Brake line flaring tool

Andrew

Well-known member
It seems that figuring out the fittings is the challenging part to planning this out. Here's what I've ordered so far besides the Eastwood flaring tool, bender, and cutter.

Stainless tubing (open wholesale account or use promo code on their blog for discount):

It appears 4lifetimelines is owned by AGS according to this trademark filing info: https://trademarks.justia.com/878/24/4lifetimelines-87824382.html

Tubing straightener (looks identical to Eastwood version):

M10x1.0 male fitting for bubble flare (2 packs of 12. These look like maybe they are higher quality than the 4lifetimelines ones. I don't know.):

M12x1.0 male fitting for bubble flare (for ABS modulator and Defender 2.8i clutch slave cylinder):

I haven't yet found an M10x1.0 female inverted flare fitting in stainless. I emailed Classic Tube to see if they sell them. Here's a mild steel one. It can be ordered from most LR parts suppliers: https://www.bearmach.com/product/brake-hydraulic-parts-brbhbhpa/brake-pipe-union-3-16-metric-female-brake-pipe-unions-ba-0003/BA 0003

I'd like to make a new clutch pipe from the slave cylinder too. I found a used P38 diesel one on eBay UK (it's NLA new) that I'll use as a template unless it's in good enough shape to reuse. The fitting is different for the P38 clutch hose, so I'm going to see if I can make it fit a standard NAS Defender clutch hose. It appears the fitting is M11x1.25 inverted flare. Is that correct?

Another thing I need to figure out is that the Td5 & Puma have two different brake hoses at the rear. One with a male and female fitting and one with a male fitting on both ends (SHB101370 (male both ends) and SHB101430 (female plus male ends)). Do you know which is the right side and which is the left side?
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Skip the little metal clutch pipe and replace the entire clutch flex hose and pipe with the stainless braided one and do a dorman conversion..it's in the kit
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
It seems that figuring out the fittings is the challenging part to planning this out. Here's what I've ordered so far besides the Eastwood flaring tool, bender, and cutter.

Stainless tubing (open wholesale account or use promo code on their blog for discount):

It appears 4lifetimelines is owned by AGS according to this trademark filing info: https://trademarks.justia.com/878/24/4lifetimelines-87824382.html

Tubing straightener (looks identical to Eastwood version):

M10x1.0 male fitting for bubble flare (2 packs of 12. These look like maybe they are higher quality than the 4lifetimelines ones. I don't know.):

M12x1.0 male fitting for bubble flare (for ABS modulator and Defender 2.8i clutch slave cylinder):

I haven't yet found an M10x1.0 female inverted flare fitting in stainless. I emailed Classic Tube to see if they sell them. Here's a mild steel one. It can be ordered from most LR parts suppliers: https://www.bearmach.com/product/brake-hydraulic-parts-brbhbhpa/brake-pipe-union-3-16-metric-female-brake-pipe-unions-ba-0003/BA 0003

I'd like to make a new clutch pipe from the slave cylinder too. I found a used P38 diesel one on eBay UK (it's NLA new) that I'll use as a template unless it's in good enough shape to reuse. The fitting is different for the P38 clutch hose, so I'm going to see if I can make it fit a standard NAS Defender clutch hose. It appears the fitting is M11x1.25 inverted flare. Is that correct?

Another thing I need to figure out is that the Td5 & Puma have two different brake hoses at the rear. One with a male and female fitting and one with a male fitting on both ends (SHB101370 (male both ends) and SHB101430 (female plus male ends)). Do you know which is the right side and which is the left side?
One thing I would recommend you add to your list is a tubing straightener that you can use on sharp bends. The tubing straightener with the wheels only really works to straighten tubing that has been coiled, not bent.

I have one like this
E1577296-CBD5-44B4-886B-096AED5D123A.jpeg
 

Andrew

Well-known member
Skip the little metal clutch pipe and replace the entire clutch flex hose and pipe with the stainless braided one and do a dorman conversion..it's in the kit
Picture the Defender M52 & P38 clutch, not the Defender V8. The slave cylinder is on the lower right side of the bell housing. I have a custom braided hose on there now, but I don't like how it's routed because I have it going underneath and the exhaust goes directly below the slave cylinder. So I'm going with the P38 pipe that goes up and over. That way it won't go anywhere near the exhaust and it's too far of a distance for a hose also. This will be better. But I would like to be able to use an off-the-shelf clutch hose to make replacements easy. So I could change the fitting on the pipe to match the Defender hose or use an adapter. The P38 hose has a different style end.

Photo of P38 clutch pipe routing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274856182597

Defender V8 clutch hose: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/nrc2211_flex_hose_clutch_rrc_defender_discovery_i

P38 clutch hose: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR3344

It looks like there are AN adapters like this I could connect to the P38 pipe, but I don't know if there's an adapter I could connect to the Defender hose. I could put an adapter on both ends to use a generic -3 or -4 AN hose I guess.

Also buy a kinpex pliers wrench , so much better than line wrenches
What's the wrench for?
 

Andrew

Well-known member
One thing I would recommend you add to your list is a tubing straightener that you can use on sharp bends. The tubing straightener with the wheels only really works to straighten tubing that has been coiled, not bent.
What do you use it for? Is it for fixing bending mistakes?
 

Andrew

Well-known member
Knipex pliers wrench is for the brake nuts , you will never strip another
I've always used a normal open end wrench of the correct size. Never stripped one before. I've never thought of using a dedicated tool. That's cool.
 

Andrew

Well-known member
I found this forum post on defender2.net that lists which is the rear left and right hoses on a Puma (ABS) (Amazon shows the same). The left is SHB101430 and the right is SHB101370. It appears the Puma brake pipes only have 1 female fitting on them (to connect to the SHB101370 hose). The center pipes connect to female unions and the front hoses have female fittings to connect to male fittings on the pipes. I ordered the correct brackets for the front swivel pin housings. Classic Tube got back to me and they won't supply the fittings. They said to find them online. The only female stainless one I've found is in the UK here. But I'm not sure what the difference is between the female fittings with a flat end vs tapered. Is it for a different flare?
 
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I've always used a normal open end wrench of the correct size. Never stripped one before. I've never thought of using a dedicated tool. That's cool.
you will end up using them for everything, a life changing tool
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
That good? I’ve been debating.

I like vice grips but few other adjustable wrenches except on pipes…
 

evilfij

Well-known member
They work well. The can also be used as a mini press to straiten sheet metal. I find the 180mm model is the one I use (along with the giant one but that I use for plumbing).

Also Knipex cobra, forged wire strippers, and twin grip are worth the money. I’d get cobras first as they are the most useful. I have some in every vehicle and every tool set and tend to grab them for pretty much anything and everything. That and malco eagle grips (malco bought the old vise grip factory and they are the best locking pliers by far) are my favorite pliers.

The pliers wrench is handy if you don’t have the right wrench or socket or to hold the other end of a bolt/nut. I need to try them on brake line fittings. I use a six point deep socket to break the bleeder and the flare nut wrench on the lines now. Vastly superior to an adjustable wrench. Vastly, especially in not slipping.

Amazon.de is your friend for best prices on Knipex.
 

Andrew

Well-known member
Okay, so I just noticed the pipes for the ABS master cylinder to modulator/pump are 1/4" instead of 3/16". That makes sense that they are larger since they each split into 2 circuits. The clutch pipe is 1/4" also.

I also decided I like the tube nuts from 4lifetimelines. They are nice.
 
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
When I did this job I made it easy on myself and did premade as flex lines in the rear from a standard m10 t fitting. Took all of $75 and an hour
 

Andrew

Well-known member
It looks like the Swagelok tube benders are the way to go for stainless from reading various forums. Except they don't make a 3/16" version. It appears the 600 series Ridgid benders are basically knockoffs and they have a 3/16" version. That's model 603. The 1/4" version is model 604. They're made in China, so I thought I'd check AliExpress. They're on there. Reviewers say they're the real thing, but even if they're a knockoff of the knockoff I guess that's not so bad. Test Equipment Depot in the US has them for a little more.

 
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