That God Awful Defender Clunk

[Classic4X4]

I fell like I've never driven a defender that wouldn't let out a loud clunk on a gear change if the shift wasn't done very carefully and smoothly. I know its a common thing and its easy to avoid while driving but those slow shifts up steep hills and at high speeds get annoying. If it happens when you let go of the gas pedal at high speeds as well what could it be? Ive heard u joints, t-case half shafts... Anyone ever successfully abolish this clunk?

 

[mgreenspan]

Check all bushings and bolts thru them. Any slop can cause this. Likely culprits could be A frame since I think a lot of folks ignore them. Money spent on any drivetrain parts can't be visually seen, and sadly solid mechanicals don't generate interest to sell Defenders. Same with wobbly steering.

None of my trucks had it. You have a 25-35 year old vehicle. If you haven't put new bushings in then it's probably time. It could also be any drivetrain slop. See how components move around when you just try to grab driveshafts and move them by hand and turn them.

 

[JimC]

Yeah, sorry, but in 15+ years I’ve never had chronic clunking. The few time I had it, it was always something way wrong: u-joint about to blow, rear shock mount loose, perished rear a-frame ball joint etc. if you have a host of 30 year-old bushings, it is really time for a refresh.

 

[Angus]

When I bought my Defender it had 140k miles on it. All of the bushings were bad, so there was a symphony of clunks. The worst of them, it sounded like a hammer on the frame, was the a-frame ball joint. It allows a lot of slop in the differential on torque reversals. Check that. Not hard to replace if you have a press.

 

[RBBailey]

Bushing clunks and U-joint clunks are different feeling and sounding than the LT230 clunk I’ve had in every LT230 I’ve owned. It is looseness built into the gears to keep them from binding up, as I’ve been told.

I even tested the theory several times by removing the front, then the rear driveshaft. The clunk becomes noticeably more distinct because of that loss in pressure from one end or the other. I also tested it with our dealer when we had 80k on a 2004 Disco II, they made me go away by putting a new LT230 in it. It did the same thing. But none of the bushings were bad.

Some vehicles have more of it, some less. And some don’t show much at all unless you are driving roughly.

 

[MountainD]

^^^^^^Completely agree,

 

[Classic4X4]

Have all new poly bushings, new U-joints and a rebuilt trans and t-case. I heard somewhere that the rear half shafts can get worn and it can take a second for the splines to "catch up" in the meantime ill lift the truck and play with the drivetrain a bit. Thanks everyone!

 

[Classic4X4]

Bushing clunks and U-joint clunks are different feeling and sounding than the LT230 clunk I?ve had in every LT230 I?ve owned. It is looseness built into the gears to keep them from binding up, as I?ve been told.

I even tested the theory several times by removing the front, then the rear driveshaft. The clunk becomes noticeably more distinct because of that loss in pressure from one end or the other. I also tested it with our dealer when we had 80k on a 2004 Disco II, they made me go away by putting a new LT230 in it. It did the same thing. But none of the bushings were bad.

Some vehicles have more of it, some less. And some don?t show much at all unless you are driving roughly.

I have an LT230 and LT77, maybe its just natural for this setup? It only clunks if you dump the clutch or hit the gas hard

 

[1of40]

I’ve been driving my 110 tdi as a daily driver for two months and it has honestly taken some getting used to. The excessive vibe of the tdi is tough but the driveline clunk is just as equally painful. What I’ve learned is smashing the peddle and shifting quickly from 1-2 and 2-3 greatly helps avoid the clunk.

 

[JimC]

Excessive vibrations from tdi? Is everything correct? My tdis purr like little diesel kittens.

 

[1of40]

Excessive vibrations from tdi? Is everything correct? My tdis purr like little diesel kittens.

I?ve got the shitty genuine V8 mounts. I need to try softer ones but there?s 4 Rovers in our family of 4 drivers so mounts have been a little low on the to-do.

 

[RiftRover]

perished rear a-frame ball joint

The worst of them, it sounded like a hammer on the frame, was the a-frame ball joint. It allows a lot of slop in the differential on torque reversals.

This. Had the clunk on my 110 years ago and the ball joint was so worn it looked like it might pop out of the socket. A new one made it go away completely. Worn drive members/axle splines will make a similar noise.