Best audio setup for a ROW 110?

defender_verde

Active member
I'm daily driving my ROW 110 and trying to add in at least some creature comforts. I'm not talking heated seats or air conditioning... I'm talking a stereo. I don't want to do anything crazy as I intend to do a 100% frame off restoration of the car in a few years, but I've been added small things here and there to help with the experience. As my car didn't come from the factory fitted with a stereo, I was curious if anyone has any insight into a basic setup. The former Spanish owner has a tape player installed with a single, very small speaker mounted on the driver's side roof. I'm going to remove all of that along with the crappy Spanish wiring that I've been finding in different places all around the car's few electronics...

Anyone have any recommendations? Am I better off just going to a local audio shop, giving them the parameters, and say "make it work?"
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
I had a very basic single disc player installed in a generic under dash mount right to the left of your left knee(RHD) and two probably 6" speakers mounted in the under dash on passenger and driver side. It was acceptable for listening to music but realize that without dumping a lot of money into a lot of components you will never achieve a decent amount of sound or quality. You're combating a significant amount of wind noise and engine/driveline noise with a limited amount of speaker locations.

I took mine to a shop and they did it for a very cheap amount of money. This was when I lived in the UK. They were familiar with Defenders. Any shop should be able to figure it out.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
I installed a basic media deck with usb and bluetooth with some focal speakers and utilizing the decks amp. Sounds fantastic to a non audiophile. Keep it simple. No amps/subs/tweeters etc. I have 4 focal 5.25 in the stock location and it is plenty of sound.
 

defender_verde

Active member
I installed a basic media deck with usb and bluetooth with some focal speakers and utilizing the decks amp. Sounds fantastic to a non audiophile. Keep it simple. No amps/subs/tweeters etc. I have 4 focal 5.25 in the stock location and it is plenty of sound.

What kind of music are you listening too without a sub? Mud makes a sub box that goes under the arm rest and raises it up a few inches (which honestly would make the more comfortable anyway). I'm thinking of just going to a basic place and saying "here's X amount that I want to spend, here's what I want to have". I just need basic USB and bluetooth. The real stuff will come later.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Issue with taking it to stereo shop and saying "hook me up" is they are used to cutting and drilling holes in vehicles and not having owners get upset.
 

defender_verde

Active member
Issue with taking it to stereo shop and saying "hook me up" is they are used to cutting and drilling holes in vehicles and not having owners get upset.

I thought about this, but I'd be very specific about what is ok and whats not and if they couldn't do it, no problem, on to the next one. Maybe the answer is bluetooth speaker? I have a cheap one in there now that's awful.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
For speakers in the rear, go up top with 6 3/4", I have the Focal AC165's there.

Going up is better directional sound than the tin boxes under the rear quarter windows. The sound just gets deflected of the back seats and goes nowhere.

I make the upholstered panels to order, they mount to existing hardware in the in the roof on 110's and 90 hard tops.
 

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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I thought about something like Kicker 40PXIBT50.2 where you head unit is your phone. But my trucks too dang noisy to make that worth while
 

DiscoDavis

Well-known member
RBB,

You bring up a very interesting question, has anyone adapted vehicle comms for these that arent military 24v? I use a pair of COMTAC II's sometimes when driving and wouldn't mind having the ability to use the PTT for vehicle comms to a codriver, and listen to music.

Otherwise who has the best bluetooth wireless speaker like the UE mega boom or whatever? I have a standard jambox from a few years ago that works ok, but not good enough for un-insulated 110 driving 65 with a tdi and 1.4 tc...
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
You shouldn't have to PTT to talk to passengers. That's only for transmitting. It could simply be ignored unless you got real serious and hooked up your HAM. It is something I've considered, but depends on how loud the thing turns out to be once all is said and done.
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
I have an eight inch sub installed under my cubby box. Two six inch three way pioneer speakers in the rear, uprated four inch two way in the lower dash spaces as well as two four inch (one on each side) in the front cubby box). I also have a centre channel speaker in the dash top ashtray spot.

All this is driven by the in dash centre console single DIN head unit in the MUD UK console. The stereo has a fold out seven inch screen for interface and GPS mapping. Sound is awesome and it was all installed for under $350 CDN.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
RBB,

You bring up a very interesting question, has anyone adapted vehicle comms for these that arent military 24v? I use a pair of COMTAC II's sometimes when driving and wouldn't mind having the ability to use the PTT for vehicle comms to a codriver, and listen to music.

Otherwise who has the best bluetooth wireless speaker like the UE mega boom or whatever? I have a standard jambox from a few years ago that works ok, but not good enough for un-insulated 110 driving 65 with a tdi and 1.4 tc...

I've looked into this. I found a circuit for adapting aviation headsets to ham radio:

http://docsbydesign.com/2015/10/31/aircraft-headset-to-ham-radio-adapter/

The key requirement is active noise reduction in the headset. There are a few options here. However, if you want music, too, your options are very few. Basically, the Bose A20 and it's big bucks. It can automatically mute your music when the radio is receiving. I just wish it was a little more bomber like the David Clark headsets, though I've heard those are not very comfortable for extended periods. Dave could probably comment here.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
David Clark headsets are the pilot version of waterboarding. They are torture to the head and their noise cancelation is based on how hard they squeeze the seal against your skull. Despite that hearing loss will still occur based on my experience. I now own a Bose A20 and they work absolutely amazing and can be worn for many hours at a time without discomfort however they are very pricy.
The absolute best bang for the buck and would be perfect for this application is from here:
https://uflymike.com.
They work great and the headset isn't 100% aviation based so it can be used as a normal headset when desired.
 
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nas90tdi

Well-known member
2nd on the David Whites. They work by making your ears and head hurt so bad you completely forget about the engine and prop noise.

But, I have to ask, exactly how loud are you guys Rovers?
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I drive a soft-top three-door ex-MOD 110. It's about the noisiest Defender configuration in existence. No insulation, no door cards, loud diesel, huge reverberation chamber behind you. It's ridiculously loud.
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
If you're going to buy headsets I would recommend that you spend some time with them on your head to see how they actually fit your head.

I have used the bose in big jets and the David Clarks. I personally liked the David Clarks with hush kit and foam ear plugs. The noise cancelation on the bose was great but I never liked how they say on my head. There are a lot of different types of ear cups. Find what feels the best for you and go for it.

With flight helmets I have larger triangle shaped ear cups and have to wear a skull cap to make it all feel right.

If you are concerned about hearing loss, though, then double ear protection is a must.
 
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