D1 Axle Swap

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Figured I would move this out of the Wanted thread since I now have the rear and have started working on it. Hopefully it consolidates some info for future noobs like myself. I know there are other threads on this in various places, which fueled this for me, but didn't see a 1 stop thread to consolidate. For now, only working on rear but I have front axle also from D1 as well. Parts are sourced from a 98 D1.

*I realize the previous discussions about 10 and 24 spline axles, no need to revisit as money is already spent. My motivation behind this is that my tub is off, I need rear brakes, these axles were pretty damn good deal, and I love spending money on this Defender on things I don't necessarily need.

Need some confirmation on parts. Appreciate the help in advance.

1. Seals and Bearing. Looks like the kit is the same for Defender and D1. I believe the "newer" style kit is 2 bearings, 1 double lip seal, lock ring/washer, and the gasket. Is there anything else I need? I plan on using the timken/corteco kit as I trust those more than 3rd party.

Bearmach BK 0105A kit. Could not find other universal part number for the kit.

BK0105A.jpg

2. Suspension/frame parts. One of the trailing arms from the D1 is bent, and the "A" arm on the defender is in 100% better shape including the center ball joint. Will there be any fitment issues with the Defender arms and A arm on the D1 Axle?

3. Bushings. I'm deciding on which bushings to use. The OEM are extremely pricey, so likely will likely pick up some soft/medium poly. Looks like either polybush or superpro. Are the only different bushings the front arms, with D1 being wider? I see that they are different kits, but it looks like the rear is the same.

4. Brakes. Deciding on which to go with. If price and sourcing work out, I'll go with 110 brakes based on previous posts and some chatting with other members. If it gets too pricey or difficult to source, I'll grab some D1 as it's readily available. I will bend some 3/16 line and figure out which ends to get. Anyone have a good lead on which metric ends I need or where to get them. I will source a flange kit somewhere as well to make the double flange. Planning to use Goodridge SS +2 lines in case of future lift.

110 Rear Brakes Parts List
STC1269 Caliper Drivers Side
STC1268 Caliper Passenger Side
STC1601 Pads
STC8576 Hardware kit
LR018026 Rotors

D1/D90 Parts list:
In Progress

5. Diff. Not planning on doing much here unless I see some chunky oil or undesirable noises. hard to say if the flange seal has any issues, so likely will run it and only pull out if needed.

6. Refinish. I was hell bet on trying out rust bullet, until I found out that brake fluid ate through it. I may just run some chassis black over some good epoxy primer, but also considering POR15. Didn't want to completely clean 100% of all old paint off, but it's an option.

If you have any used/new parts relating to this burning a hole in your garage shelf, let me know!

rear1.jpg

rear2.jpg

rear3.jpg
 

Red90

Well-known member
Brake fittings are 10mm ISO flares. Available anywhere. Use copper nickel brake line. Super easy to work with.

If you use POR-15, sand blast first. It doesn't stick long term to anything else.

OEM bushings are pricey?

Use the RTC3511 hub seals and not what was specified for the axle.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
If you use POR-15, sand blast first. It doesn't stick long term to anything else.
yeah, been there once on another project, will likely look elsewhere unless my gravity blaster is up for the task.

OEM bushings are pricey?
Well, just the triangular trailing arm bushings on the frame are over $100 for LR, so sourcing the rest seemed like it would put me well over the superpro full kit mark. I'll keep looking.

Use the RTC3511 hub seals and not what was specified for the axle.
Is there no kit that would include that. I know pics are not anything to go from, but later version kits seem to have a single double lip seal. Either way, if I have to piece together it's not a big deal. rather do it once correct.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Rtc3511 definitely. The double lip is much better insurance of a leak free hub as the stub likely has wear from the single lip
 

Red90

Well-known member
Well, just the triangular trailing arm bushings on the frame are over $100 for LR, so sourcing the rest seemed like it would put me well over the superpro full kit mark. I'll keep looking.

You are confusing genuine and OEM.

Google DA1248G. Complete OEM set for the rear axle, $35.

The A-frame bushes, NTC1773 are $3 OEM each.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Rtc3511 definitely. The double lip is much better insurance of a leak free hub as the stub likely has wear from the single lip

Dang I have 5 Corteco FTC4785, one of which I have to install tonight...


Rear axle swap was very straight forward. Just bolted in. Did it solo.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Adam. Should be fine. Just inspect the stub and seat seal accordingly. If I have a new part laying around I try to use them up. Easy enough to swap later the next time you service it.

Dang I have 5 Corteco FTC4785, one of which I have to install tonight...


Rear axle swap was very straight forward. Just bolted in. Did it solo.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Ripped into the axle today. Needed a full teardown, especially after the mochachino that drained out of the plugs. Definitely some water ingress, as both sides were had some rust from the stub axle outward. The diff had some rust spots that cleaned up pretty well with a wire brush. There was no metal shavings or chunks, and everything feels tight and solid, so I guess once cleaned up, I can put it all back in and run it. I found one stub axle had a fingernail catching groove in it, as well as some slight signs of bearing spin, so figure i'll just get both new.


I do have a few questions if anyone is familiar.

1. Can I simply omit the ABS plate from inside the brake drum since I have no ABS?

2. There is a rubberized metal plate on the outside of the stub axle that seems like it's job is to hold rust, can I delete that as well?

3. The axle shafts have a smooth spot I am gessing where they hit the seal on the stub axle, it's not uniform all the way around, as the smooth part is wider on one side than the other, is that normal?

4. There was rust in front of the stub axle, the bearing are actually in great shape and the races in the hub are smooth, anything else I need to be aware of or to check.

5. Is what comes in the stub axle kit what is recommended in regard to the seal.

6. Doe I need to replace the flange seal while it is out? Cant see any signs of leaking, but seems like PITA regardless.

Thanks again for all the input.


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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
1. Yes

2. Need apic , I think you are talking about the mudsheild. If so yes

3. Yes

4. That sub pictured is shot replace it .replace the bearings and races as well. Timken set37 you need four total and a brass drift helps

5. Use the later double lip sub seal and you can either use the paper gasket to the axle flange on the back or right stuff rtv. I use a paper coated in rtv

6. See above it's takes just a moment to clean up the axle end with a wire wheel .o

Third member you can use right stuff rtv
 

Red90

Well-known member
5. Use the later double lip hub seal

RTC3511. Corteco branded is best.

It is actually the earlier seal. It was used on Range Rovers long before the 110s were introduced and later Series trucks. The RRs used oil lubricated hub bearings at that time.

They then changed to FRC8221. This has a spring only on the outside (which is really weird).

They later again (1992?) changed to FTC4785/FTC2783 and kept that forever. It is a single seal with a wiper that presses axially on the end of the stub axle. This is what you get in a normal kit.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
2. Need apic , I think you are talking about the mudsheild. If so yes

To the left of the hubs on the first pic. They feel like a rubber coated steel. As you can see in the stub axle pic, they were wavy with all the rust under them.

4. That sub pictured is shot replace it .replace the bearings and races as well. Timken set37 you need four total and a brass drift helps

plan on it, didnt think the races needed replacing, but why not at this point.

Third member you can use right stuff rtv

thanks, will do.


RTC3511. Corteco branded is best.

Just to be clear, this is the stub axle seal, (under the locking nuts in pic) or the hub seal? (larger under the bearings?)

I thought is was the hub seal, and spoke Trevor at Rovahfarm and he said he could swap out the hub bearing kit with that seal. If so, I just use the stub axle seal that comes in that respective kit, or do I have it backwards?
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
To the left of the hubs on the first pic. They feel like a rubber coated steel. As you can see in the stub axle pic, they were wavy with all the rust under them.

Well yea that is also called a mudshield but not the one I was thinking of . I'd run it as it keeps shit out of the area behind the hub

the reason it feels rubber-coated probably because the axle or the truck was waxoiled /undercoated at one time
 
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