Glass Fuse Conversion

[The Dro]

Found this when I was looking for parts for my Blue Sea blade fuse block.

Seems pretty nice to do these if you don't want to spend a lot of time installing 2 new fuse blocks.

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH30265/

 

[chris snell]

Ewww. It's also worth noting that the standard auto parts store glass fuses (presumably made for older American cars) do not fit in our Defenders. You will need the British-sized ones, which you can get from British Wiring.

It's really not that awful to do the conversion. It's just a matter of having the right spade connectors and going slowly, one wire moved over at a time.

 

[Uncle Douglas]

Found this when I was looking for parts for my Blue Sea blade fuse block.

Seems pretty nice to do these if you don't want to spend a lot of time installing 2 new fuse blocks.

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH30265/

The problem with the early style fuses is the poor connection achieved pendejo.
With the inserts you link you would convert to the new style fuse but gain no reliabilty with your electrics.

 

[The_Vermonster]

Ewww. It's also worth noting that the standard auto parts store glass fuses (presumably made for older American cars) do not fit in our Defenders. You will need the British-sized ones, which you can get from British Wiring.

It's also important to know that the American and British fuses are rated in different ways. The American fuses are rated for the load they can carry. British fuses are rated for the load at which they will blow.

[B]Bussman Conversion Chart[/B]

English Type    American Standard Replacement    
50 amp              AGC 30    
35 amp              AGC 25    
30 amp              AGC 20    
25 amp              AGC 15    
20 amp              AGC 10    
10 amp              AGC  7 1/2     
5 amp               AGC  3

Or just use this chart.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Or just use this chart.

Hahah, I was going to post the same thing.

 

[Roverman2010]

Like this is fine, have seen it before.

 

[The_Vermonster]

How many amps can a screwdriver bit handle?

 

[javelinadave]

It's the equivalent of 2 gauge so I'm guessing at least 600 amps.

 

[chris snell]

That down-rating chart is very useful. I should downgrade most of my 15A fuses to 10's, which reminds me: order a collection of Ancor fuses as spares for my trip.

 

[The Dro]

Like this is fine, have seen it before. https://nas-row.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1879&d=1492350618

My truck came with 6 of the 12 fuses with a wire welded.

That's why I got the Blue Sea blocks.

Anywhoo... you guys are haters... I prefer that fugly shit vs the nail.

It can be a very good spare part to have in a pinch.

 

[DJOHN]

It looks like I've come to the right place. My wife just bought a 1988 90 TD, and this is what I found when I started investigating an intermittent brake light fault.

 

[The Dro]

It looks like I've come to the right place. My wife just bought a 1988 90 TD, and this is what I found when I started investigating an intermittent brake light fault.

Mine had the same Italian Engineering.

 

[DJOHN]

Mine had the same Italian Engineering.

The fuse panel in the photo belonged to a vehicle that was, in fact, imported from northern Italy.

Thanks to this discussion, however, it now looks like this:

 

[DJOHN]

It's also important to know that the American and British fuses are rated in different ways. The American fuses are rated for the load they can carry. British fuses are rated for the load at which they will blow.

So would these Lucas fuses considered 8A or 15A? And what what would be a suitable regular blade type fuse equivalent?

 

[The Dro]

So would these Lucas fuses considered 8A or 15A? And what what would be a suitable regular blade type fuse equivalent?

John,

Lucas fuses have two ratings... Continuous and Instantaneous, 8A and 15A, respectively. Meaning that you can draw 8A until the cows come home and 15A for a short period of time. (that time only God knows with these people).

The job of a fuse is to protect the wires... The wire sizes for Defenders are roughly 18 AWG (tail lamps, side lamps and instrument wiring) and 14 AWG (headlamps, horns and aux lighting). Which are around 8A and 17A...

Anywhooo... I'm going with the 7.5A and 15A blade fuses. You can buys these at Walmart.

 

[RBBailey]

That's why I got the Blue Sea blocks.

Did you use Blue Sea blocks in place of the factory fuses?

I have thought of doing that, but am unsure if they fit under the cover. If you have pics, I'd love to see them.

 

[Napalm00]

It looks like I've come to the right place. My wife just bought a 1988 90 TD, and this is what I found when I started investigating an intermittent brake light fault.

wow !

 

[The Dro]

Did you use Blue Sea blocks in place of the factory fuses?

I have thought of doing that, but am unsure if they fit under the cover. If you have pics, I'd love to see them.

Yes. I got me two of these: http://a.co/j9tTtUM

I carefully removed the old fuse block and transitioned the circuits to the two Blue Sea blocks.

If I had to do this again, I will not use the Blue Sea. I'd use the OE one.

https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PRC4826

 

[chris snell]

Ugh, don't put a Blue Sea block in place of the stock fuse panel. Buy the correct factory spade fuse block and try to maintain the order of the fuses so that the next owner has some chance of figuring out WTF is going on.

 

[RBBailey]

I know what you mean, but I was thinking about it the other day because I have a Blue Sea fuse block that is the same single row, and I think the same number in the row, as what I have in the stock set up. So it would still be the same layout as what my stock fuse map shows on the inside of the cover. And the one blade fuse block I saw someone else do, seemed to be lower quality build than the Blue Sea stuff.

So why do you say you would use the OE block if you did it again? (Other than the good point that Chris brought up.)