Boost Leak?
- Thread starter burlsube
- Start date
I guess, with the filter not being correct, I tend to worry about the quality of the rest of the conversion. That being said, I would post up some more engine pictures. It can help in trying to solve these issues if we know all of the facts on what was done. When no information is provided, I just assume that you have a complete stock install and many times the problems are related to conversion work that has not been done correctly.
So what you want to do is remove the return line that comes from the injection pump and the one that goes to the tank from the filter and plug those ports. Join or redo the piping so the return line goes directly from the injection pump to the tank.
And get a better filter in there ASAP. Personally I like the Stanadyne FM-100. It mounts to the stock location. Use a 6", 2 micron filter.
And get a better filter in there ASAP. Personally I like the Stanadyne FM-100. It mounts to the stock location. Use a 6", 2 micron filter.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
The routing looks a little funky, I had similar when I first converted my truck. It can cause air to be trapped and makes it hard to bleed after a filter change or running out of fuel.
here is my suggestion on routing:
Tank>Liftpump IN>Liftpump OUT> filter in> Filter out>Injection pump in
also
Injectors drain/leak off daisy chain > rear of injection pump > tank return
the other connections on the stock filter assembly can be blocked off.
EDIT: pics in this thread may be helpful. You can see the uprated stanadyne fm100 here with a optional hand priming pump on top, clear water bowl and Cat 2 micron filter. I also plumbed a racor 150micron screen prefilter in place of the stock sedimenter
The stock filter you have is 10 micron it works well. The stock LR later TDI filter uses a 13micron 6in long element.
https://nas-row.com/showthread.php?t=1347&highlight=stainless+fuel+lines
here is my suggestion on routing:
Tank>Liftpump IN>Liftpump OUT> filter in> Filter out>Injection pump in
also
Injectors drain/leak off daisy chain > rear of injection pump > tank return
the other connections on the stock filter assembly can be blocked off.
EDIT: pics in this thread may be helpful. You can see the uprated stanadyne fm100 here with a optional hand priming pump on top, clear water bowl and Cat 2 micron filter. I also plumbed a racor 150micron screen prefilter in place of the stock sedimenter
The stock filter you have is 10 micron it works well. The stock LR later TDI filter uses a 13micron 6in long element.
https://nas-row.com/showthread.php?t=1347&highlight=stainless+fuel+lines
Thanks. That makes sense. I do have an issue that I couldnt track down which was I am always leaking fuel out of the overflow line if it is more than half full. Maybe some air is being introduces somewhere in the current set up. Is the routing above the stock set up? Im going off of the workshop document.
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Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Well that pic is of the later filter head so it won't be very helpful to you.
Yes this is the routing you want. Our can also add a electric fuel pump near the tank to make it totally self bleeding. I don't have one as the hand primer on top of my fm100 does the same job
The fm100, stock style you have and the later stock elements all use cellulose (paper) filter media. The difference is the routing and the size of the element.
Smaller elements need changing more often essentially
Yes this is the routing you want. Our can also add a electric fuel pump near the tank to make it totally self bleeding. I don't have one as the hand primer on top of my fm100 does the same job
The fm100, stock style you have and the later stock elements all use cellulose (paper) filter media. The difference is the routing and the size of the element.
Smaller elements need changing more often essentially
He already has a later filter head on hand that he can install.