Prop shaft u-joints

chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
What are my options for u-joints for my prop shafts? I'm looking for the best quality available. I've done a little web research but I'm lost in a sea of part numbers and I'm just not sure what's correct.

I have a stock shaft in the rear and a Tom Woods double cardan shaft in front.

Some part numbers I've heard:

1310
TVC100010
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I would probably just buy Genuine. Maybe someone here knows who makes them? They seem to last a long time.
 
Landy_Andy

Landy_Andy

Well-known member
if you have a TW in the rear it uses 1310 joints, the front uses LR ones that are a similar but different size. I'd suggest you swap out the front to match. 1310's are available at any parts store throughout NA.
 
V

Viton

Well-known member
Neapco brand are US made.
You should be able to buy them for as little as $15 once you know the correct size.

The 2 measurements you need to buy the correct units are:
1. the diameter of the end caps
2. the total length (over all length) of the unit with the caps on.
Be sure they are clean when you measure them.
 
L

LR Max

Well-known member
Depends. How is the slip joint (forgot the real name) on the driveshaft? If it has play, get new ones from Rovahfarm. Cheaper and easier.

Otherwise you can get spicer joints. I think LRFAQ has the crossover part numbers.

Or you can take it to a driveline shop and have them install and balance the shaft. That is what I did about 10 years ago. Turns out the driveshaft was way out of balance. Also I have broken a vice trying to install driveshaft joints. It is a crappy job, especially for old and rusted ones. I'd rather pay a shop to screw with it.
 
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I'm out in the sticks here in Kansas. We have a local machine shop that can balance them but I don't trust anyone in this town to give me the premium high quality u-joints even if I ask. I want to supply my own, thus the post.

Tom Woods' web page says they use the 1310s in their shafts so that makes that shaft easy.

I'll check out the LR FAQ for the Rover shaft and post up what I find.
 
Landy_Andy

Landy_Andy

Well-known member
chris snell said:
Are 1310s and Land Rover Genuine u-joints interchangeable?
Click to expand...

No, slightly different sizes. Similar strength with the 1310 supposedly being some what stronger.

Main advantage for switching to 1310's are there used in 99% of half ton trucks & lots of Jeeps... You can prob guarantee if your wheel'in in a group of mixed vehicles, someone will have one.

If your concerned about strength you can get 1310 joints that are not drilled for grease.
 
V

Viton

Well-known member
pmatusov said:
Right.
http://www.neapco.com/index.php/about-neapco/company-history

Quote:"And in 2011, Neapco opened a business office in Shanghai, China, to better serve customers and work with suppliers throughout Asia."

It does not necessarily make them bad u-joints.
Click to expand...

Note it does not say"opened a manufacturing plant" but does say, "And in 2011, Neapco opened a business office in Shanghai, China, to better serve customers and work with suppliers throughout Asia." Nor does it say they manufacture in China.

From what I see in the verbiage you reference is that the U-Joints are made in Nebraska,
"Opened in 1981, Neapco's Beatrice, Nebraska, facility has undergone four major expansions to accommodate manufacturing for CV joints and drivelines, universal joints and a complete line of driveline components."
 
RonL

RonL

Member
Napa vs. AutoZone vs. Land ROver

DSCF3069.JPG
Auto-Zone is made in the USA by Neapco.
Napa is made in Japan by GMB.
Land Rover OEM made by GKN.
DSCF3074.JPG
Napa (Shorter) vs. AutoZone (Taller)
DSCF3070.JPG
Napa vs. AutoZOne
DSCF3066.JPG
 
Last edited:
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Ron, I have your NAS-ROW Technical Excellence sticker here for the next time I see you. Thanks for that.

Do you have a part number for the Autozone Neapco ones that fit in the LR stock driveshaft?
 
RonL

RonL

Member
In 2007, when I did this research, Napa and Auto had serviceable(with grease zerk) and non-serviceable(without zerk) options, so make sure you ask for ones with zerks if part#s have changed in the last 10yrs...
 
V

Viton

Well-known member
How to measure a U-Joint still in the yoke.
1. Remove the U-Joint retainer clips from both ends of opposite yoke ends.
2. Clean out those yoke end "holes" and U-Joint ends thoroughly.
3. The diameter of the yoke end hole can now be measured with the ID end of your
Vernier caliper. This will be very close to the U-Joint end cap measurement.
4. Take 2 sockets that loosely fit into the cleaned opposite yoke holes. Stack them &
measure the over all length (OAL) with your Vernier caliper, write down this
measurement.
5. Hold the sockets in the clean yoke holes and measure the OAL of the U-Joint and the
2 sockets combined. Write this AOL down.
6. Subtract the 2 sockets length (step 4.) from the total length in step 5.
This is the length of your U-Joint.
7. You now have U-Joint length and end cap outside diameter measurements needed
to buy the correct U-Joint.
 
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I decided to ditch the rusty pile of crap Allmakes shaft and get a Tom Woods for the rear. I chose this so I can have a known and extremely common 1310 u-joint in both shafts and carry a spare that will work in either. Thanks for the help y'all.
 
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