A Memorial re-power of sorts

SARTech

Well-known member
During the month of February and likely into March I will be doing a re-power of my 1989 D90. It currently has a J19 motor and Ill be upgrading it to a 200TDi and doing a few other things along the way.

The memorial part is that it was my wife and I desires to do some overloading and offloading in it. She passed a way Feb of 2018. Im planning on this Feb to be a hard month on me because I miss her very much and its just plane hard loosing your best friend and wife for 29 years. So I want to fix some of the things she didn’t like about Landy and get it road worth so that I can take it on some trips. I have booked the fire lookout tower in North Idaho where we had our honeymoon at 1989. This June would of been our 30 year anniversary and I want to drive the Landy to the tower in June.

She like the quirkiness of the Landy, she liked the uniqueness and she really like the fact that it had been a long time desire of mine that I have a Defender and we were finally able to get one. She always had an outlook of one that liked to enjoy the now because tomorrow is not promised.

She didn’t like the smoke Landy produced. She didn’t like the rattles and the passenger door not shutting very well. She also always thought it should ride a little better.

What needs to be done:
Timing belt install
Replace engine gaskets
Install the 200TDi along with the transmission and transferase that came along with the motor. Which I got from NAS-ROW member ‘madscientist’ (Oliver). This is a Defender 200 so should be a pretty easy swap.
Install all new gauges
Install new suspension, springs, shocks and bushings.
Reseal front swivel balls
Breaks
Replace door hinges and seals, get doors to shut somewhat easier.
Fix a few water leaks.
Fix a couple dents.
Install some insulation, mainly to prevent the inside from sweating when it cold outside.

Some where along the line it will get a full restoration but now is not the time or place.
Things i need:
Radiator.
Suspension, looking for suggestion on that.
Suspension bushings.
An idea of what the paint color is.
Insulation and sound deadening.
Im going to try to get a Rockware bumper, still need to call them.

So lots more to come. Follow along and feel free to add advise and suggestions, please.
Pat
 

Attachments

JimC

Well-known member
Oh man, this is heartbreaking. At the same time, I can appreciate the idea of following her ideas as a way to keep her memory current. I’d be doing the same thing.

Watching with interest.
 

Dan kemper

Moderator
Callsign: KK6ECF
Thank you for sharing and so very sorry for your loss. Good luck on this project. you will like the tdi so much more. Keep the suspension simple. 90s do not like to be lifted over 2 inches or so unless you are prepared to chase all of the issues that changing geometry with a tall lift will cause. I have some suspension bits if you are staying stockish. I will be compiling a list and listing on the board for a good deal. Dan
 

SARTech

Well-known member
Thank you for sharing and so very sorry for your loss. Good luck on this project. you will like the tdi so much more. Keep the suspension simple. 90s do not like to be lifted over 2 inches or so unless you are prepared to chase all of the issues that changing geometry with a tall lift will cause. I have some suspension bits if you are staying stockish. I will be compiling a list and listing on the board for a good deal. Dan
Thanks Dan, Yes keeping the suspension mostly stock. A question about that is, when I look at shock and spring kits that are mostly listed as standard and heavy duty? Not sure which to go with. The shocks and springs appear to be stock so Im pretty sure I will see an improvement with anything.I do plan on installing a winch and winch bumper so im leaning towards those labels as heavy duty.
 

rocky

Well-known member
What a great way to memorialize your wife's life and love. She'll be there with you on the road.

If you want to simply add a winch and no lift, all you need are stiffer spring rate front springs. Shocks go with Bilsteins-great for road orientated vehicles. Problem with springs and winches is that they often go hand in hand with lift-which you don't want. Which pushes me to suggest that you talk with Travis at RN about a genuine front spring set up perhaps from the D1 tdi. He's very responsive to Emails.

There is a great thread here on sound reduction. So far I have dynamatted everything possible and that alone makes a great difference. Your primary focus is going to be engine noise reduction. When the hood is off for the repower, turn it over and have gravity help you put dynamat and hoodliner on the underside.

Hope you'll share with us your journey.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Glencoyne, engine mounts when he has them. They will cure 90% of the rattles. Good luck.

Edit, also fit them to the gearbox.
 

Adam

Well-known member
If I have any valuable 200tdi spares (likely radiator, intercooler) from my recent work with Douglas, I'm happy to contribute for the cost of shipping.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
I started cleaning up the motor, transmission and t-case. Got them moved up from the barn and onto engine stands. For the motor i will be replacing the P gasket and timing belt. Replacing all the gaskets with the exception of the head gasket and adjusting the valves. Replacing the seals and cover gaskets on the transmission and transferase as well. Ill send the flywheel out for resurfacing and install a new clutch. Seriously thinking of installing the X-brake in place of the drum parking brake. Any thing else I should do?
 

Attachments

Napalm00

Well-known member
Do the rear main, Tseals and the clutch housing to block paper gasket while it is out. When you do the timing belt also do the waterpump and the thermostats housing gasket as both cant be done with the timing case/belt in place.

Maybe add a block heater depending on locale.

Replace the LR valve lash cap with the VW empi ones https://www.amazon.com/Empi-4006-0-Hardened-Valve-1600Cc/dp/B00EQFNF2K

On the trans and Tcase all exterior bolts should get ARP thread sealant

Tcase layshft Oring should be replaced as you cant get it it when installed.


Sorry for your loss :(
 

NPT90

Well-known member
Thank you for sharing, so sorry to hear of your loss :(

definitely agree on the rear main seal, T seals (I think the 200 has them) and I would definitely do the oil pan with some RTV to help chase down future leaks (when I did my 300TDI it was clear the mating surface wasn't exactly flush). Thread sealant 1000% had my bell-housing bolts break free and that was an awful experience!) Do the prop-shafts (at least balance them) and grease everything while you can. Full axle rebuilds are cheap but time consuming but the experience is invaluable if you're planning a long road trip (will also help you discern part numbers ect in case you get in a bind)

I don't have a winch but I do have a high lift that can be used in a pinch. a well running defender 90 is hard to stop offroad if you're responsible, it's sort of the last thing on my list. X-brake is a great idea and should be as reliable (and much simpler) then the drum setup. If you're going through it anyway I might look into a RRC E-brake setup for the top of the seat-box, the mod is well documented, I purchased one but haven't installed it yet.

I'd say an aftermarket 200tdi radiator setup will get you going, alisport is nice but spendy, I would spend my money elsewhere if you're on a budget. Flushing your intercooler and checking the evaporator setup would be my primary concerns.

As far as bushings, I just did my truck with Superpro and I am extremely happy with the results, everyone has an opinion but when they are installed correctly and torqued to spec that are really rock solid and look to be a great upgrade (plus you can swap them out down the road with pre bagged kits). Took me nearly 2 days to get the LR interference style 2-piece bushings out, I guess if I had a press it wouldn't been easier but after that experience I realized they would be a huge PITA to replace down the road. Superpro installs with a bench vice and some patience (helps to have someone holding the suspension bit you are working on). I also bought some inexpensive 'cranked' trailing arms from RN (seems to be britpart) that made a world of difference in the rear tracking (I don't run sway bars).

OME suspension +1.5" was tip top (rovers north), and required no additional suspension modifications. Paddocks sells rear shock mount kits with the correct washers and new hardware for short $. Worth investing since you are going to be replacing the shocks it sounds like and the cupped washers are often lost or never there to begin with. Your first spring and shock swap will take you 2 hours, the rest will take you 20 minutes.

I have a small set of spacers I run, not just for looks but definitely helps with stability with the wider stance, there are pro's and cons but I would go with a well known manufacturer thats LR specific for these, I think mine are maybe an inch, helps with stop to stop turning as well (helpful when parallel parking or pulling a U-turn).

Sound proofing is something I have looked into but haven't done yet. Honestly just going through with a 'grommet kit' (like this) and getting all the bulkhead holes to nowhere helped a lot with water ingress and noise. replacing things like the heater gasket and other rubber is a no brainer since your engine is out of there. Check things like the hood gasket (runs along the bulkhead and seals the hood when closed) and the rubber isolators for the hood. Also weather stripping the dash when I put it back together (just cheap 3M D style gasket) took a lot of the shakes and rattles out of the dash and made it feel rock solid (also isolated against noise). If I wanted a quick solution I would look into the fatmat or dynamat solutions as they are well documented. Some great resources here on the forum as well.

Good luck on your trip, best way to keep a loved ones memory is to honor them with your deeds, no better place to find someone everywhere then every place you go.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
[QUOTE="Napalm00,
Maybe add a block heater depending on local [/QUOTE]

Thanks for the reminder about a block heater, defiantly want to install one of those. Ill be moving to NW Montana probably going to need that.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
NPT90, thanks much for the info. I ordered the Superpro bushings and the X-brake.
Got a lot done today on the motor. Some parts off and cleaned up even got a couple pieces painted.
Did run into one issue. I had planned on putting in a new bearing and seals in the turbo, during disassembly I noted several cracks in the turbo exhaust housing. Several in the exhaust impeller side and one in the waste gate valve seat.
Not sure what to do about that. There is no budget for a new turbo. Thinking to put it back together and let it roll. What do you think????
 

Attachments

NPT90

Well-known member
NPT90, thanks much for the info. I ordered the Superpro bushings and the X-brake.
Got a lot done today on the motor. Some parts off and cleaned up even got a couple pieces painted.
Did run into one issue. I had planned on putting in a new bearing and seals in the turbo, during disassembly I noted several cracks in the turbo exhaust housing. Several in the exhaust impeller side and one in the waste gate valve seat.
Not sure what to do about that. There is no budget for a new turbo. Thinking to put it back together and let it roll. What do you think????
There are really 2 kits for the superpro bushings, make sure you get the right ones for your radius arms!
 

NPT90

Well-known member
NPT90, thanks much for the info. I ordered the Superpro bushings and the X-brake.
Got a lot done today on the motor. Some parts off and cleaned up even got a couple pieces painted.
Did run into one issue. I had planned on putting in a new bearing and seals in the turbo, during disassembly I noted several cracks in the turbo exhaust housing. Several in the exhaust impeller side and one in the waste gate valve seat.
Not sure what to do about that. There is no budget for a new turbo. Thinking to put it back together and let it roll. What do you think????
Maybe you can get away with buying a new cartridge? Seems like you have already done the hard part

Check out Turbo Rebuild in the UK looks like you can get a new uprated 200TDI CHRA for less than $300 to your door
 

SARTech

Well-known member
After sleeping on the turbo problem I really didn't want it to be an issue. I found a new one from LR Direct at a reasonable price and order it. Just didn't want the turbo to always be on my mind as a possible problem. One objective of this re-power is to make the rig reliable (well as reliable as I can make it) to be able to use it. Thanks for the input.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
Haven't made as much progress as I would like but getting there. The motor is pretty much all done. New timing belt, valves adjusted, new gaskets and seals, installed block heater, new fuel pump, tapped the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe. Im holding off on bolting up the turbo because want to confirm the placement of the EGT thermocouple. Need to take the flywheel into town to be resurfaced. Hope to start resealing the transmission and transfer case tomorrow. That shouldn't take long.
During this project I was able to use some of my grandfathers tools, used a stud remover/installer and decided to use his ratchet and extension also. The stud gripper remover/installer dates back to the late 30s and the Snap-On ratchet is from approximately 1927.


728672887289729072917287
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Wow, sad... my condolences. Good in yah for doing these memorial upgrades. Just wanted to suggest that when you do your door, don’t cheap out on the door seals a dget genuine or OEM only. Stay away from aftermarket. Check the door strikers if the plastic on the stricker is dented, chipped or gone get new strickers as well. Resealimg doors and setting them up properly is fiddley and can take a while but its also quite easy, take your time. You can get that satisfying thud when you close it.

For the best ride quality stick with genuine (non HD) springs and shocks, Land Rover had it right when they left the factory.

Good luck on the work
 
Top