Painting Galvy Bulkhead advice

supertreeman

Well-known member
Swapping bulkheads in my 110 and new one is Galvy. It’s in primer stage now but lots of the imperfections from the galvanized are shown. Torn between trying to smooth these out before final paint or leaving as is. Final color is Alpine White so it should tone down some of the imperfections I’d think.

Curious what others have done?
F31505A8-6A18-4C35-AC7F-5CF0AF40E1D1.jpeg
AB57596D-E29D-419A-8998-A7AE851657A9.jpeg
9D1E20B8-122B-48FA-AD44-EC2ED72C143B.jpeg
 

erover82

Well-known member
I'd have started with a light sanding to remove high spots. At this point I'd sand, spray high build primer, and sand again. Repeat until you're satisfied. Then top coat.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I think you need to "pickle" the galv before you do any painting or it will flake off in about a year.
 

erover82

Well-known member
Pickling is an acid etch process used before galvanizing. Acid etch is also provided by etching primers. As long as the galvanizing is degreased, not powdering, and an etching non-alkyd primer is used, it should adhere well. Although if using a non-etching primer, you should certainly etch it priming.
 

supertreeman

Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestions. It’s being painted by a body shop not me and they used wherever was correct for Galvy. (I forget exactly but acid etching primer sounds right)

im not crazy about the imperfections so I think they need to go..
 

LostChord

Well-known member
I don't think the imperfections look that bad, but then again, my truck has quite the patina. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess. I'd probably leave it and if anyone asked, explain that it is a galvy'd bulkead. :)
 
Last edited:

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
yep pickling /etching is what im referring to. I dont think that standard etching primer works on galv surfaces, its some secret sauce stuff
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Depends on the quality of the ultimate finish.
I’d review your options with the shop, but you certainly want to level the depressions.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
After a light sanding, and knocking down any imperfections, galvanized metal should first be treated with PPG DX579. It's is a multi-purpose phosphoric acid based cleaner and pre-paint conditioner for most metals. It can be used to deep clean a metal surface prior to paint or to prepare a surface for a subsequent chemical conversion coating. Then PPG DX520 Metal conditioner. DX520 is a phosphoric acid based conditioner that will deposit a uniform layer of zinc phosphate on properly prepared galvanized and steel surfaces. DX520 is intended as the second step in a two step process, following DX579 application. THEN prime.

5 years on with this process and the paint is still perfect.
 

Attachments

  • P-226_DX_Metal_Treatment_2+13.pdf
    86.4 KB · Views: 240

erover82

Well-known member
After a light sanding, and knocking down any imperfections, galvanized metal should first be treated with PPG DX579. It's is a multi-purpose phosphoric acid based cleaner and pre-paint conditioner for most metals. It can be used to deep clean a metal surface prior to paint or to prepare a surface for a subsequent chemical conversion coating. Then PPG DX520 Metal conditioner. DX520 is a phosphoric acid based conditioner that will deposit a uniform layer of zinc phosphate on properly prepared galvanized and steel surfaces. DX520 is intended as the second step in a two step process, following DX579 application. THEN prime.

5 years on with this process and the paint is still perfect.

Great option for non-etching base primers. However, not needed for self etching primers. From the PDF: "If the intended coating process includes spray applying Wash Primers (also known as etch primers or pretreatment coatings) to properly sanded and cleaned bare metal substrates, DX Metal Treatments in any combination are not required or advisable."

Your body shop should understand this stuff and advise you properly based on the paint systems they use.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
Great option for non-etching base primers. However, not needed for self etching primers. From the PDF: "If the intended coating process includes spray applying Wash Primers (also known as etch primers or pretreatment coatings) to properly sanded and cleaned bare metal substrates, DX Metal Treatments in any combination are not required or advisable."

Your body shop should understand this stuff and advise you properly based on the paint systems they use.
Ultimately, it's dependent on the type of paint being used as a finish. Prep, prime and paint should be completed by the same shop so the correct procedures, with the corresponding correct materials are used.

 
Top