erover82
Well-known member
There was some interest in the engine stand adapter I developed for my 90 project, so I'd like to gauge overall interest. It fits 2.25, 2.5, and 200 Tdi engines with the clutch cover installed. 300 Tdi may fit with a few of the studs removed. It may fit others but I cannot guarantee it. If your interest hinges on compatibility with 300 Tdi or Rover V8 engines, let me know. Price will be around $120 + shipping depending on how much interest is gathered.
I never liked how engine stands attach to LR 4cyl blocks with the clutch cover installed. It seems like a lot of weight, sitting too far from the stand, and pulling on only a few studs in an aluminum casting.
Here is an example of the issue. As the engine is built up, more and more weight is added far away from the mounting plane, and the center of gravity shifts upward causing the engine to violently swing downward if rotating the engine. Annoyingly, most stands will also require you to remove studs, replace them with long compatible bolts, and then reinstall studs when done.
After many hours working out a solution, this was the result.
The adapter is laser cut from 1/4" A36 steel with 4 studs pressed in. It uses the common engine stand bolt pattern seen above. The mount addresses the center of gravity issue by mounting the engine as low as possible, meaning turning the engine is much safer. This also moves the engine closes to the mounting plane so less stress is put on the engine stand and less flex and bounce is noticed while working on an engine.
The adapter includes several access cutouts to key areas. The top left cutout allows one to observe the starter to flywheel gear engagement. The top right hole is for Series timing plug access.
The bottom access hole is for the Tdi timing plug. The hole to the left allows one to lock up the flywheel for torquing or loosening the crankshaft bolt.
I never liked how engine stands attach to LR 4cyl blocks with the clutch cover installed. It seems like a lot of weight, sitting too far from the stand, and pulling on only a few studs in an aluminum casting.
Here is an example of the issue. As the engine is built up, more and more weight is added far away from the mounting plane, and the center of gravity shifts upward causing the engine to violently swing downward if rotating the engine. Annoyingly, most stands will also require you to remove studs, replace them with long compatible bolts, and then reinstall studs when done.
After many hours working out a solution, this was the result.
The adapter is laser cut from 1/4" A36 steel with 4 studs pressed in. It uses the common engine stand bolt pattern seen above. The mount addresses the center of gravity issue by mounting the engine as low as possible, meaning turning the engine is much safer. This also moves the engine closes to the mounting plane so less stress is put on the engine stand and less flex and bounce is noticed while working on an engine.
The adapter includes several access cutouts to key areas. The top left cutout allows one to observe the starter to flywheel gear engagement. The top right hole is for Series timing plug access.
The bottom access hole is for the Tdi timing plug. The hole to the left allows one to lock up the flywheel for torquing or loosening the crankshaft bolt.
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