Setting With Dial Gauge

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm going to start this thread to get ahead on the concept of setting the pump timing with a dial gauge. I have been meaning to borrow one, but have not been able to hook up with the right person at the right time, so this has been put off for too long and I ordered one on Amazon for myself at 2am this morning.


I watched the LR Toolbox video for this and took a few notes, and it seems a fairly straightforward process. But a few questions came up once I actually understood what he was doing.

  1. Other than the vac and fuel pump being in the way, are there any other issues with getting the gauge to slip into place? Should I remove the fuel lines completely, or let them hang from the injectors? Just looking for real-world procedure type stuff here.
  2. What is the PN of the copper washer on the bolt on the back of the pump? I have a few different copper washers here and there, but want to think ahead so I don't have to wait a week to put a single bolt back in place.... yes, that has happened in the past...
  3. I think I'm looking to set at 1.54 at TDC, I realized that I'm dealing with a Disco engine that I think used to have the EGR in place. Does this mean that I actually want to set at 1.4, or is that only for when the EGR is in place, but since it is gone, I now set the same pump at 1.54?
  4. Once I have the engine at TDC and the fuel pump pegged, is there a way to use the gauge to check that the pump is at 1.54 before removing the three bolts at the front of the pump. In other words, if it is set correctly, why remove the bolts and reset to correct, and how can I use the gauge to verify it is at 1.54 before doing this? I think I see how I can do this, but am unsure without having it right in front of me.
  5. Should I set at 1.54 (or 1.4 as the case may be) or is there a real and healthy argument for setting at 1.6 as I've seen here and there?
 
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