4.2 RRC.... Dies While Driving

[RBBailey]

A while back the truck died a few times in a row, just as the engine temp was coming up to normal, and just as I came to a stop at an intersection. I measured the distance on a map, and each time it died I was something like 3.3 miles from the cold start.

Time goes by. Truck runs really well.

Saturday, same thing happens just as I pull up to a stop sign. This time, it starts, dies, starts, dies. After I left it for a few hours on the side of the road, so as to think about it's transgressions, it started up fine and ran well for the rest of the week. Till today.

Today, it did the same thing. Only this time it died while at full operating temps and while driving 55 mph. It died, died, died. Acted normal. Then died completely as I coasted to a stop on the side of the road. Turns over fine, just no spark/catch.

After a half hour, it started fine, drove almost all the way home, then died again and had to be towed the rest of the way.

At first, when it was dying at the stop at 3.3 miles from a cold start, that pattern seemed to suggest that it had something to do with the computer and the fuel injection and intake not talking to one another correctly as the motor moves from a cold air to warm air intake program.... er.... something like that.

But now it dies while warm and while under power. There is nothing odd or strange happening other than it just dies, then won't start.

I think I might have some idea of what is going on, but I wanted to run it by all of you to see if you might suggest the same thing I'm thinking.

 

[rover4x4]

I swear this is so typical of a failing ignition module. If it dies again, pop the hood let it cool. Me thinks if it starts up after cooling a bit its the ignition module

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/classic/electrical/ignitionmod.html
http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.html#ignition

Seems there have been a streak of 14cux problems these days, they are all well beyond my paygrade. My Classic has been down for quite some time with similar issues, sometimes it runs well - most of the time it doesnt. I need to let it go to someone else but I know I can never replace it...

 

[MountainD]

What year is the truck?

 

[rover4x4]

at least a 95

 

[Uncle Douglas]

A while back the truck died a few times in a row, just as the engine temp was coming up to normal, and just as I came to a stop at an intersection. I measured the distance on a map, and each time it died I was something like 3.3 miles from the cold start.

Time goes by. Truck runs really well.

Saturday, same thing happens just as I pull up to a stop sign. This time, it starts, dies, starts, dies. After I left it for a few hours on the side of the road, so as to think about it's transgressions, it started up fine and ran well for the rest of the week. Till today.

Today, it did the same thing. Only this time it died while at full operating temps and while driving 55 mph. It died, died, died. Acted normal. Then died completely as I coasted to a stop on the side of the road. Turns over fine, just no spark/catch.

After a half hour, it started fine, drove almost all the way home, then died again and had to be towed the rest of the way.

At first, when it was dying at the stop at 3.3 miles from a cold start, that pattern seemed to suggest that it had something to do with the computer and the fuel injection and intake not talking to one another correctly as the motor moves from a cold air to warm air intake program.... er.... something like that.

But now it dies while warm and while under power. There is nothing odd or strange happening other than it just dies, then won't start.

I think I might have some idea of what is going on, but I wanted to run it by all of you to see if you might suggest the same thing I'm thinking.

I'd start with the rotor and then move to ignition amp. If the ignition amp on yours is still mounted on the side of the distributor consider getting the AB relocation kit. Heat kills electronics.

My first classic died while @ the beach one weekend back in the 90's. The truck was 4 yrs old. If I opened the hood and let it cool down it would start and drive until I got caught in beach traffic and it would die again. I waited until the sun went down and traffic died down and was able to drive it the three hours home. I now travel with a spare amp and cap and rotor.

 

[RBBailey]

Thanks for the info.

Here's a newb question that I really should know the answer to: How do you change the cap and rotor, especially on a V8, without messing up the timing? When I had to do the timing on the Series, I found that rotating the dizzy just 1 degree in either direction made a big difference. I was always afraid to touch the cap on the V8 because it seems like just bumping it would change the spacing between the rotor arm and the contacts.

 

[Maine57S1]

Having the same issue with my 90 RRC..

This is the kit I've been looking for but seems incredibly expensive domestically.

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=STC1856

and sold out internationally

http://www.simonbbc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1618

Be interested if you are able to find a reasonably priced source for it.

 

[RBBailey]

LOL! I only paid $1000 for the whole car.

 

[Kevin88RRC]

That's crazy money! Island4x4 shows it in stock for a tenth of that price. http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-stc1856-p-32279.html

You could also DIY.... http://jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/icm.htm or check with some of the people parting cars for a kit.

Cap is simple to R&R. Two metal clips hold it on and you do not have to move the dizzy at all. Be very careful with the rotor. If it is stuck on and you your use force, you will most likely mess up the mechanical advance. Some recommend a chisel to split it off. I put dielectric grease in to prevent it from seizing.

 

[RBBailey]

Thought about DIY, but doubt I could pull that off myself.

Is there a test for this, to see if this is the real problem?

As far as the dizzy cap, I know what you mean. It is just something that has bugged me how little margin there was for adjustment on turning the dizzy versus how imprecise the cap seems when you put it on.

 

[Kevin88RRC]

Is there a test for this, to see if this is the real problem?

Next time it dies, try cooling it maybe with some canned air or something.

Also check the wires between the coil & the dizzy. They can get baked from being near the exhaust manifold. Learned that the hard way after my first rebuild.

 

[Maine57S1]

That's crazy money! Island4x4 shows it in stock for a tenth of that price. http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-stc1856-p-32279.html

You could also DIY.... http://jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/icm.htm or check with some of the people parting cars for a kit.

Cap is simple to R&R. Two metal clips hold it on and you do not have to move the dizzy at all. Be very careful with the rotor. If it is stuck on and you your use force, you will most likely mess up the mechanical advance. Some recommend a chisel to split it off. I put dielectric grease in to prevent it from seizing.

I asked for a shipping quote on this item from island a week ago and never heard back.

 

[Kevin88RRC]

Rimmer Bros offer an affordable aftermarket remote kit. Does not look as well made as the Genuine kit though. https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-STC1856P

 

[RBBailey]

I have not had a second to even pop the hood on this thing. Thanks for the input. I'll update when I get the chance.

 

[RBBailey]

Looks like original module. I'll check in town for one tomorrow, then order one if I cannot find.

 

[blueboy]

If indeed the original module, after 22 years I would say it has served its function well.

After looking at the relocation kits and the prices, I'm thinking to just proactively replace mine with either OEM or maybe Proline from RN and carry an extra Proline one with me.


Basically the Unc Douglas concept.

 

[rocky]

I'd start with the coil. Those things leak overheat and fail

 

[signalMTB]

agree with the ignition module comments. Also could be a failing fuel pump, and/or check the relays under the seat

 

[RBBailey]

I have a used but should-still-work module that I want to try swapping. However, I can't reach it unless I pull the distributor.

But I can't get to the nut to loosen the dizzy. I've removed the cap, I've removed the coolant hose, and I've managed to get my socket extension into the slot between the dizzy and the engine, but it is a good 10-12mm off to the side. I can't fit my extension in there with the elbow attached to get around the corner, and there is no place to get a wrench in from the side.

Anyone ever do this without removing the radiator or the head?

 

[Uncle Douglas]

I have a used but should-still-work module that I want to try swapping. However, I can't reach it unless I pull the distributor.

But I can't get to the nut to loosen the dizzy. I've removed the cap, I've removed the coolant hose, and I've managed to get my socket extension into the slot between the dizzy and the engine, but it is a good 10-12mm off to the side. I can't fit my extension in there with the elbow attached to get around the corner, and there is no place to get a wrench in from the side.

Anyone ever do this without removing the radiator or the head?

I use a short box wrench from and come in from in front