Q: Installing Mantec Tire Carrier

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm looking at the kit and the plate that goes to the back of the door. The plate has 15 holes in it, and four stud posts for the piston to fix to. There are two bolts in the kit for the door plate.

Three of the holes in the plate do line up with three holes on my door. But then... why is the plate so huge with 15 holes and only 2 bolts to use?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Both of those are good. Thanks.

Not sure if that means I should follow directions in PDF or the directions from Paddock, concerning the door plate. I guess my question should be more along the lines of which bolt holes do I use for my door? And does it matter that it is only going into the skin of the door, not into any internal structure? The way Paddock's did it probably would not work for my door if I need to use internal structure for these bolts.

I would think that six, like Paddock's uses would be enough, but then I'm drilling 6 new holes in a skin that already has 9, and 3 of those 9 line up with 3 of the holes on the plate.
 

xplorutah

Well-known member
IIRC On my 110 I cut a steel plate to go inside the door in the center and bolted through that. It was quite solid.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
I do not know how paddocks fitted it but I fitted the hinges on first then using one of my big welding magnets on the inside of the door open and closed a few times to see which bolt holes lined up. Thinking back I had four so with anot her stiffener plate all was gooda. The door plate carries no weight just a guide for operating.

BUT you seem to have troubles with bolt holes lining up? Just take your time all will unfold.

Thinking back I had the space the cly rod in with a couple of washers. Might a pic on my build b777onr.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Technically, I could put holes wherever, but I don't want to put more than I need to. I think I'll just use the three that exist to get it installed, then use the outside holes to see if I can actually straighten my door out a bit! It has a bow in it. Should replace, but $.$$ on this project is at an end for now.
 

Wilboro

Well-known member
I'm looking at the kit and the plate that goes to the back of the door. The plate has 15 holes in it, and four stud posts for the piston to fix to. There are two bolts in the kit for the door plate.

Three of the holes in the plate do line up with three holes on my door. But then... why is the plate so huge with 15 holes and only 2 bolts to use?

You didn't get the model for a later pressed Td5/Puma door did you? The door plates are different I believe.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Maybe I did. I don't remember there being an option when I ordered.

The plate is bolted in place now, with the three bolts around the center. Test fitting to the lower hinge seems like it is in the right position. I may get around to drilling the two holes for the upper hinge in the next few hours here. But one way or another it will be done by tomorrow.
 
The tire will bounce on just the skin when you shut the door and fatigue the skin. I would recomment cutting a plate to sandwich in the door structure to stop that as xplorutah suggested. I did the same on mine.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah. I think I may have to do that, but my door isn't... uh... solid. So it is probably best to anchor it as is, then use the six side bolt holes as guides to drill all the way through and anchor a new plate on the inside of the vehicle.

I was kind of hoping the Mantec would solve the issue of putting stress on the door/skin. I thought that's what I was paying for!
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I think this is my last question -- I have two big flat washers for each hinge. One plastic, one metal. Which goes on top, which on bottom? As of yet, I can't find them in any of the online diagrams, they only show one washer.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Awe.... Got it all working well, door swinging freely, everything holding center from open to shut to open, even put some weight on it. Pulled it all apart to grease and do rust prevention in all the spots... now nothing fits back together. Door won't open and shut right, piston is off center, popping noise from hinges.... ARGH!

I should have just left it, it was perfect!
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
The hinges will bind if you over tighten the lower body mount and the bolt that holds the delrin bushing in. Snug but not overly tight
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'll be sure to watch for that in the morning. Other than the door plate, I just took it all apart so I can start fresh tomorrow. Not sure what happened, but I know it was working right, I assume I can get it right again.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Done a bunch of these, compared to most things for defenders, the instructions are quite good. Steel washer goes under carrier arm, nylon on top. I don't lubricate anything but the two long hinge bolts with antiseize. Snug them down with hand wrenches only. Everything in the kit is a nylock so no need to get crazy tightening it down.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Actually, instructions are good, just that they don't pertain to exactly what I have. For instance, I can't find a diagram or text that tells which washer goes where. Paddocks mentions the two washers, but does not indicate position. And the fact that my existing holes (instructions say to use existing holes in door) go through the edge of the door ribs, not off to the side, or through middle, made me think they were in a bad position in the first place.

Thanks for telling me which goes where.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Actually, instructions are good, just that they don't pertain to exactly what I have. For instance, I can't find a diagram or text that tells which washer goes where. Paddocks mentions the two washers, but does not indicate position. And the fact that my existing holes (instructions say to use existing holes in door) go through the edge of the door ribs, not off to the side, or through middle, made me think they were in a bad position in the first place.

Thanks for telling me which goes where.

I hear ya. We just adapted a station wagon model mantec (seems like the only version readily available anymore) to a tailgate we converted to side swing. We made a couple additional parts to get it to fit right. Fitting the gas shock on the inside today to further refine the tailgate/carrier action.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/interior-accessories-11/defender-rear-door-gas-strut.html
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK. Took about three to four hours of actual work. Including the prep work to the rear door.
 

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