300 TDI rear main seal question

RiftRover

Well-known member
Hey guys,
I'm about to do the rear main seal and the clutch on the 300 TDI in my RRC. Any recommendations for a gasket sealer for the gasket on the rear main seal? I obviously don't want to do this again any time soon...

TIA
 

Wilboro

Well-known member
Everyone swears by Right stuff and that's what I used between the block and the seal carrier. No gasket used. Thats what turner engineering recommends.

I also used the international 2.8 rear seal with is Repotedly much better.

This is in my 300tdi defender. I assume the RRC 300 is the same...
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
So no gasket even tho one was used by the factory? I used right stuff on the oil pan on my 200tdi so I know it works well.
 

DefendersNW

Well-known member
Later type seals are meant to be used without gasket - early ones had a gasket.

We use an aviation grade gasket maker (Permatex 80019 or 80017) for close fit applications.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
So how do I know if I should have earlier or later type seal? Are they interchangeable? I've already bought parts and have a gasket to go with the seal. Since this is a conversion I have no information on the age of the engine, although I'm sure its from a disco since it's in an RRC.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
I'll check when i get home, but pretty sure it's LUF100430 since ERR4179 has been superceded. I bought the parts several months ago.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
Confirmed that the seal I have is LUF100430. Is this the later seal that doesn't require a gasket?
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
Anyone have any advice for removing a flywheel that is stuck to the crankshaft? I've hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and it's loose but I can't get it to wiggle off. Thoughts appreciated.
 

DefendersNW

Well-known member
Anyone have any advice for removing a flywheel that is stuck to the crankshaft? I've hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and it's loose but I can't get it to wiggle off. Thoughts appreciated.

A touch of heat can help sometimes...

Use a puller, or fabricate one with square tube across the housing.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
To resurrect an old thread.

When I put my 300 in I replaced every seal ect. Used a LR rear main. I was super careful with it and followed the manual religiously. With the caveat that I didn't wipe the crank down with denatured alcohol or similar to make sure it was squeaky clean. I can't 100% rule out a slight oil contamination. Anyway, within a few hundred miles it started to leak. Since I have just done the install I am obviously not putting up with that.
After a lot of research I kept coming across this issue with the genuine seals leaking. I just installed a Turner seal as that seemed to get the most positive feedback globally.

Any personal experience with the Turner seal?

I am going to put the trans back in tomorrow night. It is definitely made differently and actually makes more sense to me how it seals.

And, you could eat off the crank this time. This is a pain in the ass project I don't like doing.
 

Ash

Active member
The Turner seal is definitely the solution, and I prefer to use them over the factory seal on every 300 that I touch. Cleaning the even polishing the crank to a degree is, as I'm sure you're now realizing, a critical step as any contamination will act as an abrasive against the face of the seal and compromise its ability to perform.

-Ash
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Makes me feel better.

That is all I can come up with. I must have gotten a bit of oil or something on it.
I am far more confident in the Turner seal just based on how it is made. The contact surface on the LR seal is nearly non existent, so I could see how a tiny intrusion of contaminant could push it away from the crank.

I wish I had used the Turner seal initially when the engine was sitting on a cart. Definitely easier. I just hadn't researched Genuine rear main seal leak at that point. It was very informative. Seems all the newer seals are a bit suspect.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
Anyone have any advice for removing a flywheel that is stuck to the crankshaft? I've hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and it's loose but I can't get it to wiggle off. Thoughts appreciated.

Remove the starter and tap the back of the flywheel.
Place a block of wood against the flywheel and tap it with a hammer.
Rotate the engine so as not to cock the flywheel at too steel an angle.
This will get it loose.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
Well unfortunately my engine is long since back in the truck, so I guess we'll see if I get a leak or not. It wasn't actually leaking, I just replaced it because I had the engine out... :( Robert, I ended up using a piece of angle iron with two holes drilled and bolts into the flywheel to evenly draw it off the crank. Worked pretty well.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Hopefully it goes good for you. I don't wish that annoyance on anyone. My original seal wasn't leaking when I got the engine from Doug. I just couldn't see replacing everything but that on the engine. When it started leaking I wasn't near as happy with that decision.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
should I or shouldn't I?

Resurrecting this thread since I have another 300Tdi sitting on the garage floor about to be installed. The previous owner of the engine says the rear seal wasn't leaking. My better judgement says to replace it anyway since it is easy to access right now, but at the same time I don't want to replace it and then have it leak anyway, like seems to happen a lot. Am I crazy to even consider NOT replacing it? Thoughts?
 
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