1995 NAS V8 stalled/won't start

bearskinrug

Well-known member
Rotor. Always do the rotor first on those v8's. Every thread I read ends with - "I replaced the rotor and now it runs"
Second this. Also, is there a solutiin to this problem other than carrying spares? The genuine used to be the best available....
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Then pull the hose from where it makes it to the fuel injectors as a hose delivers fuel and check to insure that the pump is delivering fuel. It doesn't magically appear from the tank to the injector.
Its better to pull the return hose. If there is fuel returning to the tank you know the system is making the requsite pressure for the injectors to work properly. The regulators seldom fail, and the return line is the easier of the two to pull.
 

blueboy

Well-known member
Have been bitten twice by the bad batch of OEM Lucas rotors on my Rangie. Also installed the RN replacement “red rotor” yet now carry a couple of the supposedly good batch of OEM Lucas rotors just in case.

Look forward to hearing the resolution.
 

aeo

Well-known member
Comedians. All of you. Apparently the earlier thread about my 300tdi not starting in the cold was overlooked.
 

rover4x4

Well-known member
JUst thought I would add a post, my Defender had recently began running poorly, stalling, bogging etc. I expect these issues accured 3/5 times I drove it. I had a newish <10k miles GENUINE rotor button, appeared to be uncompromised. I swapped it with the powerspark red rotor button and it hasn't misbehaved in almost 200 miles, will absolutely order more of these to keep in all of the Lucas 35D trucks. I will say the truck idles smoother and throttle response has improved. May also coincide with being driven quite a bit over the last week, AMSOIL power foam treatment, and a couple tanks of V-Power. These trucks really dont like to sit, GET A POWERSPARK ROTOR BUTTON
 

leastonce

Well-known member
Callsign: w2eng
Not sure if you actually have a spark or not ... if you do and it still wont start, check the white wire with black tracer .... this connects to the -ve side of the coil and provides a signal to the ECU that the engine is running and turns the fuel pump on the second time.

The other thing to look at after a bump ... is that the plenum hoses are on tight ... if they got dislodged that could cause no start...

lastly the AICV is always a problem child in rough or no start...
 
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