Range Rover classic rear storage/makeover

Toyrover

Well-known member
I am looking at cleaning up the back of the rrc. Does anybody have any pics of ways they have redone the back. Hoping to make some storage for tools, and possibly put a 235 spare back there. Couldn’t find anything searching. I would love to have a drawer system back there
 

azarmadillo

Member
If you intend to keep a 235/85R16 spare tire in the stock location you may need to make some modifications to the sheet metal in order for it to fit depending on which 235/85R16 tire you put back there. I was not able to fit an original tread pattern Goodyear MTR 235/85R16 in the stock location, even deflated. It may also not be entirely feasible with a full width drawer system. Depending on the preferred layout of the drawer system, the placement of the spare tire may need to be rethought.

Not desiring any type of drawer system, I have modified my 1991 RRC Hunter to fit a new 255/85R16 BFG KM2 tire. Because of this tire's 33+" size when new, I believe this is the largest possible tire to fit in the original spare tire location and doing so does have some trade-offs.

I didn't want decreased visibility of a rear tire carrier inherently causes. I also didn't want the weight dynamic of the vehicle to change by as much as an exterior rear tire carrier/custom bumper/and 33" spare tire attached to the back would cause. I also didn't want to lose the cargo space inside on the floor as I had previously experienced with 235/85 and 255/85 size spare tires located there. Thus, that meant modifying the interior sheet metal to make the tire fit inside in the stock location.

So the sheet metal was cut out and new custom pieces welded back in place to accommodate the 255/85. But there were trade offs for this scenario.

1. Rear driver side seat belt originally mounted above the spare in the stock location occupied space needed for the spare tire and thus has to be removed. This wasn't a concern for me though as I have only had more than one passenger ever in the vehicle only a few times and the seat was removed and an ARB refrigerator put in its place. So I didn't need the seatbelt at that point.

2. Rear driver side bump stop had to be extended even lower as to prevent the 255/85 rear driver side tire from making contact with the newly modified sheet metal that now occupies part of the wheel well. We did figure that one out after the fact.

3. It eliminated the possibility of installing a full width drawer system as the 255/85 tire would not be able to be lifted above a drawer system that is taller than 6". Assuming loss of 2" for top and bottom materials and sliders, gives you a workable drawer height of about 4" which seemed to me kind of pointless. Also, with the 255/85 in order to remove the spare from the stock location I have to tilt it out into the cargo area and do very little if any actual lifting of the spare tire. What gets in the way of lifting the spare? The roof, the wheel well and the D pillar. Hence why I believe the 255/85 is the largest spare tire possible to put in that location even with extensive modifications.

4. Have a stock dog guard in your RRC? Plan to move it or remove it. Space is severely limited since the stock dog guards extend below the rear seat backs. Placement became dictated by the spare tire as it forced the dog guard to move forward but forward movement was quickly halted by the rear seat backs. I have about 1-2 millimeter gaps between the spare, the dog guard and the rear of the back seats.

See photos below. Larger photos and an additional details can be found here http://azlro.org/chad/spare.html.








 

rocky

Well-known member
In the D1 and I assume RRC there are four tie down points ready to take the LR tie down ring and M10 bolts. With a little ingenuity these will come in handy. Two on the left and two on the right. Lift up the carpet and padding by the tailgate to see.
 

azarmadillo

Member
No factory tie down locations in the RRC. If you install some you can place them anywhere you want. Make sure to use appropriate backing plates and lots of silicone to plug the hole and waterproof it.

Using stainless steel hardware I installed tie downs I pulled out of General Motors SUVS. There are two types of these. The ones I used are from late 1990s and early 2000s models. There's a year in which GM decided to make the triangular rings much thinner. It probably does not matter which ones you use, but there are differences based on the age of the part. Only the thinner ones are available brand new.

In the RRC, there are two existing body holes I used between the door and the seat, no drilling necessary and they are out of the way. I installed a tie down in both spots. They don't get in the way of the seats and the existing carpet covers them when not in use. I also installed two more to keep my Wavian jerry cans in place. I can fit four side by side between the wheel arch and my ARB refrigerator and they fit perfect there. Add a ratchet strap and the Wavian jerry cans remain in position nicely. I haven't installed any additional yet as my cargo placement has been very dynamic to the point I just haven't decided where or how many additional I will install just yet.





 
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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
One option that I used at least for a while was to remove the tire from the spare location, and to lay it down flat on the cargo floor. You then build a shelf over the top of the tire, and anchor it in place as you see fit. You will have some good room for tools and such to go under this shelf, and around the tire. The top of the shelf then becomes your new floor, and tie downs are easy, as well as you should still have room to put a slide-out fridge in, but can't remember for sure. This isn't optimal, but it works in place of a rear tire carrier, or modifications to the sheet metal.... which I also did to get my 235 in place.
 

Toyrover

Well-known member
Azarmadillo, you rock! Thanks for the help. I am only rocking 2 inch springs with 265 but need new tires so either 235 or 255, debating the expense of all the mods to make 255 work.
 

pmatusov

Founding Member
I found RRC to have a LOT more places to mount a tiedown ring than a D1. To a point that a washboard produces a very tiedown ring-specific noise.

7.50-16 XZL fits perfectly in the factory location after a few hits with a dead-blow hammer.
A jerry can fits perfectly where the subwoofer used to be in a 95 RRC.
A 16" wide, 54" long double shotgun Pelican case fits perfectly on the floor behind the front seats, making the flat floor from the seats to the tailgate.
 

rover4x4

Well-known member
I fit a slightly worn 235/85 KM into the LWB, had to massage the spare tire well with a rubber mallet. As mentioned above I lost the seatbelt reel. FWIW not that anyone would ever buy 225/75s but I lost the use of the seatbelt reel in the Hunter when I put the KM2 in the spare spot.

AZ armadillo wheel well modification is awesome! placing a spare tire on a roof rack is borderline insane and rear tire carriers ruin the lines of the RRC
 

Toyrover

Well-known member
Ok, super stupid question, is that big black rectangle on the right a subwoofer? I have a whole bunch of stuff like an after market amp, I need to get rid of. But wondered about the big square?
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Just my $.02 on tie downs. I really like the Disco 2 tie downs because they can't rattle and look factory. They are plentiful in junk yards since not many people are looking for them. My other favorite are the ones from Mac's Custom Tie Downs. They make little plates that utilise a removable spring loaded tie down loop. When not in use they are smooth and don't get in the way in the cargo area. They also make strips which allow you to move around the tie down rings.
 
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