Building the perfect 90

[erover82]

Maybe you are better than me - but when I rebuild my RHD '66 SIIa 109 over 4 years (no where near your level of restoration) and then I would take it down the country dirt roads of VT - I would cringe at the sound of the gravel ricocheting around under the car thinking off all the road rash that is occuring, and then the cloud of dust that would drift into every crack and crevice knowing I could never get it as clean as when I built it. Drove me loopy - I would come home and try to wipe it down as well as look for something leaking or not right and I finally realized - this is not enjoyable.
My NAS D90 is coming up on 100K miles and that was when I kinda targeted a major rebuild - and now I am thinking maybe the same thing will happen again
Thanks for the post - Cheers -

Yes, in addition to rattles, I also detest gravel pinging off panels. There's a plan to address it, of which the undercoating is a part. More to come on that later. On leaks, the struggle is real. I've already repaired one on the front cover (install mistake), and the new fuel tank and rebuilt transmission are both leaking at their drain plugs already.

 

[blueboy]

On leaks, the struggle is real.

You know the Landy creed - If it isn’t leaking the “xx” is empty. I consider myself very, very fortunate as the ‘94 LWB doesn’t leak a single drop any where and it gets driven.
Feel sure you’ll get it leak free as well!

 

[jymmiejamz]

Yes, in addition to rattles, I also detest gravel pinging off panels. There's a plan to address it, of which the undercoating is a part. More to come on that later. On leaks, the struggle is real. I've already repaired one on the front cover (install mistake), and the new fuel tank and rebuilt transmission are both leaking at their drain plugs already.

The drain plugs on new tanks always leak, just tighten the plug more

 

[erover82]

View attachment 30841

Continuing the brake system focus, I set to work on the lines and proportioning valve.

Started at the front caliper hard lines, with a set of stainless brackets and new flex lines. I used standard galvanized/PVF-coated steel because it's stronger than copper-nickel, is easier than stainless to build with, lasts forever in the local climate, and looks OEM. Here the bend line is being marked with compensation for the specific bending tool.

I've used a few types of bending tools, but I prefer this one due to its compact size and smooth bends.

Completing a caliper pipe with new fittings and hydraulic flares.

Definitely not the most convenient flaring tool to use in tight spots.

Taking a break after working on the rear for a while.

Rear complete

The front pipe which spans the bulkhead is one of the more challenging with many bends and obstacles to snake around. The length makes it difficult to form the bends since the unformed end whips around and inevitably gets in the way, so I kept it partially coiled and straightened it as I went.

Almost there.

In an effort to rationalize the brake system and ensure safety, I set aside the original "G" valve, and obtained a proper later type proportioning valve. Now with exception of the booster and master (for good reason), the axles, calipers, and valve would comprise a matching and proven later-type system.

Here the valve was mounted in the factory position and most of the pipes are complete.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I've been wanting to try one of those hydraulic flaring tools. I use the vice mounted version of that. I like to use that same brake tubing, but I've also found that stainless is pretty easy to work with when you have the proper tools for bending and flaring. I have a tight radius bender I bought a while ago from Fragola that has been great for mimicking factory bends.

 

[erover82]

I've been wanting to try one of those hydraulic flaring tools. I use the vice mounted version of that. I like to use that same brake tubing, but I've also found that stainless is pretty easy to work with when you have the proper tools for bending and flaring. I have a tight radius bender I bought a while ago from Fragola that has been great for mimicking factory bends.

They make nice flares but I wish there was a more compact version optimized just for brake lines. That Fragola bender looks like a nice piece of kit. Mine was stiff, had to be lubricated, and the powder coat flakes off, but it works great otherwise. The ones I used prior were either too large or marred the pipe.

 

[cellulararrest]

10mm thick aluminum coated closed-cell foam was utilized for heat reflection/insulation and some sound absorption, similar to the factory insulation, but with wider coverage.

View attachment 30183


ResoNix, the best sound dampening material on the market, was applied to any relevant large flat surfaces which would otherwise turn into road noise resonating drums. It was used both under the 10mm insulation and solo on areas where I didn't want or need the heat insulation. Examples of the latter can be seen here on the right side.

When you say 10mm closed-cell foam then ResoNix are you talking about one product? And is it their Fiber Mat Silver product? Or is this two different products?

This looks fantastic and like it’ll be incredibly effective. I’m looking to do something very similar on my truck but I’m paranoid about trapping water and contributing to rust even though my bulkhead, like yours, is galvy.

Thanks for any additional info! Absolutely beautiful build - excited to follow along

 

[erover82]

When you say 10mm closed-cell foam then ResoNix are you talking about one product? And is it their Fiber Mat Silver product? Or is this two different products?

This looks fantastic and like it’ll be incredibly effective. I’m looking to do something very similar on my truck but I’m paranoid about trapping water and contributing to rust even though my bulkhead, like yours, is galvy.

Thanks for any additional info! Absolutely beautiful build - excited to follow along

Two products. The 10mm closed cell foam with foil heat-reflective face and adhesive backing is available from many vendors. Last I checked, Resonix doesn't offer such a product. The Fiber Mat Silver is similar but is a light fiber instead of the denser foam in the OEM style stuff I used, and adhesive of the Resonix product is probably superior. The Resonix product I used under the 10mm insulation was the CLD Squares.

With my bulkhead being galvanized, epoxy coated (100% moisture impermeable), and the surfaces being sealed by the strong adhesive of the CLD Squares and reflective tape, I have no rust concerns.

 

[cellulararrest]

Two products. The 10mm closed cell foam with foil heat-reflective face and adhesive backing is available from many vendors. Last I checked, Resonix doesn't offer such a product. The Fiber Mat Silver is similar but is a light fiber instead of the denser foam in the OEM style stuff I used, and adhesive of the Resonix product is probably superior. The Resonix product I used under the 10mm insulation was the CLD Squares.

Awesome - Thank you for the clarification.

With my bulkhead being galvanized, epoxy coated (100% moisture impermeable), and the surfaces being sealed by the strong adhesive of the CLD Squares and reflective tape, I have no rust concerns.

Same here with the new build. Up here in the Northeast rust is always a concern so I want to be intentional about what I’m sticking to the bulkhead no matter what. I agree your precautions look thorough!