No more clunking? Anyone tried solid halfshafts?

Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Gentlemen,

Have decided its time to eliminate the slack in my drivetrain causing a nice "clunk" that drives me absolutely nuts.

I know this is an almost universal issue with older rovers - more often than not (provided UJ's and A-Frame are in order) it is the drive flanges and half shaft splines wearing out.

I've found a supplier that offers "solid halfshafts" - could it really be this easy? Even after installing new OEM style setups people notice slight play at the wheels.

lofclutches.com

2x Defender Solid HD Rear Drive Half Shafts - LOF Clutches

<strong>We just had to supply these- Every Defender owner needs a set!</strong> These HD rear shafts are solid, fixed one piece, meaning no clunking!! <h4>Fits Defender 90 AND (110/130 ONLY ONES FITTED WITH A REAR ROVER AXLE)</h4> <strong>Designed for 24 spline diffs. These will fit all TDCI...
lofclutches.com lofclutches.com

I was able to find an old thread on these but it seems to have died.

If anyone's used these and had success please let me know!

Thanks everyone!
 
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rocky

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
How are your UJs? Are your Splines worn?

I had to rebuild my front a year ago. You couldn't tell how bad the splines were until I pulled it off the truck.

The transfer case wears as well....
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Appreciate the advice! I've got all fresh greasable UJ's. I dont notice any play from the joints themselves. I'm going to pull my hubs tonight to check the splines. Sounds like the drive members/flanges tend to wear out before the half shafts? Wondering if I should be doing the HD ones I see floating around.

I suppose if there's still slack after replacing these I have a bit more to sort out
 
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jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I would unbolt the the PTO cover on the transfer case and slide the input gear out. I bet the splines on the gear and the transmission are worn
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
From the Ashcroft website...
I have a Tdi 90 and it "clunks" when I take up drive. Why?

The most common cause is worn mainshaft spline but other things to check the A frame ball joint and the halfshaft drive flanges, especially if you have a 300 tdi Defender. To check mainshaft spline wear remove the PTO cover and with the main box in first gear rock the car backwards and forwards whilst looking into the end of the input gear. If the spline is worn you will see movement of the shaft in relation to the gear. Replace the gearbox and transfer box input gear (use a cross drilled gear to prevent recurrence of the problem).
Click to expand...
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
jymmiejamz said:
I would unbolt the the PTO cover on the transfer case and slide the input gear out. I bet the splines on the gear and the transmission are worn
Click to expand...
Sounds like this can be done without pulling the box?

I've ordered proline replacement drive flanges from RN - Its all they have. Should arrive tomorrow. Will see how they mate with the halfshafts and if there's still play I'll go for those next. (Thanks Rocky and Napalm)

I feel like I remember reading that early LT230's are sometimes drilled to allow for better lubrication of the input gear?
Edit: I see they're replaced with cross-drilled input gears - Thank You!
 
MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Classic4X4 said:
Sounds like this can be done without pulling the box?

I've ordered proline replacement drive flanges from RN - Its all they have. Should arrive tomorrow. Will see how they mate with the halfshafts and if there's still play I'll go for those next. (Thanks Rocky and Napalm)

I feel like I remember reading that early LT230's are sometimes drilled to allow for better lubrication of the input gear?
Edit: I see they're replaced with cross-drilled input gears - Thank You!
Click to expand...
Although it is possible to drill them out yourself, you fill find it to be very tough metal (for those that want to try...) and best to replace. There is also a replacement PTO cover that has some groves and what not put into it as a "fix" that throws oil onto the gears supposedly that you can replace the cover with. I had one at one point but got a newer box and don't think I kept that cover. Just some info...
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
MountainD said:
Although it is possible to drill them out yourself, you fill find it to be very tough metal (for those that want to try...) and best to replace. There is also a replacement PTO cover that has some groves and what not put into it as a "fix" that throws oil onto the gears supposedly that you can replace the cover with. I had one at one point but got a newer box and don't think I kept that cover. Just some info...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. It looks like if I have an early enough unit I cannot fit the cross-drilled 26 spline input gear. If this is the case it looks like Ashcroft also sells that plate. Will also be checking the serial number tonight to make sure.

Very exciting to go after this clunk. If I'm able to eradicate or greatly improve it'll be fantastic.
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Did a bit of recon tonight:

Some good news:

1 My Lt230 Serial number is a suffix C - so I can install the drilled input gear

2 I got underneath and gave the A-Frame a nice push pull up and down and heard a clunk - I've never been happier to see a busted part. I believe the term for this is KNACKERED! - probably hasn't been touched since Solihull - Tried to attach a video but seems Iphone videos wont post here

Some hmm news:

Jacked up the rear near side axle with the parking brake on - the wheel had some play maybe 20*- I could hear splines engaging and disengaging as I rocked it back and forth at the diff and a slight noise at the drive flange. I will get a visual when I pull the wheels on wednesday and install the new flanges. My guess is if they are worn, I'll need new half shafts as well as I hear these tend to wear together.

Think the A-Frame ball joint will make a big difference? Buying the Gwynn Lewis kit right now - seems to be the best unit available

A-Frame Ball Joint, Greasable & Adjustable In Housing Inc Bolts, GL1079 – GwynLewis4x4.co.uk

gwynlewis4x4.co.uk gwynlewis4x4.co.uk

Thanks guys
 
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Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
All of that is good news.

My suggestion is to buy the A-frame ball joint on the bracket it's a lot easier to install. Also if the bolts are ugly looking get a new set of the long bolts that attach the bracket to the arms.

There are a bunch of how-to's on ways to replace it. I find the easiest way is to loosen the nut with a short socket and keep it on. Then use a pickle fork and a big fucking hammer to separate it. I have never had luck driving with it loose to get it to pop free.

As long as the splines on the shaft are square with no perceptible wear by eye they're probably good. The drive flanges are made of considerably softer metal and are designed to wear first.
 
MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I’m about to do my A-frame and I’ve put it off a while. Ditto on all the above. I also use a pickle fork. Only other bit I’ll add is take truck to self wash (or use a hose) and hit all the areas you’ll be working on first and get some grime off. I do this whenever I’m gonna spend some time under the truck.
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Napalm00 said:
All of that is good news.

My suggestion is to buy the A-frame ball joint on the bracket it's a lot easier to install. Also if the bolts are ugly looking get a new set of the long bolts that attach the bracket to the arms.

There are a bunch of how-to's on ways to replace it. I find the easiest way is to loosen the nut with a short socket and keep it on. Then use a pickle fork and a big fucking hammer to separate it. I have never had luck driving with it loose to get it to pop free.

As long as the splines on the shaft are square with no perceptible wear by eye they're probably good. The drive flanges are made of considerably softer metal and are designed to wear first.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much - this is crazy helpful. Great tip with keeping the nut on. And mountain D - will definitely hit it with the pressure washer (and a ton of PB) while I wait for the parts. I bought the Gwynn Lewis mud guards a few weeks ago and they arrived in days. DHL has been absolutely on point with deliveries while everyone else seems to be making excuses!
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Little update here - Installed the new drive flange and it was definitely snug, required some force to slide them on. The old drive flanges were actually fairly tight - minimal play, but I know even a small amount at the flange translates to much more at the wheel. The half-shaft splines looked superb so no issue there. The PO overhauled the hubs ~5 years ago before I bought the truck (he was a buddy) so nothing concerning. While I was at it I figured I'd just replace all of the bearings and seals so she's nice and fresh.

Gwyn Lewis A frame ball joint (in housing) is on the way. I'm going to install it when I do the OME lift next week. Still struggling with whether or not to return my kit (the springs are handed) and buy a matched set. As it is, my drivers side sits ~1/2" lower so I might just throw the handed springs on and worst case end up putting disco isolators to level it out if needed.

There doesn't seem to be a consensus on whether or not handed springs make sense or not.

If she still has a "clunk" when the ball joint goes in, I'll start looking into the rear diff and the T-Case

I have a set of 24 spline disco 1 axles just sitting in my garage. Wondering if that diff can swap over in a WCS

Thanks again for the help gentlemen. I'll throw some photos in the thread to keep it interesting.

Cheers
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
1AF67414-9E37-4D54-93DC-1F8BF4C28A95.jpeg
F39F8D04-BA5F-4FE8-8788-C0897A557E2A.jpeg
FF49C218-4BF8-4084-BFF3-31C0BB2AB28F.jpeg

Was refreshing to see nice healthy splines
Pic 1: diff end of half shaft
Pic 2: old drive flange and me refusing to wear gloves because it’s “just not the same”
Pic 3: Flange end of half Shaft (looks like PO installed heavy duty)

🍻
 
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MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I get where your heads at— and it’s a tough job removing drive train slack. the Banging is most likely your aframe ball joint, but the slack... unfortunately there is an abysmal amount (relatively) that is in nearly all trans/transfer cases so even with near perfect axles, diffs, flanges, uj’s, you will still get some from there and the natural backlash in the diffs that will be there (intentional—small but there...)☹️. I’m not going to discourage you from doing all those things though! Still great to have your truck so up to snuff, but will say if the parts look good (as the above do), keep them as spares for yourself of others! Im accused by wife of being a pack rat. Everytime she sees me put away rusted steel bits she literally goes “Squeak Squeak!”. And yet now that I’m doing another repower, lo and behold I have all 4 of the trans mounts in a box that I need (who knew?)! let us know the outcome! I bet it’ll be loads better, just don’t be too discouraged when you can still rotate your driveshaft a bit when parked.
 
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