Electrical Components

RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So, I've gotten to the point where I'm about to do the big wiring job, doing lots of connections to the Blue Sea fuse block, dual batteries, etc...

The thing that is hanging over all of this is the connectors themselves.

Every time I go to a store to get some I am turned off by the price, or by the cheap looking product, or by the fact that I really need a lot of them, so I want to buy in bulk.

If you were to buy from Amazon, what would you get? Other ideas?

I do want something insulated in some way. Either a cover that won't come off just because you crimp it, or a shrink wrap cover.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I think that would be for a different application, unless I'm not seeing the right thing.

I need the terminals that would go into the Blue Sea box. So like ring or blade or fork terminals. I think the best for the Blue Sea is ring terminals.

...I want to buy the weatherpak for everything else though... How awesome would that be for every light connection, etc...?!
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Oh I'm sorry dude, misunderstood. Id look for the marine grade Ring terminals that have the adhesive shrink wrap on em. Anchor makes some I think
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Oh, I wasn't thinking of it as a screw. OK, that makes sense. But what about matching the connector to the stud? is a #10 connector what I want for a #10-32 stud? I've made this type of assumption before, and have wasted a lot of money and time when what seem like matching numbers really aren't.
 
nas90tdi

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Yes, in most cases that is referring to the stud size it fits. But, then you need to choose the correct size for the wire you are using. Too big and the crimp will not be as secure.
Yellow-10-12ga
Blue- 14-16ga
Red-18-22ga
 
J

Jose B

Member
I make my living on wiring after market products for large fleets. I would recommend the two links below. Also, the blue sea box is a good solid choice for keeping things simple, i would recommend that you install a 50 or 100 amp circuit breaker mounted about 6 inches from you battery. If it was my truck, i would have a fusebox for constant 12v power and a second fuse box for ignition power, this fusebox would kick on after engine is started and alternator is pushing at least 13.5 volts to trip voltage sensitive relay. Hope the links help!

https://www.accele.com
https://www.waytekwire.com
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Jose,

That's exactly the next question I'm going to ask. I've seen a lot of dual battery systems set up, with pics of the battery box and all, but I always wonder if they actually did the wiring from the starter and alternator correctly so that you really, actually, really do have ONE battery to start, ONE battery for EVERYTHING else. I think I know how to do this, but I may have questions when I get there.

But for now, I just want to get my extras running through a separate fuse block.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
That one sight looks great, loaded up the connectors I needed ...shipping is more expensive than the thing I'm buying. So much for that idea.
 
MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Be careful buying wire particularly off ebay and amazon. If they don't list the gauge being AWG, then it isn't AWG. The "multipacks" in particular, such as when you get 100' of 14 gauge in 5 different colors or whatnot. Mine is maybe closer to 16 gauge--and the rubber coating melts easily so it isn't up to heat requirements for an auto.

In addition, when using good ratcheting crimpers for both double crimp and insulated crimp (two different crimpers), that wire doesn't hold. Matter of fact, the cheap knock off crimps don't hold on correct AWG with these crimpers (whether cheap crimpers or good ones like anchor). The metal (typically aluminum it seems) is too thin so I had to end up doing a second crimp with my normal plier crimpers). It is hard not to take advantage of the "deals" that you can get through ebay and amazon on these--I get it (and I got it!). But to do over, I would only use 3M, Anchor, or other name brands. How much would you spend trying to track down a loose wire connection? Do that math and see what you would save (and also pray that a loose wire didn't make things worse).

That all said on a precautionary note, I did find I ordered several things from Waytek and really like their selection and prices--their shipping is tough and if you are under their minimum, they will add a minimum fee charge, so try and get everything at once.

I also second what Jose B said about the secondary fuse box with circuit breaker (or large fuse). I used this under my hood: Bussman 15303-2 Fuse/Relay holder from Waytek. It takes 5 micro relays and 10 fuses. I really like it (you have to get the mounting brackets too). I used a 7 circuit Cirkit Boss from Painless in my fuse box--it gives me 4 ignition switched fused circuits and 3 constant on circuits (which I run through a 50A breaker). They also make good stuff. I would probably do it over with the Blue Sea that includes the ground bar. The ground bar is essential in my opinion--it will clean things up considerably.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
MountainD said:
But to do over, I would only use 3M, Anchor, or other name brands.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's exactly what I was concerned about. I did manage to pick up a few good connectors for the instruments (got them from an automotive shop where they agreed to sell them to me, although they weren't actually something they sold) and although it took me a few tries to figure out how to make my crimpers work (they weren't of a 'high quality') I made sure each connection was solid before tucking it away. Even to the point of soldering, then shrink wrapping. The problem is, that took a long time to do right.

So now that I'm looking to build a complete new loom for the accessories, I want to make sure the connectors, blades, etc... are all high quality, and easy to use.

It looks like I'll be making a drive to Grainger, or West Marine some time in the next week or so.
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
If you're going to build a loom do yourself a favor and don't use the split plastic stuff to cover it. Find legitimate wire loom wrapping tape, it's not electrical tape it's like a fabric base tape. Commonly used Mercedes and BMW cars vintage.

Build and test entire harness first, dry fit it, then wrap the harness in place with the wrapping tape. It way more OEM looking the plastic Loom and in a few years won't turn to goop

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EH6IZ6...t=&hvlocphy=9032131&hvtargid=pla-309634072467
 
AdamSanta85

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Napalm00 said:
If you're going to build a loom do yourself a favor and don't use the split plastic stuff to cover it. Find legitimate wire loom wrapping tape, it's not electrical tape it's like a fabric base tape. Commonly used Mercedes and BMW cars vintage.

Build and test entire harness first, dry fit it, then wrap the harness in place with the wrapping tape. It way more OEM looking the plastic Loom and in a few years won't turn to goop

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EH6IZ6...t=&hvlocphy=9032131&hvtargid=pla-309634072467
Click to expand...

Or even better go for the Raychem wire covering. I watched a race car burn to the ground and the wiring harness basically not get affected at all.

https://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=251
 
MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Wiring is totally addictive and once you do 1 area right, you just can't stand all the other areas. If your not careful, you can rewire everything (or maybe its if you are careful...). The more I see bad wiring, the more it bugs me. I'm trying to eradicate mine...
 
rocky

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I wired up my truck on a DIY basis. For many circuits the seven wire trailer harness proved to be the perfect solution.
 
Dan kemper

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
The factory wiring definitely ca be improved upon. Very fun to tidy up and clean up the wiring
 
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