Building the perfect 90

[erover82]

where did you get the black pozi screws?

OEM AB610055L and AB608054L, #10 and #8 screws respectively, are both black.

 

[Eliot]

My oldest learning to ream out each square hole to the perfect size to fit the many Lokut nuts.

You're an awesome dad, thats such great experience to give him

 

[erover82]

You're an awesome dad, thats such great experience to give him

Thanks, it's definitely a fun way to make memories with them and share the adventure. I remember working on trucks and making knives, fishing tackle, etc with my grandfather, and while none of it was very technical, it definitely left an impression. Looking back at the first photos in the thread, it's striking how much they've grown. It's a strong motivator to get the project done so they can start enjoying it in new ways while they're young.

 

[erover82]

Next up was fitting the restored upper steering, brake, throttle, and clutch assemblies.

First, here's a look back a few years to when I first disassembled and began restoring them.

All were first disassembled

Then blasted, primed, and refinished.

Here the throttle is being reassembled with new grease and an upgrade, a brass shim to eliminate slop in the joint.

Clutch pedal assembly being rebuilt with new and restored parts. The pivot pin was coated with a low friction coating for corrosion protection and smooth pedal action.

Fitted a TRW master which features a revised design that reduces shaft-bore wear.

Assembled to bulkhead

For the upper steering bracket mounting points I drilled the bulkhead and fitted ribbed rivnuts with thread retainer to prevent corrosion and ensure they don't ever spin.

Made a spacer for the steering column bracket to clear the wiring grommet plate.

Upper steering assembly fitted

 

[erover82]

Apprentice helping pull the new bulkhead harness. With both of us working it from both sides, it took every bit of strength to get that damn grommet to seat correctly.

Many hours were spent scouring these pages and online trying to figure out what all the connectors are intended for, several being optional or having multiple uses. Wire labels were added to many for posterity.

Restored the rusty old inner dash panel and installed it with sound deadener where possible.

Tearing down the wiper gearbox for rebuild and gearing change to Td5 spec to match the new bulkhead's Td5 style wiper fittings.

Rebuilt the park switch as well

Fully rebuilt with new gears, lubricant, restored cable boot, and ceramic coated motor housing (because the color was similar to original).

That's all nice, but it didn't work. Apparently I destroyed the brushes upon motor reassembly.

Several weeks later..

More careful this time.

Motor, gearboxes, and rack mounted and wired. Still didn't work. Now what???

 

[TravelinLight]

Provide to me so I can give it a proper Viking Funeral, of course if you can throw in the painted panels so it is complet

 

[erover82]

Motor, gearboxes, and rack mounted and wired. Still didn't work. Now what???

After looking over the components carefully, the culprit was identified. The Td5 wiper boxes being larger than the early ones meant the rack tube was slightly too long. This caused the flared ends to catch on the gear teeth. The remedy simply involved cutting the tube down slightly and re-flaring the end.

The finishing touch was the ground for the motor. The original ring-to-spade terminal (505205) is NLA and I couldn't find a generic version anywhere.

I was overthinking it though. The solution was simply to start with a quality ring terminal and modify it.

Continuing the topic of electrics, the main fuse box was installed with illuminated fuses and Panasonic Japan-made relays.

Tracked down some NOS electrical bits, some coming as far as down under.

Stocked up on more British wiring components to build the rest.

Having fitted later style door close switches with an earlier-style harness, I found it necessary to build a pair of terminal adapters. Using the factory wiring color was unnecessary but satisfying.

After much research I figured out which terminals Lucas Rists had used to build the molded harnesses. Combined with a stock of colored wires, this let me build some nice factory-style leads. The one pictured is the white-slate wire from the fuel level sender to the binnacle harness.

This one, the tachometer signal wire, was built in white-green to match NAS spec. Not normally found on a Tdi, but having an alternator that offers the signal, I'd like to take advantage of it.

 

[MountainD]

After looking over the components carefully, the culprit was identified. The Td5 wiper boxes being larger than the early ones meant the rack tube was slightly too long. This caused the flared ends to catch on the gear teeth. The remedy simply involved cutting the tube down slightly and re-flaring the end.

View attachment 30655


The finishing touch was the ground for the motor. The original ring-to-spade terminal (505205) is NLA and I couldn't find a generic version anywhere.

I was overthinking it though. The solution was simply to start with a quality ring terminal and modify it.

View attachment 30656


Continuing the topic of electrics, the main fuse box was installed with illuminated fuses and Panasonic Japan-made relays.

View attachment 30657


Tracked down some NOS electrical bits, some coming as far as down under.

View attachment 30660


Stocked up on more British wiring components to build the rest.

View attachment 30661


Having fitted later style door close switches with an earlier-style harness, I found it necessary to build a pair of terminal adapters. Using the factory wiring color was unnecessary but satisfying.

View attachment 30658


After much research I figured out which terminals Lucas Rists had used to build the molded harnesses. Combined with a stock of colored wires, this let me build some nice factory-style leads. The one pictured is the white-slate wire from the fuel level sender to the binnacle harness.

View attachment 30662


This one, the tachometer signal wire, was built in white-green to match NAS spec. Not normally found on a Tdi, but having an alternator that offers the signal, I'd like to take advantage of it.

View attachment 30663

I like to get my electrical harness nibs from these guys in case you ever need another: https://www.thebonnevilleshop.com/p...ctrical-tool-kit-with-connectors-pn-tbs-0666/

They have them for the different mm wires--true sized crimps with hexagonal crimper tool or you can just get the ends. I have a whole kit now...

 

[erover82]

I like to get my electrical harness nibs from these guys in case you ever need another: https://www.thebonnevilleshop.com/p...ctrical-tool-kit-with-connectors-pn-tbs-0666/

They have them for the different mm wires--true sized crimps with hexagonal crimper tool or you can just get the ends. I have a whole kit now...

Yes sir, I too am a connoisseur of those fine Lucas components. That crimper works well. Much faster than soldering.

While the fore and aft sections primarily use those 4.7mm bullets, the connectors I was attempting to emulate were the moulded polymer connectors nearer the bulkhead (seen below). Maybe you already understood that though. Either way, I appreciate the tip.

I had mistakenly damaged a male pin on one and was faced with the question of how to repair it. They require special tooling to mould the housing around the wire/pin, and while similar to the bullets, the pins are 4.57mm diameter, enough that the bullets are too tight and have no strain relief to remove them. After exhaustive searching through electrical catalogs, I eventually stumbled upon TE's Shure-Plug line and part # 42865-3, which I'm confident is the exact pin Lucas Rists (and Autosparks now) used to build these harnesses. While that pin was perfect for the repair, I found that part # 60793-1 was better for creating custom terminations due to their strain relief design. To emulate the moulded housing of single pin connectors (also seen above), I simple layered heat shrink a few times to create a similar thick moulded-like section. TE 60798-4 is the female equivalent.

Here is where that custom wire above actually terminates into the harness, just like the factory wire would if it weren't NLA.

 

[LRNAD90]

And to think I was proud of building a simple speaker output harness to solve my alternator whine issue. Now it feels simpleton at best. Clearly I should have (at least) sourced the correct pins and used the correct color wire instead of just using the random color wires that already had the pins connected to them

You do great work, more power to you..

 

[erover82]

And to think I was proud of building a simple speaker output harness to solve my alternator whine issue. Now it feels simpleton at best. Clearly I should have (at least) sourced the correct pins and used the correct color wire instead of just using the random color wires that already had the pins connected to them

You do great work, more power to you..

Yours is actually on the road, so that counts for a lot. Sometimes I wonder WWECRD (what would ECR do). Where do they draw the line? This build involves many indulgences of questionable value once it's covered in mud.

 

[LRNAD90]

Yours is actually on the road, so that counts for a lot. Sometimes I wonder WWECRD (what would ECR do). Where do they draw the line? This build involves many indulgences of questionable value once it's covered in mud.

If I were you, it would be very difficult for me to take it and use it as designed after the level of detailed effort you have put into pretty much each and every component..

Then again, I find it hard to use mine as designed anymore, given the values of the NAS trucks. Is it weird that part of me wants the bottom to drop out of the Defender market, so I no longer have a reason to worry every time I take it out, and be constantly wondering if I'd be smarter to sell it than keep it?

(I'm not very smart so not likely to happen, but)

 

[erover82]

If I were you, it would be very difficult for me to take it and use it as designed after the level of detailed effort you have put into pretty much each and every component..

Indeed, that will be a real test.

Then again, I find it hard to use mine as designed anymore, given the values of the NAS trucks. Is it weird that part of me wants the bottom to drop out of the Defender market, so I no longer have a reason to worry every time I take it out, and be constantly wondering if I'd be smarter to sell it than keep it?

IMO the value only matters if you're open to selling or desire to keep it pristine for personal satisfaction. Otherwise, like a frozen asset, its practical market value becomes zero which in my mind makes intended use more palatable. If I was in your situation with a NAS truck, I'd consider selling it for a ROW spec, possibly a 110 for the kids. Then again, ROW trucks in desirable configurations and good condition aren't exactly cheap either.

 

[erover82]

With the restored brake tower in place, I turned attention to the booster. I opted to keep the original as it was the larger of the 200Tdi boosters and built of thicker metal that later units. It was in great mechanical condition, but needed a refresh to remove surface rust and replace aged rubber/plastics.

Hand sanded and media blasted.

Next it was epoxy primed and wet sanded. "Am I seriously wet sanding a damn brake booster right now?" went through my head a few times. Here it is being heat cured after top coating with automotive urethane.

Like the booster, the early cast-iron master cylinders were more robust than later stamped designs. TRW offers a quality unit which I've disassembled here to lubricate.

A gasket is nice to have as it reduces water ingress and subsequent corrosion

Assembled with refinished vacuum fitting, new grommet, and a reproduction decal (which I later changed to one specifying DOT 4).

 

[blueboy]

Am I seriously wet sanding a damn brake booster right now?"

But of course!! Its great when one spends the time to do everything to the highest level!

 

[MountainD]

The only thing that has me scratching my head on this incredible build is that you are doing this to a RHD! I like them alright, but this is so much time and energy…. Hard for ME to imagine it. However, it isn’t mine and obviously you love the added feature of RHD, and ain’t nothing wrong with that! One of best build threads on here!

 

[erover82]

But of course!! Its great when one spends the time to do everything to the highest level!

It’s a slippery slope where if one part turns out well, it seems a shame not to spend some effort on the next one too. Then before you know it, several years have passed.

 

[erover82]

The only thing that has me scratching my head on this incredible build is that you are doing this to a RHD! I like them alright, but this is so much time and energy…. Hard for ME to imagine it. However, it isn’t mine and obviously you love the added feature of RHD, and ain’t nothing wrong with that! One of best build threads on here!

Even got a LHD bulkhead sitting out back. This one isn’t being built as a daily driver though, but purely for enjoyment with my sons. I don’t have a strong preference either way, but I do appreciate the ease of maintenance on RHD. They boys like the novelty of RHD and their vote is strong. It also helps that I live in a somewhat rural area so I don’t contend with toll booths, drive throughs, traffic, etc. Personally, driving on the wrong side, the lack of AC, the utilitarian early dash, the clattering mechanical diesel, the complete lack of in-car entertainment, etc, is all part of the unique experience. The one thing I hate though is rattles, so that’s the primary reason I’m investing in a premium sound deadening strategy.

 

[blueboy]

driving on the wrong side

When we first moved to Japan had to drive out to the airport and fetch the Labs out of quarantine. It was the first time driving there. The Company lent me a car to use - RHD and a manual! It was very strange at first yet you get used to it. Had a RHD ‘96 D1 while there. Always seemed to me that the controls were laid out for a RHD Rover.

 

[Siia109]

Maybe you are better than me - but when I rebuild my RHD '66 SIIa 109 over 4 years (no where near your level of restoration) and then I would take it down the country dirt roads of VT - I would cringe at the sound of the gravel ricocheting around under the car thinking off all the road rash that is occuring, and then the cloud of dust that would drift into every crack and crevice knowing I could never get it as clean as when I built it. Drove me loopy - I would come home and try to wipe it down as well as look for something leaking or not right and I finally realized - this is not enjoyable.
My NAS D90 is coming up on 100K miles and that was when I kinda targeted a major rebuild - and now I am thinking maybe the same thing will happen again
Thanks for the post - Cheers -