Front end alignment
- Thread starter Jeff B
- Start date
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
If you have a stock panhard bar there in only two areas of adjustment. The steering track rod and the rear track rod.
the key is that the steering wheel has to be stright and centered lock to lock . Then the steering drag link gets adjusted to make sure the arm is at 11oclock in relation to the box and frame rail on rhd and 1 o'clock on lhd trucks
Then the toe gets adjusted by the track rod length
Any basic shop can do this.
If you have an adjustable panhard then I'd take it to a real 4x4 shop so they can adjust the thrust angle of the front axle . Here I prefer to go to a shop that has a computerized machine like a hunter so you know the before and after.
the key is that the steering wheel has to be stright and centered lock to lock . Then the steering drag link gets adjusted to make sure the arm is at 11oclock in relation to the box and frame rail on rhd and 1 o'clock on lhd trucks
Then the toe gets adjusted by the track rod length
Any basic shop can do this.
If you have an adjustable panhard then I'd take it to a real 4x4 shop so they can adjust the thrust angle of the front axle . Here I prefer to go to a shop that has a computerized machine like a hunter so you know the before and after.
nas90tdi
Well-known member
I always do it off the rotors. Give it 1/16" toe in. Never had a problem and the few times I took one in, I was told it was so minimally out as to not matter. I have done this across multiple trucks. Adjustable panhard takes a bit more finesse to get perfect.
These are not complicated front ends and really have no adjustment that merits 79.99 for a front end alignment.
These are not complicated front ends and really have no adjustment that merits 79.99 for a front end alignment.
Jeff B
Well-known member
Yeah, no adjustable panhard here. Also, running stock springs with just 1" spacers... so not much lift.
I had it at straight parallel and it actually tracked very well.
Toe out made it a little more squirrely.
Some of my Rover friends swear to go toe out; others say toe in!
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MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm string method too. I've tried all the ways with my 255/85/16---toe in, out, and straight. To be honest, I never seem to go far when doing in or out, in the 1/4" realm give or take. I just couldn't tell much difference. Maybe I am not going far enough, but I just don't think that with mud terrains that it makes a whole lot of difference if everything else is in good order. Currently straight on--ish. I've always tracked well. Only when the tire pressures really vary do things start getting squirely.
Are these "O'clock" views from the top looking down through the engine compartment or from the floor, lying on my back?
Agree with comments above. Adjust the panhard (adjustable version) to center the axle. I use the radius arm to frame difference and then use simple string and also measure either hub and or rotor whichever is easier to double check toe.
Jeff B
Well-known member
My steering wheel has been on and off so many times, I should get one of those NASCAR quick releases.
I just pointed the droparm straight ahead. I figured that is *center*??
Then I did all the aligning with the string method,etc.
Lastly, I went down the street to a big flat parking lot.
Drove slow and straight ahead for a hundred feet or so and stopped.
Removed the steering wheel, aligned it a few degrees to straighten it, and tightened it back down.
Use silver anti-seize on the steering splines so they dont freeze up.
Remember, whenever you remove/replace the steering wheel to check/realign the turn signal canceling ring!
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Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Drop arm measurements are lying on your back looking up. The steering box actually isn't centered when the arm is directly vertical and straight it is lightly off.
Early steering boxes have a notch that a pin can be placed in the back of the steering arm that locates it on the box For to be perfectly centered ( either at 1 or 11 depending on drive side)
It is a minor adjustment but will reduce bump steer.
Edit: Gywn Lewis has a good pic on a Defender being converted to Disco style . But the idea is the same
Early steering boxes have a notch that a pin can be placed in the back of the steering arm that locates it on the box For to be perfectly centered ( either at 1 or 11 depending on drive side)
It is a minor adjustment but will reduce bump steer.
Edit: Gywn Lewis has a good pic on a Defender being converted to Disco style . But the idea is the same
Jeff B
Well-known member
Good to know.
So for a LHD vehicle, the droparm should be slightly off to the drivers/L side?
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GynormousMellon
Well-known member
I just did the string method for my 89 D110. It was a breeze to do!!!! I was a little timid about doing it since this was the first time but what a piece of cake. If anyone is hesitant, just do it. So simple.
When I first tried to do it, one of the track rod ball joints was frozen/rusted solid to the track rod. I replaced both ball joints, the track rod, drag link and the drag link ball joint. The updated versions were beefier then the originals and had a nut that locked down against the rods instead of the clamps on the original. The ball joints also had grease fittings. Win all the way around. (TIP: Put anti-seize on the threads for future adjustments.)
The new everything made aligning the front end much easier. I adjusted the drag link until the steering drop arm was in the correct position. I then adjusted the drag link until I had a 1/16" toe in as others suggested.
Tightened everything down and took her for a test ride. No more death grip on the wheel to track straight!!!! Amazing just a slight touch of the wheel and she changes direction. Now I need to find another exercise for my forearms and grip strength.
These forums and the knowledge available is great. Love how we all help each other out.
When I first tried to do it, one of the track rod ball joints was frozen/rusted solid to the track rod. I replaced both ball joints, the track rod, drag link and the drag link ball joint. The updated versions were beefier then the originals and had a nut that locked down against the rods instead of the clamps on the original. The ball joints also had grease fittings. Win all the way around. (TIP: Put anti-seize on the threads for future adjustments.)
The new everything made aligning the front end much easier. I adjusted the drag link until the steering drop arm was in the correct position. I then adjusted the drag link until I had a 1/16" toe in as others suggested.
Tightened everything down and took her for a test ride. No more death grip on the wheel to track straight!!!! Amazing just a slight touch of the wheel and she changes direction. Now I need to find another exercise for my forearms and grip strength.
These forums and the knowledge available is great. Love how we all help each other out.
Roverman2010
Well-known member
Toe out four wheel drive
Toe in rear wheel drive.
Toe in rear wheel drive.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
I really need to do this. My turn signals don't cancel quite right and I just eyed the alignment when I replaced the steering arms. I paid a shop to align the truck once, changed me $100 and wasn't happy with the work.
GynormousMellon
Well-known member
Now I can get new tires and get rid of these old tires!
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Right on.
The string method is brilliantly simple.
A little toe-out makes for natural understeer of a full-time 4WD.