Sliders

[RBBailey]

OK, I've got a few students I'm paying to do some sliders for the Defender.

I have a basic idea of the design, and a general set of measurements, but I'm wondering if any of you have some pics you wouldn't mind sharing.

This is for a 110, I'm looking to make something that does not use the extra tree-bars. I want simple angles, and something that is no taller than about 3" -- I don't like the look of the sliders that get real thick. I love the look of the http://www.psyopticdevelopment.com/ sliders, but this is a complicated build, and I would actually like mine to end up being halfway between the psyoptic design, and a simple square tube. i.e., tapered ends, flat side, slim build, medium duty.

I would love it if someone could get measurements of the actual slider. As of now, I'm measuring the sills. I'm especially curious about the thickness, and how far out yours come from the edge of the doors.

In the end, we plan on building them on the truck as it sits in the shop, step by step. But as much info as possible before starting, would be appreciated.

 

[Napalm00]

Do you have a two door or four door 110. If two door you need an extra rear floor Crossmember

 

[RBBailey]

Four door.

 

[Napalm00]

I can take pics and measurements tomorrow for you, they are the same length.

I have galvanized 110 with tree bars (aka steps)

 

[Tbaumer]

Here are pics of the Psyoptic Development 110 sliders -

 

[Tbaumer]

Guilt free measurements, because no one is going to build these as heavy duty as Jon Carter does! Super impressed with the quality & the clearances are surprisingly close, leaving very little gap between slider and body (1/4 ")

 

[RBBailey]

Very nice! Those things are first class.

Thanks for that.

I don't want to copy his design, I just want it for inspiration to show that a few angles can look good. And the measurements actually tell me what not to do!

How do you like the width like that? I'm torn on exactly how far out I want mine to come. Logically, the extra width is nice for protection and for a step, but I'm always partial to making sure the original lines of the original design of the car are not broken up too much. And although they are a step, do that get in the way, or do you really use them as a step?

 

[Uncle Douglas]

One of the key parts of Carter's design is that he made an angled tube outirgger that uses the three bolts that pass through the frame to hold the crossmember in. This makes his design stronger than any others on the market. His sliders are works of art.

 

[Napalm00]

One of the key parts of Carter's design is that he made an angled tube outirgger that uses the three bolts that pass through the frame to hold the crossmember in. This makes his design stronger than any others on the market. His sliders are works of art.

agreed, this is where you would use the rear floor crossmember, its tinfoil compared to this setup

 

[Tbaumer]

...although they are a step, does that get in the way, or do you really use them as a step?

I like the width because, while they are too high to use as a step for in & out, they are great for reaching tie downs & items on the roof rack.

 

[LR Max]

Here are my sliders, on a 3 door 109.

Its a piece of 2x4 box steel, welded to the chassis with 2x2 pieces of steel. When you REALLY wack the crap out of them, they'll flex a bit, but have never flexed into the body. They protrude out enough to protect the body ok-ish. Of course I'll find that ones stump or whatever that gets the body. But thats wheeling. This photo was taken in 2007, they had been on the truck for about 3 years at this point. 10 years later, still going strong. You can also see the integrated gas tank sliders. I use those a lot.

Rock Sliders by Max Thomason, on Flickr

 

[RBBailey]

Good info, all.

Question: How useful has some kind of high-lift jack point been for you on the sliders?

 

[Roverman2010]

Good info, all.

Question: How useful has some kind of high-lift jack point been for you on the sliders?

Never use that hole in the slider/bumper and hi-lift adapter, Bill Burke has a lot to say about that.

 

[DiscoDavis]

Never use that hole in the slider/bumper and hi-lift adapter, Bill Burke has a lot to say about that.

What does he say about the holes/adapter?

 

[Jeff B]

Never use that hole in the slider/bumper and hi-lift adapter, Bill Burke has a lot to say about that.

What does Bill say about that??



.

 

[Roverman2010]

I cant remember his exact words but he was against using that system.

 

[The_Vermonster]

I believe the reason is that there is no positive locking mechanism for the pin going into the slider. It just means that the vehicle can slip away from the Hi-lift. But I don't think I heard that from Bill Burke.

 

[Jeff B]

I believe the reason is that there is no positive locking mechanism for the pin going into the slider. It just means that the vehicle can slip away from the Hi-lift. But I don't think I heard that from Bill Burke.

Truthfully, there is nothing great about a Hi-Lift jack. Those things can be dangerous as hell.
There is never really any positive *locking* of the jack to the vehicle... and there's the danger of getting caught by the handle...

Hi-Lift jack is my last go-to option.


.

 

[LR Max]

Used a hi-lift a few times on my sliders. As others have said, I am not one to go for the hi-lift, but sometimes you need the right tool for the job.

I've used a Hi-lift on my sliders twice. Both times I took precautions to make sure it wasn't as dangerous. First time I got stuck on a root between my tire and my bulkhead crossmember. No room under the axle to get a bottle jack due to terrain. Jacked up right where the problem was, got a tire off the ground, threw a block of wood under there, off I go.

2nd time, I got a stick in the bead of my tire. Pulled tire, used a hi-lift to break the bead, get the crap out, re-inflate and put it all back together.

12510005784_d4b5e1d960_o by Max Thomason, on Flickr

Overall, I can use the hi-lift on my sliders. Its sketchy AF, but sometimes you are stuck on a stump between your tire and your chassis...