1.2 vs 1.4 in a 200tdi 110

LiquidMoose

Well-known member
The overdrives are not intended to be used in low gears and not designed to take the torque of using them that way.
Well bummer. My experience is based on a Warn OD I had in a Jeep with the OHC 6 and it was wonderful, usable in any gear.
Are you saying the Roamerdrive is not up to the task as the Warn was?
 

Red90

Well-known member
Correct. It is not intended to be used in low gears and you could break it.

What exact gearbox do you have as that affects 1st and 2nd ratios? You also need to understand the overdrive is a lot more ratio change than a 1.4 to 1.2 change.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks for all the input.
How involved is swapping a T/C? I have access to a lift and shop.


its a one man job with a transmission jack and the lt230 factory style lift adapter

http://www.roverware.us/transfer-case-transmission-jack-adapter/
or just build it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/247514-lt230-jack-lifting-mount.html

without a trans jack two strong dudes can lift one into place by hand , having a driveshaft tool makes it easier

https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnt141_prop_shaft_socket_special_tool


A lift really isnt needed unless your truck is lowered. take the time to replace your mounts if they are toast
 

LiquidMoose

Well-known member
I don't want to derail this thread but..
I live on the West coast and my destinations are days away taking freeways, so my main goal is long gears at highway speeds for comfort and mpgs.
I don't need long gears in 1st or 2nd, just didn't realize the Roamerdrive can't do it.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
Has anyone fit the Ascroft LT230 with the 1.3 ratio?

I HAD a Roamerdrive... which was great for highway long hauls. Doing a comfortable 80mph on the highway with 285/75/16's was brilliant. Then the Romerdrive imploded, as in completely shredded... being that they are a 10 minute drive from my house and I bought directly from them, I took it back and they rebuilt it. However, it still wasn't working correctly, so I refused to pay for the rebuild until they got it working properly. (They also told me that they found a parts on the bench after it was done, but it wasn't "crucial" to have it in. Really?) Sucks cause each time it comes in and out I'm paying to get it re+re + fluid)... So. I have it pulled, they refuse to touch it until the rebuild is payed, and I'm not giving them a dime until it's properly fixed. I'm done with it, I really don't want it spreading shrapnel into my transfer case again. They claim it was all because the unit can't handle the power of a stage 1chipped engine, however their website says it can.

I think the 1.3 transfer case and perhaps a higher 5th gear ratio is a way more reliable alternative.
 

Tomaco1

Well-known member
Currently you should be 2600 rpm at 70 mph. If this seems like it is screaming, it is you. 2600 rpm is not high. The 1.2 will take you to 2260 rpm which is fine if you have your engine set up to have enough power to pull that.

The question you need to answer is 1st gear. How do you feel with 1st gear now and will you be happy with it 16% higher?

I would like it if I could stay in first and second a bit longer actually, I’m terrible at this stuff, but I assume that’s what I’d get with a 1.2?
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
I drove my 300 Tdi Powered Series III 88 with an LT77 and 1:2 for about 15 years. No issues. Yes its was slow off the start but you said you did mostly road driving. I put a boost pin in the 300 Tdi and that changed everything. Drivability was massively improved Low end power improved considerably.

If you really want to do it right, keep the 1:4 and install a Global Roamerdrive. I have that in my Td5 110 CSW and its fantastic.

good luck
 

donb

Well-known member
its a one man job with a transmission jack and the lt230 factory style lift adapter

http://www.roverware.us/transfer-case-transmission-jack-adapter/
or just build it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/247514-lt230-jack-lifting-mount.html

without a trans jack two strong dudes can lift one into place by hand , having a driveshaft tool makes it easier

https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnt141_prop_shaft_socket_special_tool


A lift really isnt needed unless your truck is lowered. take the time to replace your mounts if they are toast

With the parking brake off one strong dude can press it up. I'm sure you would have no problem with it Napalm and probably have done it that way before ;)
 

expanse

Well-known member
I've had a 1.2 behind my 200 for 6 or so years. Complete pig in the hills but bugger moves on the flats. I'd go down to 1.4 if I were to do it again.
 

acheck

Well-known member
With the parking brake off one strong dude can press it up. I'm sure you would have no problem with it Napalm and probably have done it that way before ;)

yes, and to make it far easier you can remove the PTO cover and then the input gear. lift up and install the case with no spline engagement to fiddle with. then once the case is installed, refit the input gear and PTO cover.
 

Red90

Well-known member
With the parking brake off one strong dude can press it up. I'm sure you would have no problem with it Napalm and probably have done it that way before ;)

I use a strap around the box and lift from the center seat box access panel. It is much easier than flailing around underneath.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
yes, and to make it far easier you can remove the PTO cover and then the input gear. lift up and install the case with no spline engagement to fiddle with. then once the case is installed, refit the input gear and PTO cover.
alignment is what burns out my arms. Haven’t tried it this way before. Sounds much easier...
 
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