Coolant Leaks 2016 LR4 SCV6

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aeo

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I don't know what it is with me and Rovers and coolant leaks.

The LR4 has a decent leak- I've had to top off the coolant a few times here and there. It was recently (last month) at the dealership for a multitude of things and one of the items that they quoted was related to coolant. They recommended:
FRONT COOLANT MANIFOLD IS LEAKING, RECC ALSO REPLACING REAR
* FRONT COOLANT MANIFOLD, REAR COOLANT MANIFOLD, SUPER CHARGER COOLER GASKET, S/C INTAKE GASKETS
They quoted $2393 to do the work. They are also 2 hours away. And they noticed some coolant around the water pump but it wasn't actively leaking. I feel like this should probably just be done when I take it apart for the manifolds and gaskets. I mean at this point...

So, I am looking for a parts list with correct numbers for these items and ideally some links to decent videos that show me the work. I cannot seem to find the rear coolant manifold. I have read that the front and rear manifold parts have since been made in aluminium and not plastic which sounds better to me.

Thanks,
Alex
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

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Callsign: KN4JHI
I would definitely do this work asap because these motors will blow a head gasket very quickly when low on coolant.

The front pipe is pretty easy to do. You basically unbolt the supercharger and lift up the front of it while leaving it mostly in place to gain access to the lower outlet pipe. The rear crossover pipe is a pain. I usually pull the supercharger completely to do that job. There is a sensor on the drivers side rear of the charge air cooler housing (attached to the supercharger). I usually unbolt this housing and remove the supercharger, then you can easily access that connector.
 
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aeo

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jymmiejamz said:
I would definitely do this work asap because these motors will blow a head gasket very quickly when low on coolant.

The front pipe is pretty easy to do. You basically unbolt the supercharger and lift up the front of it while leaving it mostly in place to gain access to the lower outlet pipe. The rear crossover pipe is a pain. I usually pull the supercharger completely to do that job. There is a sensor on the drivers side rear of the charge air cooler housing (attached to the supercharger). I usually unbolt this housing and remove the supercharger, then you can easily access that connector.
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TY.

I just ordered a kit with aluminum cooler housings. And I need to vac refill the coolant correct? Can I just get a vacuum kit from Amazon?

Local auto shop doesn't have Dex Cool. Can I use Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to top it off? It is Hybrid Organic Acid Technology and same temp ranges as the Dex Cool.

​

 
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aeo

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jymmiejamz said:
I would definitely do this work asap because these motors will blow a head gasket very quickly when low on coolant.

The front pipe is pretty easy to do. You basically unbolt the supercharger and lift up the front of it while leaving it mostly in place to gain access to the lower outlet pipe. The rear crossover pipe is a pain. I usually pull the supercharger completely to do that job. There is a sensor on the drivers side rear of the charge air cooler housing (attached to the supercharger). I usually unbolt this housing and remove the supercharger, then you can easily access that connector.
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I've order the new pipes in aluminum and not plastic and am now watching videos on how to. The video (it's 2 hours) I've been watching removes the high pressure fuel lines and all kinds of other lines to even start on removing the supercharger. How much do I actually have to remove?

While I appreciate how thorough this guy is I also don't want to remove more than I have to. I have a tendency to break things. Especially expensive and hard to replace things.
 
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aeo

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jymmiejamz said:
I would definitely do this work asap because these motors will blow a head gasket very quickly when low on coolant.

The front pipe is pretty easy to do. You basically unbolt the supercharger and lift up the front of it while leaving it mostly in place to gain access to the lower outlet pipe. The rear crossover pipe is a pain. I usually pull the supercharger completely to do that job. There is a sensor on the drivers side rear of the charge air cooler housing (attached to the supercharger). I usually unbolt this housing and remove the supercharger, then you can easily access that connector.
Click to expand...
I am getting the guts to tackle this. How many hours would it take you to do front, rear, and water pump? I just want to get a ballpark of time- I'm planning to basically double whatever you say.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

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Callsign: KN4JHI
I'm probably the wrong person to ask because I've probably done hundreds of these. You should be able to do it over a weekend if you don't run into any issues. The worst part is going to be the rear crossover pipe. The warranty time to do all of that work is probably around 6 hours or less if I had to guess.
 
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aeo

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Had the water pump replaced a while ago and the leaks seemed to stop and it seemed happy coolant wise. Thought maybe that was the deal and it was fixed. But here were are again with me having to add some coolant every few weeks and my AC is acting all kinds of weird- cool driver's side and warmish passenger side. I had a bunch of AC components replaced last year so it seems suspect that this is related to the AC blend motors and not the coolant system.

Last month I cleared all the blend motor codes and then replaced the dead aux battery and have not seen blend motor codes again. Gap tool says the AC pressure is 825 kPa and both blend actuators appear to be functioning when I live read them and adjust temp/blower speed in the vehicle.

I've been watching this Lucky 8 Video and it seems relatively straight forward. My current question is how much difference between the V8 (video) and the V6 (what I have). Seems like the steps should be the same.
 
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aeo

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jymmiejamz said:
No, definitely not
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Hallelujah!
I'm getting all prepared to flood the garage with coolant. Looking at it right now I have one hose that seems suspect and I wonder if this is really the coolant leak culprit. There is white residue sprayed near this hose at the water pump- I'm sure it has a real name but it's the one that comes off the coolant reservoir and appears to connect with the water pump and it looks like it is about to rot in half and isn't fully seated on the water pump from what I can tell.
 

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aeo

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Made it this to point of removing the supercharger and I cannot for the life of me get it to budge. All the bolts are out and I've seperate the rear harness bracket from the bracket attached to the supercharger.

Couple questions- should there be this much oil in the supercharger? There was some dirt like burnt oil that I wiped out, is that normal?

My hunch is this has never been opened in 93k miles/10 years.



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aeo

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jymmiejamz said:
You need to remove those 10mm bolts to lift up the supercharger. That's a normal amount of oil and carbon buildup.
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The bolts were out for the struggle, just not the photo. I ended up using an engine support to lift it straight up.
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It’s all back together, running (hallelujah), and not leaking coolant (at least on the driveway).

These are the leftover bits I found on the garage floor when I backed it out.

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And the offending crossover pipe that disintegrated upon removal. The rear seemed fine- the o-ring was questionable. Glad I did the work and happy to have the aluminum parts installed.

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jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

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Callsign: KN4JHI
That leftover rubber piece goes on the battery box where the battery cable comes in if I'm remembering correctly.
 
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Andrew

Andrew

Well-known member
I've heard from experts on these engines not to use the aftermarket aluminum coolant pipe parts because they usually leak at the seam, but the genuine front aluminum crossover pipes should be good. The original manufacturer for the plastic pipes is Wahler, so you can save by buying that brand instead of from the Land Rover dealer. The cooling system parts should be replaced about every 5 years whether they leak or not and make sure to not exceed 5k miles between oil changes because oil gunks up in the passages so it can't get to the timing chain tensioners or cams.

Also, Dex Cool is not the original coolant. That's Havoline XLC, but Dex Cool is a suitable replacement, ideally if you flush it out with distilled water first. You can also go with later VW coolants. The newest is HT-12 Pink. New BMWs use HT-12 Green, but they cannot be mixed.
 
Noyac40

Noyac40

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Andrew said:
I've heard from experts on these engines not to use the aftermarket aluminum coolant pipe parts because they usually leak at the seam, but the genuine front aluminum crossover pipes should be good. The original manufacturer for the plastic pipes is Wahler, so you can save by buying that brand instead of from the Land Rover dealer. The cooling system parts should be replaced about every 5 years whether they leak or not and make sure to not exceed 5k miles between oil changes because oil gunks up in the passages so it can't get to the timing chain tensioners or cams.

Also, Dex Cool is not the original coolant. That's Havoline XLC, but Dex Cool is a suitable replacement, ideally if you flush it out with distilled water first. You can also go with later VW coolants. The newest is HT-12 Pink. New BMWs use HT-12 Green, but they cannot be mixed.
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Agree, I bought a 2017 L405 in December and thought that I was getting ahead of a potential issue by having the aluminum pipes installed, since then I have added Dexcool every week since then when warning light comes on. Now I have to take it back in and redo that work with orig pipes.

Question for those who know, should I have the timing chain guides done while it’s in there or is this not an issue for SCv6?
 
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