Rear crossmember replacement

Tbaumer

Well-known member
Thought I would just clean up & seal the rear crossmember, but it didn't make sense with the extent of the rust holes, thinning & flaking metal separation. I'm not ready for the commitment of going "ALL IN" on a complete chassis yet. Here is my existing crossmember:

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New galvanized crossmember & step bumper waiting to go in:

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Checked out a bunch of threads/videos & it appears to be straight forward. As this is a first for me, advise is always welcome & I'll try to keep a simple job simple.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
straight forward, drop tank, pull wiring harness back so it doesnt get cut.
Welding galv steel sucks. It fizzles like a sparkler.
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Be very cautious welding galvie, grind off where you want to weld and wear a filter particulate mask at all times. Galvie welding can off gas cyanide.
 

1of40

Well-known member
Be very cautious welding galvie, grind off where you want to weld and wear a filter particulate mask at all times. Galvie welding can off gas cyanide.
Absolutely no joke. A local shop let one of their employees to weld a galvy crossmember w/o proper protection and it put him in the hospital with perm lung damage.
 

Tbaumer

Well-known member
Thanks for the warning all! I remember my grandfather drinking buttermilk before welding galvanized metal.
No, even as a kid I didn't see how it could protect his lungs, but the old guys seemed to think so...

I'll grind off the zinc to bare metal, exhaust fan to ventilate & wear a mask before welding.
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
Thanks for the warning all! I remember my grandfather drinking buttermilk before welding galvanized metal.
No, even as a kid I didn't see how it could protect his lungs, but the old guys seemed to think so...

I'll grind off the zinc to bare metal, exhaust fan to ventilate & wear a mask before welding.
Haha that sounds about as real as women not getting pregnant while breast feeding.
 

Tbaumer

Well-known member
Removed my spare wheel carrier.

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Haven't dropped the tank out of the way yet. Pre-marked the chassis to get an idea of where I'll be cutting & found that the rear sway bar brackets will make me notch the new crossmember flanges a bit on the bottom to miss them. I'm also splitting the floor rails, so I'll be grinding the front welds & re-welding them to the new crossmember. If I would've thought about it, I probably could have found a rear crossmember with the floor rails attached :oops:.

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Tbaumer

Well-known member
I was out of town this last weekend, so tonight I drained the tank, lowered the sway bar, removed the muffler & fuel tank. The inside of the tank looked really clean & rust free.

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Even before clean up, I noticed stress cracks in the upper floor rail (pic #3) that will need to be addressed.
 

Tbaumer

Well-known member
Tank & support removed. Looks like a bit of rust between them that I'll address before they go back in.

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Because it 's working & easy enough to drop the tank that I'm waiting to replace the fuel pump (remember this comment if it quits on the trail :oops:).
 

Tbaumer

Well-known member
Had to cut off the screws to remove the rubber protectors. Disconnected the harness & pulled the wiring down through the grommet.

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Tbaumer

Well-known member
The replacement crossmember does not have the indentation for trailer hook up, so I'll be deleting that section of wiring for now. Harness disconnected at the rear & pulled down.

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Tbaumer

Well-known member
Used grinder & cutting wheel to separate the back leg of the floor rail, leaving tabs that can be welded to the new crossmember. Cutting wheel to cut off the rear body bolts.

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Tbaumer

Well-known member
I was afraid the wiring would catch inside & wanted to see what it was routing through before I started pulling it back, so I used a heavy wire to push the harness out of the way & carefully cut off the rear crossmember.

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