GynormousMellon
Well-known member
So I should have done toe out then? How much and why that compared to toe in?
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Front end alignment
- Thread starter Jeff B
- Start date
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AdamSanta85
Well-known member
Anyone have a link to the string alignment method they used? I think I am going to try to do it this weekend. It's been on my nag list.
GynormousMellon
Well-known member
Copy and paste below. This is what I used and easy.
Credit to Overlander (mark kellgren)
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f14/wheel-alignment-50225.html
This is exactly how I did mine after researching different methods. I found this one on youtube, and it worked like a charm, easy to do and is damn near spot on.
you use virtually any string on spool that you can pull tight (kite string, yard string, etc). put one lift jack in front of each tire a couple feet in front of it. Tie the string to one jack at hub height, then run the string along the front and rear hubs, around the back, and then along the hubs on the opposite side. Tie the string to the other jack. Adjust both jacks left or right so that the string on each side touches the front sidewall on the front tire for that side. If you parked straight, then your wheels are aligned when you see the string on each side of the D touch both front and rear sidewalls on each tire (4x touches per side). If your front tires are not aligned, then align the passenger side (where the tie rod and drag link both connect) by turning the steering wheel until the string touches both front and rear sidewall on the right front tire. On the opposite drag (driver) side, you should only see one side wall touch (either front or rear sidewall). Adjust the tie rod out or in until the string touches both. Recheck the passenger side alignment. when string hits both fronts twice, you are aligned.
Credit to Overlander (mark kellgren)
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f14/wheel-alignment-50225.html
This is exactly how I did mine after researching different methods. I found this one on youtube, and it worked like a charm, easy to do and is damn near spot on.
you use virtually any string on spool that you can pull tight (kite string, yard string, etc). put one lift jack in front of each tire a couple feet in front of it. Tie the string to one jack at hub height, then run the string along the front and rear hubs, around the back, and then along the hubs on the opposite side. Tie the string to the other jack. Adjust both jacks left or right so that the string on each side touches the front sidewall on the front tire for that side. If you parked straight, then your wheels are aligned when you see the string on each side of the D touch both front and rear sidewalls on each tire (4x touches per side). If your front tires are not aligned, then align the passenger side (where the tie rod and drag link both connect) by turning the steering wheel until the string touches both front and rear sidewall on the right front tire. On the opposite drag (driver) side, you should only see one side wall touch (either front or rear sidewall). Adjust the tie rod out or in until the string touches both. Recheck the passenger side alignment. when string hits both fronts twice, you are aligned.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
I assume need to jack the tires up to adjust?
Kills me that there is no "steering box is definitely centered" indicator
GynormousMellon
Well-known member
Left mine on the ground. I did drive onto 2 separate pieces of cardboard under each tire. Made it easier for the wheels to move during adjustment
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MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
My full method is pretty simple. Pull as straight ahead as possible. Stop the truck. Take off the drag link from the steering arm. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (talking LHD truck). Go two full revolutions to the left. This centers your steering box. Adjust drag link so that it will now reconnect. Your steering box is now centered and your wheels are still facing straight forward. Use the string method and set for 1/4" toe out by adjusting track bar. Take off steering wheel and get it damn close to straight ahead--as close as it can get. Adjust small other increment if you are OCD from the drag link so that your steering wheel goes straight ahead when you are driving straight ahead. This is a 3 beer job. If you can finish it in 1 beer or less, you are not doing it right--you will just be asked to do other chores. Don't fall for that bull shit. It takes three beers dammit.
jafir
Founding Member
There is. Post #13 shows it, but I think the comments are wrong... it says the new drop arms don't have the notch, but I've only seen the notch missing on the older RRC/Defender style arms. The newer RRC/defender arms have it. Maybe they mean that the disco style arms don't have it, but some of those do too.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/QFW000030
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
I don't think mine has the notch. Ill look again though.
Edit
-----
Just checked, no notch currently on my truck. I do have a QFW000030 sitting here new in box, it has the notch.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
Not that I can see from up top, nor from what I can remember last time I looked. I am pulling my skid plate tomorrow to install an OME steering damper, and I will take a better look.
For every "new" truck....perform the following. A couple of hours (once you know what to do) to a happy steering system.
1) Put axle on stands and remove wheels. Disconnect drag link at pitman arm.
2) Cycle steering from one extreme of box to other and mark each end.
3) Carefully find center point.
4) If steering wheel is not straight, pull steering wheel and re-center.
5) Check for binding or looseness on steering shaft u-joints and column bearings. Fix, if needed.
6) Adjust steering box preload.
7) Disconnect track rod (rear rod) from both swivel housings. Inspect all TREs at this point. Replace if suspect
8) Adjust wheel bearing preload. Do not use axial play setup method. Use later preload method.
9) Check swivel bearing preload and adjust if needed.
10) Connect all tie rods and install wheels.
11) Check and adjust steering stops so that tires clear the radius arms and swivel seals are not contacting the inside of the swivel.
12) Put wheels on the ground.
13) Check that panhard rod bushings are in good shape and bolts are torqued to spec. Check steering box bolts torque.
14) Check and adjust toe with rear tie rod.
15) Adjust front tie rod to have steering wheel centered while driving on an uncrowned road.
1) Put axle on stands and remove wheels. Disconnect drag link at pitman arm.
2) Cycle steering from one extreme of box to other and mark each end.
3) Carefully find center point.
4) If steering wheel is not straight, pull steering wheel and re-center.
5) Check for binding or looseness on steering shaft u-joints and column bearings. Fix, if needed.
6) Adjust steering box preload.
7) Disconnect track rod (rear rod) from both swivel housings. Inspect all TREs at this point. Replace if suspect
8) Adjust wheel bearing preload. Do not use axial play setup method. Use later preload method.
9) Check swivel bearing preload and adjust if needed.
10) Connect all tie rods and install wheels.
11) Check and adjust steering stops so that tires clear the radius arms and swivel seals are not contacting the inside of the swivel.
12) Put wheels on the ground.
13) Check that panhard rod bushings are in good shape and bolts are torqued to spec. Check steering box bolts torque.
14) Check and adjust toe with rear tie rod.
15) Adjust front tie rod to have steering wheel centered while driving on an uncrowned road.