Lizard Skin sound proofing

El Pinchi

Well-known member
Anyone use this stuff and got good results? It appears to be very good and more efficient way of applying it. Main goal for me is sound deadening and heat on a gas NAS 110.

feedback, pics?
Thanks Eddie
 

El Pinchi

Well-known member
I read through most of it and it started to go off topic. I think its still my first choice. 'the only crappy thing is how long it going to take with prep., drying, and assembly again. After your done with your truck let me know and you can do mine:).

when are you going to do it?
 

LR Max

Well-known member
I went with Al's heat and noise reducer in my Ex-Mod 109. I just covered the interior front area.

It has helped. Al's is basically the same stuff, just cheaper. I got my gallon off amazon, which as you probably know, helps on the logistics side.

First off, its painting. So its a paint, especially if you don't have a place to do it you're screwed. I probably didn't put enough coating down as everything I read said it needed to be about as thick as a credit card. I didn't do this. I'm fixing to put in a Wright Off Road mat, so I might go back and add a few extra layers. I think I did about 4 layers or so with a brush and roller. Might do another 4 layers.

Overall it has made a bit of a difference. I no longer have horrible transfer case whine in low range (suffix B straight cut gears in low range) and it has removed some bad transmission noises when around town. Seriously, off road, the whine was so bad I'd put in my earbuds. Granted, I have no other sound proofing yet installed in my 109...but...soon...

At highway, I do notice a reduction in higher tone noises. However, its still an non-insulated 109, so it still sucks. But I did notice with my ear buds, I now have the volume at about 3~4 notches lower. So I'd say I'm probably at about 20% lower volume than before.I don't have any dB numbers, but that is the only gauge I have. I know, useless but it does show change.

I didn't disassemble the dash, so there isn't any coating back there. I'm sure that would help.

There was a significant heat reduction benefit. I'm pleased with that.

I would say if you are gonna do it and have the place to do the work, and spray in the coating. I did brushes and rollers. That sucked. But I can't be spraying paint in my garage like that, so it is what it is.

If I was painting a rover, I'd have the body shop spray this stuff through the entire interior, sand it smooth, then the paint color. Oh yeah, this stuff isn't exactly smooth when you are done. On my 109...I don't care and I'm about to cover it in a mat. If this matters, then expect to sand it.

Overall I think its worth it. Doesn't really add weight or interior bulk. Helps with noise and heat well. In the future, if I were to sound proof another car, this would be my first step, especially if I was doing paint work or tearing out the interior for whatever reason.

Moving forward, I'm going to use dynamat or like product on the front two doors. I did paint these with the noise reducer stuff, and it does make a difference. However dynamat would provide a nice feel to my doors when they close. Instead of feeling like a piece of flimsy tin, my goal is to make them more solid. I'll then put some MLV over that, and cover with a canvas door card.

As mentioned before, I'll probably put another coat of Al's down. Then install the Wright off road mat. I'll probably then put a piece of MLV on the seat box over the transmission if the mat doesn't work to my liking. Lastly, I'll be cutting and putting down a generic mat in the floorboards. Just because I put my feet in the EXACT same spot everytime, and I'd prefer to destroy a cheap piece of mat vs. the expensive imported molded mat. I've been debating on bonnet insulation, but I haven't figured out how to attach the insulation to the underside of the bonnet without it constantly falling down. I'm sure if I actually google, I can get it figured out, though. My goal is to be able to listen to music and the ham radio at speeds 45 mph and below.
 
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