Parking Brake NOT Sticking

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So I finally got around to installing my park brake lever. I don't think this cable is exactly supposed to fit the style of lever I have, but it doe just reach (so it is tight when disengaged) and it fits right to the attachment on the lever.

But when I pull the handle up, nothing. No effect at all. This is the first time I've even looked at making it work. And when I pull, the cable does travel a good 3-4 inches.

So do I need to pop off the brake drum and see what's up, or does the cable style R380 need more pull length, and I'm just not getting it with this lever?
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Possibly as simple as your parking brake needing adjusted.
Under the truck, on the front of the brake plate is a 17MM bolt head. Look between the transfer case and the brake drum.Turn it clockwise to spread the shoes closer to the drum, thereby shortening the pull needed to contact the drum. Adjust until it only takes a partial pull to stop. Your lever will actually go way beyond where it needs, that allows for the brake to still work as the shoes wear.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, that worked.... sort of. I can see now that my lever does need to have the connection modified a bit to give it the pull needed for this cable, but I think I'll be able to make it work. I'll update tomorrow.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Glad it worked a bit. I failed Mass inspection sticker because the brake wouldn't hold. Totally forgot about it before I went in. First failure in thirty years most of them with two cars but the last five with three or more.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I can't really get it to hold unless I tighten that bolt down to the point where it is rubbing while driving -- as if the Defender needs more drag.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
Is it possible that the shoes have been contaminated at some point with gear oil from the transfer case?
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Something is up. With the shoes adjusted as close as possible without dragging, it only takes a very short pull to completely seat the shoes on the drum. So,..........either your shoes are completely wasted or there is some mechanical issue. The system is bone simple. It's basically Fred Flintstone braking. I would pull the drum off and take a look. New shoes and an install kit with new clips and springs are super cheap and the things seldom actually break. But, it's worth a peak under the hood to see what it's doing.

You had mentioned your lever. If it's pulling the cable and that's actually attached to the actuator arm, that's not your issue.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Pull the drum. It's easy. Just remove the driveshaft and use a big POZIDRIV bit to unscrew the retaining screw. There are several causes for transmission brake issues:

- Spreader needs adjustment to account for worn-down shoes
- Spreader is gummed up with dust and funk
- Shoes are contaminated with oil from a leaky rear output seal on the LT230.

All of these are easy to fix:

If it's just adjustment, gently turn the square adjuster on the back of the housing.

If the spreader looks manky, remove the spring and the shoes (carefully use a prybar) and disassemble the spreader, taking care to understand how it goes together (it's not complicated). Clean the parts thoroughly with Fast 505 and water, then dry. You can also use brake parts cleaner for this. Reassemble.

If the shoe and drum are contaminated with oil, you will need to pull the whole thing apart and replace the rear output seal on the LT230. This sounds way harder than it is. There are two keys to this job: first, removing the old seal. The trick is to smash it from the inside edge with a chisel to crush it against the LT230 casing. This will make it easy to remove with a seal puller. The second key is making the tool to hold the flange.

You'll need an impact wrench and socket to remove the flange nut, and some kind of bar to hold the flange in place while you hit it with the socket to disassemble. I made a tool out of a 2' long piece of 3/4" angle iron. I drilled holes in it so that I could put the driveshaft bolts through it. I braced it on the ground to hold the output flange in place while I hit the flange nut with the impact. When you reassemble, you'll want to use a fresh felt washer (I have some extras).

If your shoes are worn or oil-contaminated, you will need to replace them. Fortunately, they are cheap. You will also want to hit the drum w/ Fast 505 and give it a good soaking to get all of the oil out of the pores.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah, the output is leaking a bit, but the problem is I've done four of those and never have got them to stop leaking. So I'm looking at the two that are leaking now, and I really just want to spend my time doing something else.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Yeah, the output is leaking a bit, but the problem is I've done four of those and never have got them to stop leaking. So I'm looking at the two that are leaking now, and I really just want to spend my time doing something else.

Fucking story of my land rover life
 
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