How To Install Electric Front Windows


Staff member
Here is a step by step guide how I converted my 1989 Defender front door windows from manual to electric using Land Rover parts.
First off here is what I ordered.
Inner door panel RH BDO710020 x1
Inner door panel LH BDO710030 x1
Window Clips STC4787 x4
Electric Window Regulator LH CUH000090 x1
Electric Window Regulator RH CUH000082 x1
3M Window Adhesive Primer 08682
Amazon LInk For Primer
3M Urethane Window Adhesive 08693
Amazon Link For Adhesive
M6 x 25mm Bolts x2
M6 x 10mm Bolts x6
M6 Nuts x8
M6 Flat Washers x10
M6 Rivnuts x6
Wire to make a harness
Momentary Off Momentary DP Switches x2
I used Carling switches to match the rest of my trucks switches.

Here is what my door looked like with the inner door trim removed
IMG_4049 2.jpeg

This part has to go. With the window rolled most of the way down undo the 5 bolts holding the panel in place. Next remove the two screws that hold the inner door latch in place and wiggle it into the hole. Next reach inside and push the rod that it is attached to free from its little retaining clip. Carefully slide the the two bottom arms out of the slide on the bottom of the window. Set the panel aside as you will be moving the nylon screw retainers that hold the armrest and inner door lever in place.

Next up the old window track needs to be removed.
IMG_4050 2.jpeg

I sprayed the gasket with WD40 and dragged a razor blade between it and the glass and started to pull the rail down away from the glass. The right side window took quite a bit of effort and the left came off with very little effort. Once it is off the glass needs to be cleaned off very well for the next step. I wiped it down with brake cleaner to be sure the WD40 was removed.

This is what the end goal should look like.
IMG_4056 2.jpeg

Here is the products you will need on hand
IMG_4053 2.jpeg

IMG_4054 2.jpeg

I removed both rails from the new actuators to make the install easier. Bolt the two plastic tabs to the bottom rail as seen in the picture. You may need to drill out the little dimple on the track to remove them. I then marked the glass with a Sharpie Marker so I knew where to swab on the primer and the adhesive.
IMG_4052 2.jpeg

I used a Q-Tip to apply the primer and a calk gun to spread the glue. I put everything into place and let the window slide down to the bottom of the door to hold everything in place as it dried. The instructions for the adhesive says it takes 48 hours to fully cure so be patient.

Next up you need to cut this tab from the front of the door. I used a cutoff wheel.
IMG_4051 2.jpeg

Now place the new inner panel in place and the top three holes should line up with the threaded holes at the top of the door. Reuse the old bolts and tighten it in place. At the front of the door you will need to drill out a big rivet and make two additional holes and install 3 M6 threaded rivnuts.

Last edited:


Staff member
On the back part of the panel you will need to drill a hole to reuse an existing bracket. I threaded in the 25mm bolt and put a dab of grease on the head. I then pushed the panel against it and marked where to drill the new hole.

This is where the 25mm bolt is used in this order. Bolt with flat washer then installed thru the panel. Then another flat washer, two nuts then turn into the tab on the door. Use the two nuts to make the panel flush with the edge of the door. I used a but of blue LokTite to hold the nuts in place.

Now transfer the plastic bits form the old panel to the new one. They may be brittle so go slow.

Mount the motor to the panel and put a bit of grease on the track. Now would be the time to attach your wiring as it won't be accessible once the panel is in place.

Lastly mount the panel in place and slide the track onto the bottom rollers. A little more grease and the mechanics are done. I would test its function before reinstalling the door card.

I'll update the wiring of the Carling switches later this week.

Last edited:


Staff member
Here is the switches that I used
MudUK link

Switch cover
MudUK link

You may want to use their terminals and blocks but that is your call
MudUK link

The pins are labeled 1 thru 8
Switched power goes to pins 1 - 6
Ground goes to pins 3 - 4 - 7
The window motor goes to pins 2 -5
The backlighting power goes to pin 8

I ran one positive and one ground to each switch and made jumpers from one pole to the next. If your switch is working backwards reverse the wires on pins 2 and 5.

That should just about cover it. If you find this writeup useful, please click the like button. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them. I'm sure others will eventually have the same questions.
Last edited:


Well-known member
1. Are your switches lighted? Lighted with lights on, not lighted when lights off?
2. How did you route wiring from door to bulkhead?



Staff member
1. Are your switches lighted? Lighted with lights on, not lighted when lights off?
2. How did you route wiring from door to bulkhead?

Just backlit. Wired under the truck, thru the A pillar then into the front of the door.


Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
Thanks! This is on my todo list. I was going to go with the conversion kit (Lucky8 and Masaii sell them). Why did you go this route?


Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
the universal belt drive version do look cheese and a bit fragile. But the retailers below look to have the same kit that is gear driven like OEM. apparently requires a small cutout from existing panel (Masaii shared the directions). sharing for further discussion

Rovers North


Well-known member
Trying to add the grommets to the door cards. Anyone know how theses are attached to the door card?


  • 4467A04A-7EB9-4AA4-951E-43B61D0F0247.jpeg
    269.6 KB · Views: 28
  • CD2C5ADA-8AF4-488A-AAE4-A94EE47AE424.jpeg
    226.3 KB · Views: 24


Technical Excellence Contributor
Those are the ones for post 2002…. However…it goes into a metal plate and the metal plate goes on the backside and is held on by those to plastic poke throughs.
Last edited:
could you use your existing door panel if you cut it away to make room for the motor?

bout to go on this journey after having the parts in my garage for years ha!

John Z

Well-known member
so I ended ups copying you pretty much. I had picked up the power window kit awhile ago and this post pushed me to actually install it. I picked up some parts from sp4x4 because they were cheap. the inner door foam for post 02 doors fits my old doors no problem,.

So I was going to install the OEM power locks that I ordered from sp4x4 but then I got worried about reliability after readying so I am trying an aftermarket kit found on ebay uk. (seller bolt on bits, this also includes a rear door unlock) don't get the kit that has the clicker, its useless, its clicker is attached to a key blank that don't fit my lock barrel. I was kinda annoyed about it.

To make the square hole I used a 20MM hole saw and a nipper I picked up on amazon, it seemed to do the trick. I currently have the windows wired, im currently waiting on a relay kit to operate the power locks.


  • IMG_20221205_160106790.jpg
    125.5 KB · Views: 25
  • IMG_20221205_160114002.jpg
    108.6 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_20221207_085430909.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_20221207_124625408.jpg
    135.9 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_20221207_144419240.jpg
    174.8 KB · Views: 25