LR3 Electrical Issues

waveridin1959

Well-known member
I've just started having some electrical issues in the LR3. Coming back from the beach after the 4th, the Radio/Nav would cut off and on over and over again. The clock in the gauge cluster also read --:--. Since everything in these trucks are integrated this made sense other things would quit working.

A couple week prior I had replaced a dead Interstate with a Duralast Platinum. Truck was running fine until this fault. I also switched out the 19 wheels for 18s without the pressure sensor. I also plugged my fridge in the rear outlet while we were packing up to start cooling down. Maybe the draw of the fridge on the battery threw something off?

I have 12 odd volts when the truck is off. I have 13 plus when its running. I borrowed a GAP tool from Rob Lynch and have the following faults I am guessing pertain to this.


Instrument Pack

U0010-87 (2E) Medium speed CAN communication bus - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0132-87 (2C) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0159-87 (28) Lost communication with parking assist control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0127-87 (28) Lost communication with tire pressure monitor module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0184-87 (2F) Lost communication with audio unit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
B1A87-68 (28) Battery disconnection/electronic control unit reset - Algorithm based failure - event information


Im I looking at some CAN Bus issue? I know it sends the signal to the Head Unit when you turn the key as long as the battery is putting out over 12.3 volts. Can something wonky be going on with the voltage from the battery even though the system is showing 12.3 plus?

I'm used to the simple D1 and 90. We've had nothing but luck with the LR3 until this.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Give it a hard reset, those faults are on mine most of the time.

And your battery volt is LOW, 12.3v is near dead get it checked, when running mine is over 13-13.5. had one of those duracost batteries in the Jag only lasted two years. Running interstate now in the D3
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
How are you getting your bat info? obd or infocentre? still thinking you need to get the batt checked out. my D3 did throw a shit fit when the old batt was low.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Is the vehicle currently acting up or is it intermittent? Sounds like your medium speed CAN bus is going down.
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
How are you getting your bat info? obd or infocentre? still thinking you need to get the batt checked out. my D3 did throw a shit fit when the old batt was low.
Battery is a month old. Had no problems for two or three weeks.

Is the vehicle currently acting up or is it intermittent? Sounds like your medium speed CAN bus is going down.
It's constant. How do you replace the med can bus? I don't even know where it is. Stupid computers.

I thought about trying a different battery to see if it's the prob. But I'm getting 13 plus when it's running.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
It's constant. How do you replace the med can bus? I don't even know where it is. Stupid computers.
The CAN bus is the communication wires that connect the modules in the car and is part of the body harness. A module could be the problem, or the harness itself should have a problem. How are you with a volt meter? I can tell you what to check and what readings you should see.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Have you by chance had bad rain storm? How are the sun roof drains? Pull up the carpet on the pass side and and check for wetness where the loom runs along the floor, check the little stuff first. Need to ask if you have been playing with settings with the Gap?
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
The CAN bus is the communication wires that connect the modules in the car and is part of the body harness. A module could be the problem, or the harness itself should have a problem. How are you with a volt meter? I can tell you what to check and what readings you should see.
I've gotten pretty good with a mulitmeter. The Defender has made sure of it.

Have you by chance had bad rain storm? How are the sun roof drains? Pull up the carpet on the pass side and and check for wetness where the loom runs along the floor, check the little stuff first. Need to ask if you have been playing with settings with the Gap?

I've left it alone. The only setting I changed was after all this. I just turned off Tire Pressure Warning.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Okay I'll give you some checks to do through the diagnostic connector.

With the vehicle running, check to see what the voltage is at pin 3 and pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.

Next, with the battery disconnected, check the resistance between pins 3 and 11.

Next check resistance from pin 3 to ground (door striker or seat from would work).

Do the same with pin 11 to ground.

Now check resistance between pin 3 and pin 16 (this is battery power)

Do the same with pin 11 to pin 16.

Report back with all of the results.
 

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waveridin1959

Well-known member
Okay I'll give you some checks to do through the diagnostic connector.

With the vehicle running, check to see what the voltage is at pin 3 and pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.

Next, with the battery disconnected, check the resistance between pins 3 and 11.

Next check resistance from pin 3 to ground (door striker or seat from would work).

Do the same with pin 11 to ground.

Now check resistance between pin 3 and pin 16 (this is battery power)

Do the same with pin 11 to pin 16.

Report back with all of the results.
As far as voltage is concerned I was getting .3 - .29 volts. I will need to pull the cables to check resistance.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
You definitely have a CAN bus problem. Do the other checks and report back. You probably have a short to ground in the harness.
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Pin 3 to Ground i was getting 19 on 2000K
Pin 11 to ground was around 900 2000K
3 and 11 to 16 couldn't get a good reading
Battery 12.4 volts. Battery 14.2 when truck is running.

Pulled trim and felt under passenger side carpet and it was dry.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
What about pin 3 to pin 11 resistance?

Anything over 500 ohms is good when checking resistance to ground, or power (pin 16). This likely rules out a short to ground or short to power.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Pin 3 to Ground i was getting 19 on 2000K
Pin 11 to ground was around 900 2000K
3 and 11 to 16 couldn't get a good reading
Battery 12.4 volts. Battery 14.2 when truck is running.

Pulled trim and felt under passenger side carpet and it was dry.
As for the carpet did you pull it up at the edge? As there is a channel the wires run along and it can be full or seen to have water sitting which feeling can not do, just a suggestion. There has so much talk about on the D3 forum. Ours was wet when we first got it as the roof drain had pulled apart.
 
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