for road trucks. The mounting will be the same, but latching on any current hitch/step setup interferes, so trying to get around that. lazily continuing forward...
 
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