Worried About Oil Pressure
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
I've done a bit of research to get a sense for cost, etc... considering this, and considering the fact that this seems to be a common occurrence with 4-cylinder Rovers, and considering worst case scenario, is this the type of thing that I should just learn to do in the garage, or should I leave the engine bearings and oil pump to the pros?
Also, how will I know what kind of bearings to order? (I'm bad at searching Rovers North for some reason, and they don't list 300Tdi bearings in the parts guide.)
Also, how will I know what kind of bearings to order? (I'm bad at searching Rovers North for some reason, and they don't list 300Tdi bearings in the parts guide.)
A suggestion, buy a cheap mechanics stethescope. I have one and use it often.
if you move down the block you should be able to hear if there is a knock and
isolate which cyl. In my experience cyl no 1 is the one that typically goes. I pushed a rod out of one of my 300's and it still ran on 3 cyls well enough to pull up on the car trailer for the ride home.
if you move down the block you should be able to hear if there is a knock and
isolate which cyl. In my experience cyl no 1 is the one that typically goes. I pushed a rod out of one of my 300's and it still ran on 3 cyls well enough to pull up on the car trailer for the ride home.
meatblanket
Well-known member
I really don't think that you would be achieving 16psi at idle if you are getting a rod knock. Do you still not know what viscosity oil are you using? If you are running Rotella T6 (5w40) those numbers aren't ridiculously low.
Put some T5 (15w40) in it when it's due for an oil change and I suspect your numbers will come up.
Put some T5 (15w40) in it when it's due for an oil change and I suspect your numbers will come up.
Here is an update on some careful observations of the oil pressure issue after a 15 minute drive.
It starts and idles and runs at about 40-42 when cold. As it got into the low-warm range (120 degrees) the oil pressure was at about 38 lbs while driving between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
When it got to 180 degrees for the first time, the psi stayed at about 35 degrees while driving.
However, at this point, every time I clutched and allowed the engine to come to idle, it would drop that running pressure down more and more. 33 psi, then 30 psi, then 28, till after going back to idle then back to running, it leveled off at about 25 psi while running and 18 while idling.
I am using 15w40 oil, and a bit of the Lucas stabilizer. It was 80 degrees ambient while driving.
I haven't had time to test anything related to oil pressure. Just hunting for what these symptoms might tell me.
It starts and idles and runs at about 40-42 when cold. As it got into the low-warm range (120 degrees) the oil pressure was at about 38 lbs while driving between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
When it got to 180 degrees for the first time, the psi stayed at about 35 degrees while driving.
However, at this point, every time I clutched and allowed the engine to come to idle, it would drop that running pressure down more and more. 33 psi, then 30 psi, then 28, till after going back to idle then back to running, it leveled off at about 25 psi while running and 18 while idling.
I am using 15w40 oil, and a bit of the Lucas stabilizer. It was 80 degrees ambient while driving.
I haven't had time to test anything related to oil pressure. Just hunting for what these symptoms might tell me.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
I had the same concerns with my engine long time ago. This thread is very helpful.
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/75698-oil-pressure-question/
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/75698-oil-pressure-question/
fwiw 18 psi @ idle with a warmed up engine is great.
did changing the vacuum pump solve your engine noise ?
did changing the vacuum pump solve your engine noise ?
meatblanket
Well-known member
I'm not sure it's anything to worry about. My psi when hot at idle is lower than yours (around 10-15) and when fully hot runs about 25 to 28 on the highway. That's with 5w40 Rotella T6, and verified with a mechanical gauge. It doesn't make any weird noises and has been running that way for at least 60,000 miles.
I was initially thinking "that seems low" and I put in some 15w40 Rotella T5. That brought it up a bit, but I later went back to the synthetic T6 as I thought it would better withstand the turbo heat and I wouldn't have to change it quite as often as conventional oil.