OME Suspension Upgrade - Handed Spring Question

I know this has been discussed fairly extensively, however, after spending all last night looking through threads I still don't have a definitive answer to this.

I've ordered the OME (Old Man Emu) Medium duty kit from Rocky Road for my 90

I currently have a terra-firma kit and the rear end is sitting a whopping 1.5" lower than the front (absolutely no load) - says something about these kits. Especially since its only been on for ~10K miles

Measuring from hub to bottom of wheel arch my truck sits about 1/2" lower on the drivers side

So my question is -

My kit came with handed springs (one side a bit taller) ~1/2"

I'm reading the taller springs always go on the drivers side -

My truck is LHD and the fuel tank is under the RH seatbox - so I'd think handed springs wouldn't be necessary as the fuel weight would counteract the driver weight? (as opposed to the opposite where driver sits over tank on RHD models)

I know some suppliers match the kits so that they aren't handed but that being said my RH is 1/2" lower (seems like the springs would correct this?)

Before I bolt these things on and lose any shot at returning them, I wanted to get some opinions from you guys.

Am I going to spend a night under the truck to find that the thing has a nasty lean to it? I'd rather get unhanded springs than have to put in disco isolators.

Edit: The kit was also supposed to come with correction caster bushings but they didn't send them to me. When I asked - they told me I probably don't need them and to refer to the ARB datasheet.... which says to "check manufacturers specs" - so no idea

Thanks guys - warms my heart to know there's a place like this where people with shared passions spend time helping total strangers.
 
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I only ever bought matched sets of OME springs for all of my Discos and Defenders. My trucks never leaned and I never had to mess with adding trim packers. I also never had to mess with castor or fancy driveshafts with 2” OME lifts on all the vehicles. If you go 3” you may need to add corrected radius arms, trailing links, custom drive shafts, double cardan jointed drive shaft(s), castor corrected swivel housings, or any combination of all of them. Or maybe none at all. I needed to do trailing links, and driveshafts for my 3” lift.

With a 2” lift it should be within tolerance and not cause any issues, but be warned that any older weaker parts may start wearing quickly and need to be replaced that otherwise wouldn’t have been noticed had you not lifted the truck.
 
I only ever bought matched sets of OME springs for all of my Discos and Defenders. My trucks never leaned and I never had to mess with adding trim packers. I also never had to mess with castor or fancy driveshafts with 2” OME lifts on all the vehicles. If you go 3” you may need to add corrected radius arms, trailing links, custom drive shafts, double cardan jointed drive shaft(s), castor corrected swivel housings, or any combination of all of them. Or maybe none at all. I needed to do trailing links, and driveshafts for my 3” lift.

With a 2” lift it should be within tolerance and not cause any issues, but be warned that any older weaker parts may start wearing quickly and need to be replaced that otherwise wouldn’t have been noticed had you not lifted the truck.
Thanks for the info, ARB states this setup should provide ~1.5-2" of lift so I think I should be in the clear. Maybe this'll uncover some mechanical skeletons in the closet.

Really hope I didn't make a mistake ordering the handed set. You'd think they'd know better at this point if the handing isnt necessary.
 
Typically there is a difference to make up for crowning on roads. In the US, the right springs would be slightly longer so the truck drives level. You also see alignment differences (camber) to the car does not pull.
 
Thanks for the info Agnus!

Seems a little ridiculous. So they're designed to sit off-kilter when parked on level ground?

I have been exchanging emails with rocky road and they've basically told me to "go figure" - Nice interaction considering the cost of these kits.
 
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jymmiejamz

0
Callsign: KN4JHI
I don’t know if they still do, but Expedition Exchange used to sell OME springs as matched pairs. You could always return the ones you just bought and buy a matched set from someone else.
 
I don’t know if they still do, but Expedition Exchange used to sell OME springs as matched pairs. You could always return the ones you just bought and buy a matched set from someone else.
And give them a call if you have any questions. The website also has a great information base.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I actually prefer the handed springs. I always put the taller one on the driver side, im larger than average and it works out for me.

I also always use the rubber spring packer to reduce nvh in an already harsh ride.
 
I actually prefer the handed springs. I always put the taller one on the driver side, im larger than average and it works out for me.

I also always use the rubber spring packer to reduce nvh in an already harsh ride.
I use the rubberized spring isolators and the Discovery II rubberized shock turret retaining rings for the same reason, too. Not to be confused with trim packers to level the vehicle while sitting.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I use the rubberized spring isolators and the Discovery II rubberized shock turret retaining rings for the same reason, too. Not to be confused with trim packers to level the vehicle while sitting.
Yep the disco ones are the ones I use
 
I'd call Bill at GBR. He was great, took a lot of time to talk to me about what I wanted/needed and shipped me handed OME springs & Bilstein shocks.

 
Was able to get in touch with ARB and get a detailed response - they said the suspensions are in fact, designed for RHD models and they recommend the taller spring to go on drivers side in the front and fuel tank side in the rear (would be passenger side for me) - I saw a thread discussing how this method can result in lop sided trucks as well. Ugh.

Should I just go for it and plan on installing spacers if it doesn't work out?
 
The difference should be minimal, which as mentioned can be fixed with various shim methods. I wouldn't stress over it too much.
 
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