Ceramic coated exhaust manifolds

lordhelemt

Well-known member
Has anyone ceramic coated v8 exhaust manifolds? I’m trying to reduce heat in the engine bay and was wondering if the ceramic claims of heat reduction is accurate.

Looking for real experiences specifically with RV8s.
 

Z.G

Well-known member
CS ceramic coats all their certified truck's manifolds. I would say the difference is negligible at best.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
I would say it's worth it. Zero experience with any Rover engine, but several sets of BB and SB chevy manifolds/headers done and always liked the results. Great corrosion resistance and I would say noticeable temp difference, though truthfully done as coating and finish rather than for heat. We used to have a Jet-Hot up near me here in Philly area, but I believe they are only in NC now. When I pull the 200 ill get the manifolds and downpipe done at the local ceramic place.
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
Ha, the ones on my 110 were coated by ASCO, but you can guess how much I’ve been able to evaluate the difference...
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I’ve done it several times, but never for heat reduction. I only do it because it looks nice. For the ones I’ve done, I’ve used Jet Hot coatings. I want to say it’s about $500 or so to have them done.
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Robert

Well-known member
I stuck a thermocouple under the intake hose the other day and the temp swings from 130 to 170 combo city and highway. spikes to 190ish when the engine is immediately shut off. Seems like they could make any temperature reduction claim they wanted and not be able to disprove it
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
The gold spacers look nice, but those 12 points could strip out at the head in the future when everything gets frozen-up.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I swear the toughest thing for the V8 Defender is the lack of really good airflow to pull all the heat it and the radiator release. Nobody yet makes a reverse version of the heater intake that would draw heat out of the engine bay or similar if you have a fender side vent seen on 200 and 300 tdis.. Some people have drilled holes in the hood, a pro version I suppose would be hood louvers.....
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
These are the updated factory manifold bolts and spacers. I’ve done dozens upon dozens of head jobs where these bolts were fitted and have never seen one seized.

Having just installed some (ceramic coated - on-topic) manifolds with the old-school system, I’m curious about this updated set-up. What is the improvement, is there info on this anywhere?
 

Robert

Well-known member
Having just installed some (ceramic coated - on-topic) manifolds with the old-school system, I’m curious about this updated set-up. What is the improvement, is there info on this anywhere?

I think its a mid 97 change. Probably around AEL

The bolts stay tight, unlike the previous years
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
I can't speak to using Jet-Hot or similar on a Rover, but I did have the manifolds treated on my '65 Corvair Turbo. Turbo kicked in harder at lower RPM. Also, the heat on that car is similar to a 911, where air is drawn off the manifolds and pumped inside. It would get hot inside, but took longer to get there. Overall. I would do it again, if I had the manifolds off. I don't know if I would take them off just to do it, but if they were off anyway...
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Having just installed some (ceramic coated - on-topic) manifolds with the old-school system, I’m curious about this updated set-up. What is the improvement, is there info on this anywhere?

These come from the factory with red patch lock on the threads and don’t come loose over time. you also don’t have to deal with those shitty locking tabs. A lot of times people will reinstall the old style with regular lock washers and they don’t stay tight. I’m not really sure why they need that spacer. P38s use a similar bolt that is shorter and doesn’t have the spacer.
 
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Installed trackspec vents..I found them to be very helpful in moving out the hot air from the engine. After a long tow up the grapevine.i felt the hood which was very warm but touched the vents and they were significantly hotter to the point you could barely hold your hand on them. Coolant seems to run about 5 to 8 degrees cooler in similar conditions after i installed them.
 

lordhelemt

Well-known member
I swear the toughest thing for the V8 Defender is the lack of really good airflow to pull all the heat

i wonder if it would be as simple as adding a blower and exhaust it out of the drivers side vent. Maybe something the the carb cooler on the old fj60s but in reverse.
 

Robert

Well-known member
I’m not really sure why they need that spacer. P38s use a similar bolt that is shorter and doesn’t have the spacer.

Arent P38 manifolds welded steel? Probably due to that. Cast doesn’t expand as much as the steel bolts so the spacer was probably chosen to make up for it and keep clamping pressure at operating temp
 

D90Overkill

Well-known member
Arent P38 manifolds welded steel? Probably due to that. Cast doesn’t expand as much as the steel bolts so the spacer was probably chosen to make up for it and keep clamping pressure at operating temp
Stainless. And they develop leaks at the welds and the accordion joints. I had to seal mine up with extreme heat manifold JB, but then I wrapped them. Even if they leak again, I’ll never hear it under all that AND the heat shields. Waaaaay cooler under the bonnet now.
74E1B2A3-AEB6-49FE-9792-347FBB66A298.jpeg
 

doktorno

Active member
Had been going down the rabbit hole to do the same thing with p38 manifolds, with the heat shields. Never thought of wrapping them....

Stainless. And they develop leaks at the welds and the accordion joints. I had to seal mine up with extreme heat manifold JB, but then I wrapped them. Even if they leak again, I’ll never hear it under all that AND the heat shields. Waaaaay cooler under the bonnet now.View attachment 14682
 
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