Clutch or gearbox problem

P1k1968

P1k1968

Member
Took my 91 LHD row 90 out today, warm and muggy day. Doing some around town driving...

Got harder and harder to get into 1st gear, 2nd was less problematic. Going to reverse produced a loud grinding sound.
This happened once before on a hot day, I had the clutch fluid changed and bled, do not see any leaks and the fluid is still visible in the reservoir.

If the engine is off, i can shift thru all gears with no problem. Once it has cooled down, it shifts fine (or as well as an LT77 with 120k miles shifts). This makes me believe its a clutch related issue rather than a gearbox issue.

Any guidance?

Thanks,
Andy
 
J

John Z

Well-known member
Sounds like your clutch is not fully disengaging. Prolonged driving could lead to gearbox issues
 
P1k1968

P1k1968

Member
I let it cool down for 40 minutes, it is shifting almost back to normal, goes into reverse with no grinding, goes into first every time. So it is definitely heat related, was thinking punched thru fork, but that would not change after cooling down would it?
 
javelinadave

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Sounds like your slave is starting to fail. I would change it and the master too. Not difficult and not expensive.
Most of the aftermarket units are crap. I suggest you consider this:
www.seriesdefender.com

Clutch Master Cylinder Conversion Kit - for Land Rover Defender & Series

The original Clutch Master Cylinder on a Land Rover Defender (model year 1983-2006) & Series late-IIA & III (model year late-1971-1984) trucks are made from aluminum, and as such is prone to having the inner wall of the cylinder wear over time…creating a situation where the clutch master may...
www.seriesdefender.com www.seriesdefender.com
 
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P1k1968

P1k1968

Member
John Z said:
Either rebleed or something is not adjusted correctly
Click to expand...
After some more searching, it seems the clutch pedal should be 5.5 inches from the bottom edge to the floor; mine is 6.5 inches. But having the LOF master cylinder, maybe the manual settings are not applicable.
 
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M

Mirrajumper

Well-known member
The bottom of the pedal should have 5.5 inches vertical gap to the floor with no mat/carpet. There is a bolt on the foot pedal box to accomplish this. Then pop the cover and loosen the jam screws on the pushrod for master. Hand tighten until you can engage clutch again in all gears. 1/16” play in that adjustment.
 
M

Mirrajumper

Well-known member
IMG_0153.jpeg
IMG_0150.jpeg
IMG_0141.jpeg
 
J

John Z

Well-known member
The clutch master has an adjustment under the plate where the pedal actually attached to the master. It's held with like 6 screws.
There is also a bolt on the clutch master bracket itself

And just how the slave itself is connected via the fork and is the rid the right size? Stuff like that could go wrong
 
rocky

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Andy: Where in the travel of the clutch is it disengaging/engaging? Right at the end of its travel?
 
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