erover82
Well-known member
If you have the clutch fan, you need the shroud. It’s much larger than the 300.
NAS V8 E-Fan Conversion
- Thread starter 1of40
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If you have the clutch fan, you need the shroud. It’s much larger than the 300.
I misread your post. Didn’t realize you’d use the 300 Tdi shroud on your 200 Tdi
I swapped to the Alisport alum radiator with Revo fans. I cut an alum sheet as fan shroud - bc Revo kit didn't come with shroud.
Unfortunately for me, things aren't working with the radiator as it leaks (weeps at a few spots). I posted about the issue before. The fans seem to work well for the most part - keeping temp at 200F and below. I also found if I unlock/unlatch the hood (allow a small crack for venting) helps keep under hood temp in check.
However, when the truck is climbing switchbacks, it'll get hot-hot (215F). So, i have to stop, pop the hood and let things get back to norm.. then go. Kind of annoying.
Now, I'm planning to have the local radiator shop add another row/core to the factory copper radiator and see how that works out. I also wondered if the weepy radiator is contributing to overheat during switchback climbs. I also have a dual Ford Contour fan in the garage that I may try after replacing the radiator.
Unfortunately for me, things aren't working with the radiator as it leaks (weeps at a few spots). I posted about the issue before. The fans seem to work well for the most part - keeping temp at 200F and below. I also found if I unlock/unlatch the hood (allow a small crack for venting) helps keep under hood temp in check.
However, when the truck is climbing switchbacks, it'll get hot-hot (215F). So, i have to stop, pop the hood and let things get back to norm.. then go. Kind of annoying.
Now, I'm planning to have the local radiator shop add another row/core to the factory copper radiator and see how that works out. I also wondered if the weepy radiator is contributing to overheat during switchback climbs. I also have a dual Ford Contour fan in the garage that I may try after replacing the radiator.
On a V8 Discovery I don’t think the condenser fans even come on until it hits 212F
1of40
Well-known member
Actually 234* per the AC workshop manual on a 97NAS, which I would assume is similar. Installed a manual override switch. I'm headed to the National Rally in a couple of weeks and thought it might be of some use on long steep climbs but I'm not expecting miracles. Turning on the defrost blower probably has about the same effect
Are you sure? I thought that was the temperature that the fuel injection ecu kills the compressor. On 14CUX defenders the switch in the thermostat housing does this.
Now I’m even more confused. What manual are you reading this in? I’m not debating you (I’m just going from memory after all), just curious where you found this.
I don’t know why they would have an upper threshold of when the fans cuts off
I don’t know why they would have an upper threshold of when the fans cuts off
1of40
Well-known member
*compressor clutch not fan.
Grover
Well-known member
Interesting; however, how would one activate electronic the clutch in an older Rover?
rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
I recall a press day drive of Land Rovers where Journalists complained that the AC shut down when temperatures rose above 100….
"It's a Land Rover thing. you wouldn't understand."
Same way one would activate electric fans.
I don't know (a) if the attachment is the same (thread, nut size) and (b) if there's enough room between the front of this clutch and radiator.
But being able to switch off the engine-driven fan would be a boon in very cold weather and for water crossings.
What an interesting solution. I believe these units are similar to the clutches we're used to in using a silicone fluid differing in that the valve controlling the fluid circuit is itself controlled by a solenoid rather than a bi-metal spring. The hall effect speed sensor in the fan outputs a square wave signal used (along with coolant temp, AC status, etc. etc.) to control pulse width modulated DC to the solenoid. Shouldn't be too difficult to make the electrical side of this work especially if only coolant temp was of concern.
1of40
Well-known member
Electric water pumps are an interesting thought as well. Sarek, in Richmond has done a few installs with what the owner I met said was helpful.
Do you have any links?
I thought about it for a little bit - an electric water pump may be a better alternative to engine-driven one. My daughter was terrified once when the water pump bearing failed and the belt slipped off in her Classic.
Just like electric-powered brake booster in a Classic or P38.