Oil Separator Not Separating

[donb]

The last couple of months I have been having an issue on my OM617.


I've tried a few oil separating setups and I cannot get anything to work well.


The latest iteration is:


- Threaded the OM617 valve cover to 1/2" NPT as the stock Mercedes hose would pop off.
- 6" of 3/4" hose to a Moroso #85474 with a drain to oil pan
- 6" of 1" hose to a Mann Provent 200 with a drain to the oil pan ("T"d into the line from the Moroso)


Test driving the 110 tonight I found:



- At idle the air coming out of the Mann was pretty clear.

- First test run can came back and some vapor but not bad.
- Second test run I got on the 110 a little bringing rev's to over 4,000 rpms and boost to 20psi. Got back to the house and there was oil spray all over from the exit hose of the Mann (not the drain hose).


I know I need to route the exit hose of the Mann to the intake pipe (post air filter) but I'm not sure that will be good based on volume of oil. This was a short 2 mile drive so cannot imagine the amount of oil on a longer drive.


I'm getting a little worn out working on this setup. I still need to remove the HX30 turbo and try and figure how to install the HE221. Then another downpipe



Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Red90]

Excessive blow by.

 

[Jeff B]

Excessive blow by.

that's not good, is it?




.

 

[donb]

Excessive blow by.

That's kind of what I figured.


Not sure if I should swap the head (I'm thinking valve seats) or drop some MMO into the cylinders or a BG109 treatment to see if the rings free up. The engine starts right up and runs well.

 

[1of40]

That's kind of what I figured.


Not sure if I should swap the head (I'm thinking valve seats) or drop some MMO into the cylinders or a BG109 treatment to see if the rings free up. The engine starts right up and runs well.

We have to admire these precious gifts that keep giving. I'm holding my breath a bit cause I'm in the middle of a nice long stretch with no drama re my two ancient Rovers. Been driving the tdi to work daily, except on rain days, going on three months while my youngest use the 90 until he finds a decent D1 to take a gamble on.

 

[donb]

that's not good, is it?

No

 

[vintagepatina]

blowby is cause by compression getting into the crank case. this is essentially only possible if the rings or cylinder walls are worn. if its valve seats, the engine will have poor compression by losing it back into the intake or exhaust around the valve, not into the crankcase.

some oil separators need vacuum to work properly, creating the "cyclone" effect to spin the oil out and down the drain tube. it's possible that yours is not working properly without being hooked up to the intake. but, i dont specifically know how the om617 breather works.

 

[donb]

We have to admire these precious gifts that keep giving. I'm holding my breath a bit cause I'm in the middle of a nice long stretch with no drama re my two ancient Rovers. Been driving the tdi to work daily, except on rain days, going on three months while my youngest use the 90 until he finds a decent D1 to take a gamble on.

I almost need to Defenders - one to drive while the other is broken or needs work.


I might just say "eff it" and look into the Cummins R2.8. Going to be expensive and some work but it's a new engine. I just want to drive my 110 and do the other things like paint and body and finish the interior.

 

[NPT90]

I almost need to Defenders - one to drive while the other is broken or needs work.


I might just say "eff it" and look into the Cummins R2.8. Going to be expensive and some work but it's a new engine. I just want to drive my 110 and do the other things like paint and body and finish the interior.

I've looked at it and decided it wasn't cost effective (for me)

at $13K for parts thats a whole bunch of body work...

 

[RDavisinVA]

20 PSI boost is too high.
You'll blow a head gasket (if you haven't already) and pressurize the crankcase in an IDI engine with that much boost.
You should keep boost under 16 PSI.

 

[1of40]

I almost need to Defenders - one to drive while the other is broken or needs work.


I might just say "eff it" and look into the Cummins R2.8. Going to be expensive and some work but it's a new engine. I just want to drive my 110 and do the other things like paint and body and finish the interior.

Ha! It?s really sad and true. Life?s too short to not be getting out there when we want to.

 

[donb]

20 PSI boost is too high.
You'll blow a head gasket (if you haven't already) and pressurize the crankcase in an IDI engine with that much boost.
You should keep boost under 16 PSI.

20 psi is too high for the OM617? It seems that the guys on STD say 30psi is the max and a few of the frequent posters are running at 20psi with no ill effects. From what I've read when adding fuel (M pump with 7.5 elements you'd need more boost)?

 

[donb]

I've looked at it and decided it wasn't cost effective (for me)

at $13K for parts thats a whole bunch of body work...

Oh I agree 13k is a ton of money hence I haven't pulled the trigger yet! But seeing the Dirt Every Day videos of the R2.8 installs and how they have been working in the Jeeps is making me very interested