Flywheel Gasket replacement for 200tdi

lcdck

Active member
Two questions:

1. I purchased 2 different gaskets. Use the Genuine/OEM pictured second, correct? It looks exactly like the one I took off, which was cracked and leaking.

ERR1440V
Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 9.40.28 AM.png
and ERR1440G
Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 9.39.53 AM.png


2. 1993 manual only mentions using RTV in earlier TDI engines with the "shallow annular groove". Mine is the later flat joint face. Is it recommended to use RTV still? If so, where?


Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 9.45.00 AM.png
 
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
FYI picture formatting is not the same on everybody's PC or mobile device.

You should be using the dark gray one with the silicone stripes on it.

That being said this is most likely not the reason for your leak back here. 90% of the time that I run across this leak it's because of bad t seals. T seals are an engine out repair that's why many people skip doing them.

Remove engine, remove oil pan, remove ladder frame, remove rear bearing block, replace t seals with rubber t seals slathered in black right stuff, insert bearing block with guide plates for t seals, cut t seals 1 mm proud of the surface, assemble ladder frame using a straight edge to align the ladder frame to the back of the engine block, install oil pan, install new rear main seal, dowty seal suggested, Make some m10 alignment bolts by cutting the head off a long m10 bolt and cutting a slot in the end, insert alignment bolts into back of engine block, place black right stuff over blue silicone gasket stripes, place clutch housing with gasket in place on back of engine block, evenly torque to spec, plastic rear main protective piece should pop out, remove alignment pins, place extra bolts into where alignment pins were, torque

Job done


Tldr: The light gray one is trash use the dark gray one with the silicone stripes on it, use black right stuff over the silicone stripes and replace your t seals.
 

lcdck

Active member
Formatting fixed.
The engine is already out so I’m more than halfway there already. Doing the T Seals is really the last thing I want to do though. I’m more worried about them being fine and me trying to redo them making them worse than them leaking right now but I’ll regret it if I get the engine in and it’s leaking all over the place.

Where can I find the guides? Anyone have a pair I can buy/rent/borrow? I suppose I can make them if I have to.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
you really really want to do it now...trust me. If its leaking there, they arent fine..they suck and are the worst part of the TDIs. closely followed by the crappy 200 PS pumps and the 300 vac pumps

Buy a set of cheapie feeler gauges and use two of them to install it, toss them when you are done. I currently have a guide block set that another member made from scrap metal. Both will work
 

lcdck

Active member
When I remove the ladder frame, can I take it off without removing the oil pump? Looks like it there will be room to pull it off around the pump. If not I'll need the gasket (ERR 3606).

I'm placing an order from Turner for the following:

ERR 913 T Seals 2X

ERR 2532 Rear Oil Seal

ERR 1440 Flywheel to Block Gasket

Everywhere else (ladder frame to block and sump) use Black Right Stuff.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Oil pump must come off .

You might as well buy a complete bottom end set from an earlier engine and get the legit dowty seal with it, for less coin


Edit NVM: complete set will come with wrong clutch housing to block gasket
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
When you remove the oil pump the driveshaft for the vac pump may come with it . Mark it's orientation in the pump body to make it easy to reninstall without having to jiggle it around .
 
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