Clutch

[NAS DEFENDER 90]

I recently purchest a 1994 NAS 90 with 50k miles. The clutch master cylinder needs to be replaced. Im thinking to just do a whole clutch and replacing everything Over the winter. Any thoughts from you Pros ? Also any thing else that you guys think I should just get done at 50K miles.

 

[Z.G]

Do you want a few hour job or a 15 hour job?

The two are unrelated, so I would suggest just doing the master, and that's coming from someone who sells the parts.

 

[NAS DEFENDER 90]

I heard usually the slave cylinder is right behind. I also do not want it down during the summer. Also when should the timing belt get done ? Mileage wise

 

[Z.G]

You should never replace the timing belt on your truck.

The slave cylinder could be done with the master, doesnt really change the amount of time for that job. The clutch itself would be the most time consuming part

 

[NAS DEFENDER 90]

Thank you for the heads up

 

[MountainD]

I’ve never heard that one fails close to the other and I have plenty of anecdotal evidence to support the opposite as I’ve owned a few and only replace what failed and they never failed together or close to one another. And there are good and bad versions— for instance if I was to do both, I’d at very least get cast steel versions of the master such as Dorman as they have a much better track record. Jason also sells a kit on his site if you do both or you can make one with standard parts with slight mod to the mounting ears of the master which is pretty well detailed here: https://www.defendersource.com/thre...onversion-defender-series-late-iia-iii.67611/

Or just buy it as a kit from Jason— he sells loads of too notch stuff. If you want stock or OEM, Zack at Rovers North is awesome.

Clutch Master Cylinder Conversion Kit - for Land Rover Defender & Series

The original Clutch Master Cylinder on a Land Rover Defender (model year 1983-2006) & Series late-IIA & III (model year late-1971-1984) trucks are made from aluminum, and as such is prone to having the inner wall of the cylinder wear over time…creating a situation where the clutch master may...

www.seriesdefender.com

Here is a helpful post on changing master. https://www.defendersource.com/threads/best-way-to-change-clutch-master-in-a-95.38359/post-356606

Easy job, all or in part. Clutch is totally different animal. Way friggin harder. And if you are intent on that, I’d look into LOF clutches and replace your clutch fork with a strengthened one or do the HD mod to yours. What I’d do at least. Pre nets break through.

 

[NAS DEFENDER 90]

Thank you

 

[brdhmltn]

I’ve never heard that one fails close to the other and I have plenty of anecdotal evidence to support the opposite as I’ve owned a few and only replace what failed and they never failed together or close to one another.

My swap to R2.8, the slave is totally different from stock setup, so that was new. The master (old) started dripping into the floorboard of the truck 1 week driving with the new engine. I already had a dorman kit on my shelf

 

[Siia109]

I have close to twice the mileage you have on my 95 - the clutch is fine. Given the miles this has on it the PO didn't go wheeling in it so chances are you have another 50K+ to go before the clutch is gone.

Although they don't fail at once I replaced my master (because the barrel was shot and I couldn't do a rebuild) and I rebuilt the slave at the same time. My logic was the system is drained down anyway so why not take advantage of that.

The fun part is when you struggle to get the master out of the vehicle with out disassembling the brake master piping (bleeding the brakes) and pedal box right next to it. Its one of those jobs that is way easier on a RHD then it is on a LHD. I did get some HF wrenches and customized them for this job as I was determined to not take the clutch pedal out...

 

[NAS DEFENDER 90]

Ha. Thanx for the heads up

 

[Grover]

Make sure you use the correct fluid, Castrol LMA…

 

[jimbobwae]

I’ve never heard that one fails close to the other and I have plenty of anecdotal evidence to support the opposite as I’ve owned a few and only replace what failed and they never failed together or close to one another. And there are good and bad versions— for instance if I was to do both, I’d at very least get cast steel versions of the master such as Dorman as they have a much better track record. Jason also sells a kit on his site if you do both or you can make one with standard parts with slight mod to the mounting ears of the master which is pretty well detailed here: https://www.defendersource.com/thre...onversion-defender-series-late-iia-iii.67611/

Or just buy it as a kit from Jason— he sells loads of too notch stuff. If you want stock or OEM, Zack at Rovers North is awesome.

Clutch Master Cylinder Conversion Kit - for Land Rover Defender & Series

The original Clutch Master Cylinder on a Land Rover Defender (model year 1983-2006) & Series late-IIA & III (model year late-1971-1984) trucks are made from aluminum, and as such is prone to having the inner wall of the cylinder wear over time…creating a situation where the clutch master may...

www.seriesdefender.com

Here is a helpful post on changing master. https://www.defendersource.com/threads/best-way-to-change-clutch-master-in-a-95.38359/post-356606

Easy job, all or in part. Clutch is totally different animal. Way friggin harder. And if you are intent on that, I’d look into LOF clutches and replace your clutch fork with a strengthened one or do the HD mod to yours. What I’d do at least. Pre nets break through.

Agree with this note from @MountainD, I put Jason's Dorman version in three years ago after my fourth Original in 110k miles/25 years. Its been great. Also did the LOF in August - got it from RN. Works great and I did not put in the helper spring on the pedal. My LT77 shifts are cleaner from 2nd>3rd now.