Anti-Seize, Thread Locker, & Torque Values


Callsign: KN6CPK

I've been reading a bit online regarding how the use of anti-seize can affect torque values. Is there an expert on this forum who can walk me through exactly how to re-calculate torque values when using anti-seize? What are the various factors to take into account when making a calculation?

Also, when working with brake and suspension components that are prone to rust, how many of you use anti-seize (to protect against seizing bolts) vs. using thread locker (to ensure bolts do not loosen)? Is this a matter of calculating ones individual risk factors (living in southern Arizona vs. the east coast), or are there brake/suspension components that always require one or the other (anti-seize vs. thread locker) no matter the circumstance?

For instance, I've always anti-seized my caliper bolts because I have a healthy fear of needing to remove a caliper out in the field... only to have the caliper bolt seized and eventually strip. I'm not certain this is best practice, but has thus far worked well for me. Since I 4wheel regularly in remote areas, I need to remove parts without getting into an unwelcome situation (stripped bolts) out in the field; although, this approach leaves me vulnerable to having bolts work themselves loose on washboards, etc.

Thanks for your guys' input.

Unless there is proven reason to deviate, fasteners should be installed according to service specs. Examples include using light oil on head bolts, anti-seize on lug nuts, and thread locking compound of the correct type in the several places it's called for.

Unless states otherwise, torque values are specified dry, so any compound applied to threads can greatly affect preload. However, this depends on the type of compound applied. Loctite recommends reducing torque values by 20% when applying thread locker to threads who's torque values are specified dry.

This article covers anti-seize in depth:
I'd contact the manufacturer of the specific anti-seize you wish to use and ask for their recommendations.

That said, in the case of suspension, you don't want an anti-seize lubricant for its lubricating properties, you want it for its anticorrosion properties. Who wants their suspension fasters to be more likely to loosen due to being lubricated? Who wants to negate the locking action nylon locknuts ? Who wants to have to recalculate torque values on every fastener? No sane person. This is why I use Permatex 57535, a hybrid thread sealant and locker, on all exposed fasteners and reduce torque values by 10% to compensate for its slight lubricity. It's not a strong locker, so it doesn't cause headaches on disassembly.
Last edited:


Well-known member
I slather almost everything in antiseize. Obviously not things that are internal to the engine or things like that. I also put thread locker on caliper bolts rather than antiseize because danger will rogers.

As to your question, the information I have seen is 20-40% reduction in torque to get the same clamping force. There are a lot of variables in torque value like it has greater clamping force if you reuse the old bolt than a new bolt etc.

If you want to slow corrosion, I also recommend spraying things after. I use PB Blaster brand corrosion stop.
I also put thread locker on caliper bolts rather than antiseize because danger will rogers.

Yeah, the factory caliper bolts come with thread locker pre-applied which also reduces moisture ingress and corrosion. Thread locking compound should always be applied to re-used caliper bolts.


Callsign: KN4JHI
For things like caliper bolts, i would just get new hardware. They come from the factory with patch lock on them.

I wouldn’t overthink the torque specs for suspension components. You’re probably not going to break the bolts from over tightening with antiseize