Air struts for lr3
- Thread starter phunter
- Start date
crashnburn07
Active member
I've had the front Britpart ones since 2020 (replacing the originals from 2005).
Still good so far.
Arnott seems to be the aftermarket standard. I bought "OEM" air struts from LRdirect and they came in Britpart boxes. I think Dunlop is OEM supplier.
The LRDirect supplied ones were a joy to have installed. I noticed the front end felt a ton better. My part number was RNB501580G.TR. Which is BWI. I think the shipping from England has become more reasonable these days. Also I would check advanced factors as well. If you need lower control arms, do those at the same time. Also replace the tie rods while there.
Some tips:
The LRDirect supplied ones were a joy to have installed. I noticed the front end felt a ton better. My part number was RNB501580G.TR. Which is BWI. I think the shipping from England has become more reasonable these days. Also I would check advanced factors as well. If you need lower control arms, do those at the same time. Also replace the tie rods while there.
Some tips:
- Get new hardware. The lower bolts can seize and die. Also if you accidentally lose a top nut, its gone...forever... Have spares.
- Trim a piece of the air hose off, like 1/8" or so. You can see where the air fitting on the strut "dug in" into the hose. By trimming, you offer a new piece of pipe for the new air fitting to dig into.
crashnburn07
Active member
+1 on the LCA and tie rods.
I did the same thing.
when replacing front air struts on lr 3 is it necessary to remove the plastic wheel well cladding to have room to remove the air hose? Do you have to go from under the hood to get the back upper bolt loose? should I depressurize the system by loosening air hose fitting at the block or is okay to just remove the air hose on the shock directly and let the air out from there? Sorry for the dumb questions to some folks. Just hoping for a roadmap for what is needed to do this job with some jack stands , floor jack and wrenches. thanks for the advice I hope will follow.
sincerely
sincerely
Arnott are bottom of the barrel
Could you elaborate on the process?
Thanks for your reply. When I installed the rear air struts I removed the air line directly from the shock without any depressurization at the block or with a gap tool. This led to the strut moving some once the air line was loosened. To access the line the lower bolt was removed and the strut was pulled out some.
To do the front shocks is it more prudent to take the wheel liner out? To depressurize at the block? Thanks for any words of guidance
To do the front shocks is it more prudent to take the wheel liner out? To depressurize at the block? Thanks for any words of guidance
i got the struts on all around and still have the dsc kicking on around corners. the vehicle raises quickly. it does not appear to leak or sag after sitting at off road position overnight. when going around the turns the dsc kick s on and sometimes i get suspension fault light on. with the navigation screen set to 4 x4 there appears to be a dip in the bar on the left rear. is the next step to fix my problem to buy the left rear ride height sensor and plug it in and all be good?. should i replace all sensors? is it not a simple task without some gap calibration tool which i do not have. lr3 hse with 150 on it. i am only owner and willing to try to fix things. thanks for any words of wisdom.
For giggle and shenanigans, check the air connection at the top of the air bag. It sounds like its leaking and when the air suspension moves, it leaks. I had the same problem.
If you have air bubbles, remove the air hose from the top of the air bag, trim 1/4" from the tube, and re-install. Should fix it. You can install a new fitting as well (I would recommend this but you can probably be ok not doing that).
So yeah, check that first because I feel like that is the actual problem. Also the cheapest.
If you have air bubbles, remove the air hose from the top of the air bag, trim 1/4" from the tube, and re-install. Should fix it. You can install a new fitting as well (I would recommend this but you can probably be ok not doing that).
So yeah, check that first because I feel like that is the actual problem. Also the cheapest.
Technically yes you should calibrate the sensor, but in practice using the factory diagnostic tool, the calibration doesn’t always work. I wouldn’t hesitate to replace the sensor without calibrating
I use the GAP tool. Calibration is easy with the GAP IID tool.
You do need a metric ruler. So getting a 1 meter level and a friend IS THE WAY (Actually I think you can set it to use freedom units but I do have...the other units on the level, so I just do that). Have the friend do the measurement while you do the calibration.
The calibration is so easy I do it before every alignment. It does cost me beer for the helper, but a beer well spent.
Real talk, if you road tripping with a LR3, a GAP tool in the glovebox is the ultimate tool.
You do need a metric ruler. So getting a 1 meter level and a friend IS THE WAY (Actually I think you can set it to use freedom units but I do have...the other units on the level, so I just do that). Have the friend do the measurement while you do the calibration.
The calibration is so easy I do it before every alignment. It does cost me beer for the helper, but a beer well spent.
Real talk, if you road tripping with a LR3, a GAP tool in the glovebox is the ultimate tool.