Doors

[RBBailey]

I'm wanting to replace the hinges as I put the front doors back on. I have to remove the trim because I need to cut or drill the bolts in the door.

• How do I remove the interior trim?
• What will I break/need to replace when I do this?
• Which shims/spacers go where? (Door side vs. bulkhead side?) I've got a selection of these:

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLB945&type=0&eq=&key=it
and
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLI762&type=0&eq=&key=it​

• How do I know how many of the spacers to use?
• When refitting the door, how do I hold it in place while getting it bolted?
• How do I get it lined up properly?

 

[Wilboro]

One piece doors?

 

[RBBailey]

Yes.

 

[Wilboro]

You'll need to pop out the plastic lock surround. They're pretty brittle if old so you may want a couple Of those. Also the flip tabs on the door handles often break off when you're opening them to access the screws. Sometimes you can just pop them back if broken...depends on how anal you are.
A trim tool of some sort is handy to pop the card off. The card fasteners do break so
You could have spares on hand.

In terms of Installation I found it easier to install the hinges loosely on the bulkhead then put the door on. Then once the door is on loosely I tightened the door bolts and moved the door into position with the loose bulkhead fasteners. If you need more movement then use the smaller amount of movement left in the door. I just used one plastic spacer on everything and it seemed to work out even though I had a stack of spares.

I put the cards on last once the door was in position.

Get someone to help you it will be so much easier!!!

 

[RBBailey]

OK, thanks, that sounds like it should work.

I'm really worried about ruining the door card and scratching paint. When I did this on the Series it just wasn't an issue.

 

[Jeff B]

Ben, check out Paddock's Youtube channel= Land Rover Toolbox videos

Lots of good info; hundreds of videos.
I cant remember if they have a door video specifically but I remember seeing the wing fitting one.

https://www.youtube.com/user/trailerfitter2


.

 

[RBBailey]

Yeah, I love watching that guy. I looked for how to refit the wings, but I need to check specifically one how to do the doors.

 

[CDN38]

Best done as a 2 person job. One on door support, one on hardware.

 

[RBBailey]

How do you remove the window roll down handle?

 

[nas90tdi]

Small wire clip behind. Hook it with a pick and pull it out a bit and the handle will slide off. You usually can push it back in place so you don't lose it and the handle will go on without removing it when you reinstall. The crank stud is splined and had a chamfer on the end to push the clip open as you reinstall.

 

[RBBailey]

Thanks, that worked for one of them, the other had a cap with a bolt beneath. Turns out the Driver's door is not original, but it has more rust. The passenger's door is pretty good, but it has a pretty nasty looking window track.

Anyone know if the clips for the door cards are something that can be purchased at NAPA or whatever, or are they Rover only?

 

[4RF RDS]

The clips are LR specific, the part no. Is MUC3186. You'd be wise to pick up a few.

 

[RBBailey]

Thanks,

But what do you do if the base that the clips are supposed to clip to is non-existent?

 

[RBBailey]

I'm thinking of using some good looking screws just through the cards. Or making a clean hole through to the metal, then using standard plastic trim rivets.

 

[Tbaumer]

RBBailey - Hope this is okay & I'm not breaking a rule here, but it makes sense to ask this question here, rather than start a new thread.
I'm also doing my doors right now.
In replacing my window lift channel & rubber. The old came off with a bit of a pull. What is the trick to getting the new SUPER TIGHT rubber and window lift channel to slide back on the glass?

I have the full channel style, not the two individual holders like I just saw in your build thread.

 

[RBBailey]

Seems like a good question for this thread. I did not go that deep on my doors. I just wanted to make sure things worked, and that rust was controlled for now. Maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[RBBailey]

Am I doing something wrong here? Is there any way to avoid this as I put the captive nuts in place? I'm scraping paint from off the bulkhead just to get them in and ready to receive the door hinges.

 

[RBBailey]

If anyone is able to respond. I'm stuck with this door not closing. It binds up in this position, even with bolts adjustable I can't get the hinges to line up enough to allow the door to come close to closing. Other door went on fine.

 

[LostChord]

Following along for the simple fact that I'd like to add stainless hardware to the hinges at some point.

After three years with the 110, I still haven't mustered enough to courage to look behind my door cards yet. Well that, and something else always seems to pop up and take precedent.

 

[RBBailey]

OK. So I held the door in place. And while it lines up and latches fine in the aft portion, here is what it looks like up front: